William Davidson

No, right where the nickel is is only a double frame. Before I bought it there was a plate 6-8' long put on the outside of each frame rail that is the bolt heads you see. The end of the trunnion stand can just be seen in the bottom right of the photo.

Here's a picture. That's a nickel where the frame has been spread by rust so it's pretty bad.

I can't imagine that the frame would ever break but the inspection station said that the DMV is cracking down on things like frame spread. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow. I am exploring options at this time.

I was just told that the double frame on my '86 DM688S is rusted too bad to pass inspection. The truck is a log truck so the middle of the frame near the loader has been oiled by leaks from the loader and looks like new but the area from just in front of the axles to behind the axles is spread by rust pretty badly. I'm figuring that my best bet is to look for another truck to put my loader and bunks on however there are plenty of shorter trucks like dump trucks but not many as long as is needed for a log truck. I know that trucks are stretched and shortened all the time so the know how and frame material is out there, but is it practical to either replace the frame from the middle to the rear or graft in the rear half of another truck? The truck is shabby but the drivetrain and suspension etc seems pretty solid. Thanks for any advice.

Name: Big Old Log Truck Date Added: Owner: William Davidson William Davidson

Thanks for all the replies. I've been using Napa Gold filters on both vehicles. I bought the oil in bulk from Bay Oil Company and I've used their products for years both engine oil and hydraulic oil. I have been wondering if the motor oil deteriorated from sitting since I've had that particular drum for a couple of years. I'm planning to switch to Rotella 10w30 for the winter and change back to 15w40 next summer. I plan to use the remainder of that old drum of engine oil for bar and chain oil. I can't afford to ruin any more engines!

The Cummins had an oil and filter change only about 500 miles before the problem so it wouldn't seem that soot would be the problem but who knows?

I've got an '85 DM688 and I was wondering if it was OK to run 10W-30 in the winter (or all year round). I've always run 15W40 in everything but a couple weeks ago my Dodge Cummins spun a bearing and when we drained the 15w40 it was like grease not oil and I suspect that is why the Cummins had trouble. I don't want to repeat this mishap with another engine. The temperatures are running +15 during the day and 10-15 below at night. Thanks for any advice.

You can check the block heater with a ohm meter. If there is no resistance the heater is shot. Also I'm having trouble with oil being too thick so it makes lots of resistance to cranking. I switched my skidder over to 10W-30 and it cranks a lot easier than with 15W-40.

Have you looked at the Surplus Center catalog? They have lots of hydraulic parts. They used to use mechanical diverters on tractor/loader/backhoes that switched the flow from the loader to the backhoe.

Good thanks. It definitely has Mack axles, I'll have to try it and see what happens. The truck seems well maintained so hopefully it works properly. I used to have a Volvo N-10 with T-ride and full lockers, I had one job that was uphill to the paved road. I'd load it and give it a nudge with the skidder to get going and it would push mud with the front axle. So far I'm impressed with how solid and well built this Mack is.

Thanks, I'm relieved not to have purchased something totally helpless.

Probably 3208 was less expensive. Refuelers didn't have to go far or fast.

I'm new here since I just purchased my first Mack. I have an '85 DM688s. When I got it home I noticed it doesn't have a power divider lock. Does Mack have some sort of automatic lockers or is this going to be helpless off road. I bought it to be a logging truck so traction is important.