br549

The truck has 950,000 miles on it, new egr cooler, egr valve, turbo pressure relief valve in intake manifold. It started popping and a puff of black smoke out of exhaust pipe maybe 5 or 6 times in a 2000 mile trip, no set pattern cold, hot , on a pull or just cruising down the road loaded or empty. Egr cooler was put on 4 months ago. Replaced egr valve 3 months ago. Replace egr valve 2 weeks ago thought it might be sticking but still does it, it does not put lighting bolt or a code when it does it. The next week it went 400 miles before it done it and did it about 4 times after that. This week it did it about 50 times, He thought it was going to quit in Houston and than it quit doing it till he got to Jackson, MS. Also I had replace fuel supply pump when it started doing this because it had 600,000 miles on it but it was showing good fuel pressure. Has anybody had any problems like this? I was thinking injectors, but any injector I have seen before when they gave problems the did it all the time. It got the power leash engine brake on it, I think maybe it is coming on maybe 1 cylinder for 1 second causing it to pop? It is driving me crazy any suggestions? I've drove it 200 miles myself and can't get it to do it. The truck runs about 2200 miles a week. Thanks

roadranger or mack transmission, did the speedometer worked right before and this just started,

first alt on truck got 425000 miles on it, in the next year put 4 rebuilts on it all over the country, new only for me now.

If the 2 people on the back of the truck step off I bet it would have got stuck lol

I had similar problem on 95 rd model, it would go and come, replaced low water sensor, module and buzzer. finally traced the low water harness from the tank around the engine it went to the right side along the top of the injection pump, the wiring harness was attached with rubber metal clips, the wire had worn threw and would ground out wire at random time while driving, give me a fit, pull of grommet and check for bare wire. Also had the same thing happen on left side of engine for oil where harness hooks to block after years of vibration the rubber wears downs and causes to short out. hope this helps

we had same problem on truck, been a while but there is a double shuttle valve around the back of the cab in the frame, it has a shuttle valve in it that sticks. trace the supply line from the valve it should go to the double shuttle valve. I think it feeds air from two tanks and it get stuck on one side and can't get enought volume. If i remember right it is about 4" long, air line in each end and air line in the middle supplies air to the parking brake valve.

Fuses are in the glove box door in front of passenger seat on the dash, the big screwdriver slot. I dont think truck would be running if they were blowed, We did have R model With the VECU located in behind the panel in the passenger side under dash get water in the wire plugins, all the terminal were green and box had water in it, and would randomly quit, had to replace it, they had problem with water leaking in. When mounting it back you can turn it upside down to keep it from getting in it.

Is the computer light coming on to or just the red lite? The low water sensor in the top tank will shut it down if low or bad sensor if computer is set to shut down. the red light is usually for low water, high water temperature or low oil pressure. To read code with cruise switch the malfunction lite must be on, turn the cruise off and push the the set button for 2 or 3 seconds and let off, the code will start flashing a 2 digit code with a second break in flash for the second digit. Need to count the code to see what the problem is. 17 is low water or sensor and wire problem, 22 or 23 cant remember for sure is oil pressure, try to get code and post it, If it is idling and the computer is set to idle for a set period of time 2,3,5, minutes the red light will come on without the computer light and the engine will quit, that will have to be changed with hook up to the computer. some people set low minutes in computer so truck dont idle all the time.

97 model should have flat type fire ring, i think it was sometime in 93 that used the step fire ring. If you have a crane i remove hoses rocker arms all connections and pull the heads together with the manifolds left on, then put back on and torque 1 bolt on front and rear head at a time by the bolt pattern, its alot quicker not having to take all the manifold and injectors lines loose.

My old e7 engine heads torqued at 220 lbs. i did it with a 1/2 torque wrench, what does all this angle equal too, 250,275,300lbs?? Will the 1/2 angle meter hold up and not break off then i tighten the head bolts or do i need to get a 3/4 one?

I had missing on #4 cylinder, intake valve was high, pulled head and valve problem had head fixed and putting it back on book says to torque head bolt to 48lbs and angle torque 120 degree and again 90 degree. I have a 1/2 inch angle torque manul guage, will that work or is there a foot pound torque for the head bolts<