br549

I have seen where people adjust free pedal on the clutch with the outside adjustment that is for the clutch brake adjustment and it will and after several adjustment that way the clutch fork will start hitting the pressure plate when mashing the pedal all the way down. Look inside the bell housing hole and see if it is hitting when mashing the pedal all the way down, you should be able to see a mark where it is rubbing. If it is you can set the clutch brake with the outside linkage and put free travel in by winding the clutch up on the inside adjustment on the pressure plate and it will move the throw out bearing back out away from the pressure plate.

It's rare but I have seen the main shaft twist and lock it in gear and the fork gets broken trying to get out of gear. If you pull the shift cap and the fork is broke make sure you take a long bar or screwdriver and make sure the slider gear will come out and slide on the main shaft

If all I could afford is $20-$25,000 I would spend it on my 99 model. Oil leaks should be no problem to repair, remack diff and maybe even a remack engine. I know some 2008 that have spent $35,000 on just the engine, along with continued problems. If I was buying another truck it would be NEW with extended warranty. The day of buying used truck is not like it was 20 years ago, too much stuff to go wrong.

Water helps keep oil cooled down, you say you don't hear fan kick in. From what I have seen if it has the Horton air fan & if you can turn it with the engine off it is slipping and not turning at full speed. On the ones I have seen it takes air to release it and should be locked in with the truck turned off. If the fan is not slipping there is a screen in the bottom radiator hose between the transmission cooler that goes into the oil cooler. Ck and make sure it is not stopped up.

Like black dog said oil can be coming from the little pin hole in the puff limit cylinder as the air goes in and out if your air system has oil in it. There is a o-ring around the housing that let it turn seal off the oil. I have taken and clean the area real good after putting the cylinder back in and putting rubber glue around it and letting it dry real good before running it and usually works. Other than that you must remove pump to replace.

I don't think it matters.

If I remember right some of the new basic 2 valve engines we bought had the Delta wall bearings in them from the factory in the 80's, maybe this truck had a new basic engine put in it.

Does it put the yellow code light on? Does it do it in cruise control, if not it could be fuel pedal. Need to find code first.

It was not on a V-8 mack, I think it might have been on the first E6 4 valve engines, I don't think it came from mack that way but people were doing it on their own, I remember seeing 3 or 4 trucks done that way.

What kind of engine do you have? At one time years ago and I cant remember when people were putting pop rivets in the rocker arm at the end of the slipper oil hole to keep oil from coming out, I think it was to cut down on oil around valve guides before valve guide seals, pull your valve cover and check the oil holes and see if any pop rivets are in your's, I seen several engines back in the day.

The leaking return line between the heads is probally your problem, chang the taper rubber sleeves first and try it, plus ck the push on return lines on the front of head to pump.

If memory holds correct, when we would buy an new dynatard switch for the 2 valves it always came with a spacer ring about 1/8" thick, every truck we pulled apart did not have the spacer ring in it. It seem like we had found some under the solenoids when they wasn't working good and we took them out and they worked better. I assume some of the first ones used, but I never seen one that did, it came with a new one and I guessed people just put it in there. We found a lot of solenoids that would come loose where they thread into the rocker arm. You might try a valve adjustment. It's doubtful but you might ck and see if mack still offer's mack remack dynatard rocker arm for the engine.

MACK trucks are gone other than by name. With the new cab from Volvo there is not much left. I don't see much difference between a Mack and a Volvo now, If they wanted to bring Mack engineering and design and let them build back a Real Mack truck, otherwise when the new cab comes just put the Volvo name on and change the name on the rear ends and manual transmission to Volvo brand. This has been a slow death for Mack.

Turckster one more question. Checking the price of the J44514B camshaft aligment tool and it is over 1500.00. Only have 2 MP engines running and rest are E tech's. Planning on getting out of trucking at the end of year with new electronic logging coming on and trucks getting old, a good time quit. We replaced the head off the other truck a couple of years ago and we pulled the camshaft out with the gear on and marked the teeth and put it back in the same place and checked gear play and it was ok. If we mark the gears and put the gear back on the new cam in the same place with engine on tdc will it work? What is the purpose of this tool, does it do fine timming ? I found SB 213-061 and it shows we have early exhaust, inlet, and injector rocker arms and should be replaced. Thanks

Turckster On the Etech and e7 we allways replaced cam and all lifters. Under warranty mack don't replace all rollers with a new camshaft? This is the first camshaft we put in an MP8 engine. The cam and the exhaust roller are all chewed up on #1 exhaust, if under warranty mack don't replace all it must be acceptable. Thanks

Got a MP8 exhaust roller and camshaft on #1 cylinder, camshaft will have to be replaced, should you replace all 24 roller rocker arms or just the one, mack parts said rollers not replacable. Tiny bits of metal around #1 where the cam roller ate into the camshaft. Should rod and main bearings be checked or will the filters catch that. Thanks

Wonder what the gross weight is and how the bridge law work's on that?

Lighting bolt been on for a while, driver says loose power. Active codes MID 128 PPID 270 FMI 9, MID SID 27 FMI 9, MID 128 PSID 232 FMI, all 255 times. Inactive code MID 128 SID 27 FMI 2, 255 times. Could this be caused by 1 problem, which sould look at first. Light stays on all time. Is the Is the ppid 270 the last sensor in the exhaust pipe? Thanks This is a GU713

I know who took a CH road tractor with 12000 lb axle and made a log truck about 3 years ago and put the wide tires and wheel on it and has not had any problems so far

The MACK truck name may stay but the true American design "MACK" truck is almost gone. Component by Component it is being replaced by Volvo design. One of our driver was eating breakfast at a truck stop in Pa and a Mack truck engineer sat down next to him in 2003 and told him Mack had no say in anything anymore and the Mack engineering would disappear and he was right. Newbe's might not think so but older Mack people know, So Sad

Can you post a picture of it, I got 2 or 3 factory BW valves that fit the F & R models in the 60's but not sure about B models.

There is an adjustment bolt and nut on the injection pump.. If I remember it right, take and pull the fuel lever to the front on the pump and you will see a bolt that that lever comes back against when it comes back to idle. I think the head of the bolt is an 8mm wrench and under the pump it take a 10mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and back it off. then turn the 8mm bolt head counter clockwise to raise the idle back up, it should idle on 650 rpm. After setting it if you have a jake brake you might have to reset the pump switch if it don't hit the switch good.

If low on turbo pressure check the intake manifold, that old steel type intake manifold was bad about cracking in the seam where the top half and bottom went together.

The 1996 engine should be a VMAC 1 or 2, and the 2001 should have been a VMAC, Like GreenGiant2 said you need to go with the harness in the old cab.

We put them in with a bottom rubber spring pad and a small sledge hammer. You could put in freeze and they go in easier. I would want them to be bottom out before the silicone set's up. I think you need a bigger hammer.