br549

Pull vavle covers and check the big pipe plugs on top of the heads. You can see signs of crusted antifreeze around them if they are leaking. If they are pull and put pipe thread sealer around or rubber silicone and re install. I would also check oil cooler too. We have seen it leak around the big o ring on the end, we had one that would not show under pressure, put it back on and pulled the oil pan and showed no leaks, finally we replaced the oil cooler and it cured it. Happy hunting.

The problem with the fuel lines in my opinion were cheap junk. Look at the lines on earlier e tech engines that never gave problems, then they have a high heat engine under the hood with the egr system and put a tonka toy injector line on it. Later they beef the line back up and solved the problem. I had one truck down in Alabama that had a fuel leak on and they put a fuel line on it and it still leak so they pull the injector and put o-ring on it and it still leak. They replaced the injector and that fixed it, I paid for 3 injector lines because they would not reuse it. That is BS.

We had a 2005 with the AC 427 engine, only 1 turbo around 800,000 miles replaced. Just changed it when exhaust manifold gaskets starting leaking, don't like to run things till they blow up. Sold truck at 1,200,000. We always used the factory rebuilt turbos thru mack and never had problems. The turbo auctuator valve on the left side would leak air and was replaced a couple of times. We did have some wiring connectors problems. The one at the charge air pipe gave problems till we cut the wires and solder them straight and tie them down good, when the fan would kick in it would blow wires around a lot. I would buy a new AC engine over a MP8 any day, to many injector cups on mp8 engine plus all the emission junk. That truck was more reliable then MP98 we had.

You should check your flywheel depth to make sure it has not been surfaced to much, I can't remember the depth it's in a bulletin. When they surface the flywheel we have seen them come back and leave a ledge against where the pressure plate bolts in and the clutch will not bolt down flat. there is a service bulletin about this. The same machine shop has been turning our flywheel for 30 years but we got one back 2 weeks ago and notice it was not machine all the way out and called them and said they had a new man doing it now. We sent it back to fix it. It only about 1/16 ledge but the pressure plate will not bolt down flat. You should be able to check this in the truck just turn the engine where you can see the pressure plate mounting bolts and make sure it is flat to mating surface. In the past when we have a vibration in the engine sitting still we remove belt and see if it disappears. We had one years ago you could look at the pressure plate with the engine at high rpm and see it wobbling, Have seen where the bearing race have been left out on the main shaft on the mack transmissions inside the input shaft. Have also seen the bushing missing on input shaft on eaton transmission.

Pull the turbo hose off at the turbo and install a plug, you can buy them or make one with 2 spuds one for air gauge and one for air pressure and pressure the whole system, air cooler, manifold gaskets and air compressor tube and get the system up to 25 or 30lbs and see if you hear it. I had one that was making a noise only under boost and it was where we had pull the hose off of the charge cooler and the cooler had a rough seam in it and it leak and made noise. We buffed the seam back smooth and it took care of it, that way you should eliminate the boost pressure system. you should be able to see signs of the exhaust manifold leaking exhaust, as one said on mp engine we have spray water around exhaust while idling but the water don't seem to work good on E7 engine. To me if it appears and disappears with 25lbs and quits when letting off you will probably fine a small leak on pressure side of the system.

I would try a remack water pump thru mack ordered by the by the truck vin with the pulley already installed. Make sure it has the same type of air fan it came with when it was made I remember some used a real thin spacer between the pulley and air fan, but it might have been a kysor air fan. Give the vin to mack dealer a see how it came from factory.

Is this a E-Tech engine or E-7? Are you using the old pulley on the water pump? If so try a remack w/pump with the pulley already on it. If they are out a few thousand they will break the bolts out at high rpm. This is on an E-Tech engine

Is that a AI or AC engine. Have you had the truck since it was new. Has it every had an oil cooler go bad? I have seen this happen were an oil cooler goes out and does not get clean out good. The oil will go to the Top, if you are not sure about the history of the truck I would pull both of the tanks off and clean them out good and reinstall and watch them and see if they get oil in them again. If you know the history of the truck it could be the oil cooler seeping, I have also seen where the transmission cooler seeps into the system but it usually is clean oil versus a gray or black tint like engine oil.

just bought a pair about 2 weeks ago for a 1997 model, I think they are the same for that year model, Check here at Watts Mack or any Mack dealer.

Took truck down the road and check codes and it showed spn3556 fmi3, fmi4, fmi5 turned truck off and started back again and it only showed fmi4 Is this the 7th injector or is this the DEF doser and is there any way to check it out with a ohmmeter?

Mackpro said it might be dpf face plugged, my question is it we done a sitting regen and it completed, I didn't think it would regen if it was face plugged? It is more like when you shift gears it trails black smoke for about 5 seconds till the turbo pressure comes up and the power seems alright. it has 37lbs of turbo pressure. No codes when test driving after turbo installed. could it be the the egr valve, venture tube? Thanks

When it regen after the turbo was put on it was showing soot level at 142%, after the regen soot level was 0%. On the regen the exhaust inlet temp was 615, the exhaust after catalic temp was 1050, the exhaust dpf outlet was 1150. after treatment injectior was 15%. dfp pressure was .30 would it still be face plugged?

Truck came in with active code mid128 sid27 fmi7 and mid 128 pid411 fmi7. When pulled it into garage pid 411 went inactive. Check out VTG and would not go to full or closed position. When turning the key on it showed bad at start up. Truck has 400,000 miles and original turbo so I just put a complete turbo on it. Cleared codes active codes gone. Trucked warmed up and hook up to empty flatbed. When full throttle from 1200-1400 rpm the truck pours out black smoke and clears up at about 1600 rpm, let off and get back into it and it pours smoke again. Regen light started flashing when got back. No codes in system. Did a sitting regen and it was completed ok. Had new exhaust manifold about a year ago and shows no leaks. Is it possible intake manifold leaking, I ran about 20 miles and no codes. Thanks

install a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure.

The exhaust should be the one to the front of truck. intake .016 exhaust .024

That looks like it will work on a old 2 valve where the injector is on the outside of the valve cover with the one that is on it in the picture. remove that one. The other ones is what you use, one is fine thread and I think that one is the one you use on the E tech engine, it should be the same thread as the threads on the injector hold down nut you take out of the head. The other one that is coarse thread was the early E-7 or E6 injector hold down nut.

It looks like it has been welded on the right side, I would just weld the left side if you can't find one.

When pulling off of E6 4 valve engines in the 80's some type of sealant was used on the head gaskets that stuck like cement from the factory. I think it was the E6 but it could have been the early E7 engines. At the time we asked the District service manger and he said they didn't use anything. On a lot of the engine's when we removed the heads they were stuck, we would put a 6 ft bar in and could not get the Heads to come loose. We finally would spray either in the engine and spin the motor over and they would pop loose. It would split the gasket a part and leave gasket material on both head and block. They were a mess to clean up. We have a old E6 with a lot of wear on the block and would like to try it instead of pulling the block and see it will hold. Thanks

T200-300 transmission?

acc relay is under the ash tray on r and dm models, on ch models they are in the passenger side panel where the fuse box and relays are.

2 quarts a week= $6.00 oil, Overhaul =$10,000-15,000 dollars, don't know how many miles you run a week, but that's not much oil. I had a 2005 AC427 that used 2 quarts of oil a week at about the same mileage and sold it at 1285000 miles on it and it uses about 4 quarts a week, had no other problems with the motor and I figured oil is a lot cheaper. It ran about 2500 miles a week. The guy that bought it now has 1375000 miles on it and still runs good. We did drop the pan and put rod and main bearings in it at 750000 miles. Like Pro said, find the heating problem. We had the electric controlled fan on ours and it started heating up and the fan was not kicking in. When it is running hot you should be able to hear the fan kick it.

If all you want to do is read active codes you can turn the cruise switch off and hold the acc/dec rocker switch down for a few seconds and let off and the light will start blinking a 2 digit code out and ck the code numbers to get the active code , if you fix the problem the light will go off and does not have to be reset, you cannot pull out inactive codes only active codes when the light stays on. You can check it out how it works by unplug your low water sensor or the Tach sensor on the flywheel and the low water sensor should put a code 17 when you blink it out. The flywheel sensor will put a 2 digit code out but I cannot remember it.

2008 CXU code goes on and off on computer, when on it shows 128 sid 27 fmi 7 active, when checking the codes by pushing the dash, but not active in the computer, when light goes out shows inactive in dash. I left out PSID 204

To me Mack has been gone since 2008, Volvo MP8 engine you couldn't keep on the road and out of the shop. Every month broke down somewhere, Jackson, Tn down 2 days. AZ down 1 Week. Ca. down 3 days. Ok, down 4 days. on and on, not dependable. All in 1 year. 2000 Vision 1,600000 miles only broke down 1 time in Mississippi and had to stay over night for a injector line. We had good service with E-6, E-7 Vmac 1, best mack engine made, and E-tech. It's only turning into a Volvo with a bulldog on the hood, why keep it.

you can get a o-ring kit from mack to fix it. It does take a tamper torx with a hole in the center.