JoeH

The sears by me was running Point of Sale computers from 1990 through their end. Sears management didn't have any vision for the company, ran it into the ground because they were afraid to fail. Wound up failing anyways!

That's a neat front suspension setup.

We have replaced several cams on those motors over the years, it pays to have a fleet of trucks, on road and retired, all with the same engine. Not sure if the cams are different between a 237 and 283, we haven't needed to scavenge our retired 237s yet for motor parts. I'm vaguely aware there's a couple different head bolt differences, not sure beyond that!

You'll need to ensure that the radiator is not attached to the firewall via support arms. And the hood stoppers on the firewall need to be rollers, not the donut style sometimes used. Radiator needs support rods that go diagonally to the shock absorber brackets on the frame. But air ride cabs are a beautiful thing. We bought an '88 RD690S last year that we're still fabricating the body for before putting into full-time service. We converted it to air ride cab mount,which is a must with a 20k steer axle.

I have an '88 Rd with 20k steer and only one gearbox; a 1980 DM686SX with 20k steer and one gearbox; and a 1995 RD with an 18k steer and one gearbox.

So yer sayin it's bar x 15 2.5 x 15 = 37.5

I do believe that's just an intake for cold starts.

What weight are you running? In general you fill tires up to what the door jam stickers say, not necessarily what the tires say. If you're always running empty on a hobby truck then yeah, cut the camelbacks down to 50-60 psi

In another 100 years there won't be a single Anthem left.

That's a heavy rig. Front steer isn't powered, is the 2nd steer a drive axle?

Those hoods have an identity crisis. They look like a blend of old style and new style R model contours. (I know they're DMs)

How many hours on the truck?

We just converted a 1988 RD we bought to air ride cab. Got all the parts from a junkyard 2001 RD. You need the exhaust stand tube that also serves as the cab mount; leveling valve, there's brackets on the inside of the frame rails for the shock absorbers, there's a plate that bolts to the underside of the cab at the rear that the air bags attach to. All the "soft" parts can be had through your dealer, you just need a VIN from the truck you pull the brackets out of. Also, earlier R models have rods that fixate the radiator to the firewall. Those need to be deleted and replaced with diagonal braces that bolt to the frame somewhere by the front axle shock absorbers. Also need to make sure the rubber hood stops on the firewall are converted to rollers. Muffler can't bolt to the cab, needs to bolt to the exhaust stand from the junkyard.

Your balls are bigger than mine.

I suspect it might, the R model has been used with engines from the same era as the B as well as the E7. Chassis Mount Charge Air Cooler might not fit though. Perhaps the R model firewall was altered for the E7, but I'm not sure. It's only a 1 liter displacement change.

My 283 whistles from the turbo, but I'm not sure the tip turbine makes any noise. Tip turbine is basically powered by wastegated turbo pressure. What conditions cause the air hiss? Under full load? Partial load? Certain rpms?

White b models look very sharp.

The endt676 also hit its power band around 1000-1200 rpms depending on which fuel pump you had. It makes 90%+ power from 1000-1200 all the way to the governor at 2100. Going from that to an engine that never really felt like it kicked into any sort of a power and was an adjustment.

I went from ENDT676 motors with 2 stick transmissions to an e7-350 with an 8LL about 6 years ago. Took me a couple years to realize everything was just fine on the e7, it's just a different motor with different pulling characteristics. It moves, but it certainly doesn't have the same feel as our old 1979 R model. Don't know what you were used to before this truck. How much pressure is your turbo generating? The E7s are also a lower rpm motor. My ENDT676 motors you wind up to 2100+ before shifting, but the E7 usually gets shifted between 1700-1800 rpms.

It would suck to have to jack the truck up higher to get the trans out when you already have the engine resting on blocks.

Are you having problems with boost? If the truck is making power all the way to the governed rpm and can hold full power there then you're probably just fine as is.

Judging by those tires in the picture I think he's got that covered already!

Been a while since I've looked at cone type axle caps, I think the end is either pressed or welded in. The ends don't do much work.

My 88 RD690S front spring hangers are taller than my 1995 RD688S. '88 has 20k front with 4 leaves, 44k rears & lift axle. 95 has 18k front with 16 leaves, 44k rears & lift axle. Different front tires, but the '88 sits roughly 6 inches taller at the front.

If they're coming loose then they're not tight enough. You could replace the studs and nuts.