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Bought a new REMACK MP 8 engine in early 2015 4 months and 30,000 miles later idler gear went out, It's sad to say but it' hard to make any money with MP-8 engine, E7 and E Tech Engine were reliable and dependable engines. I had been holding off about buying some New Macks when the plant shut down late last year, been hauling there for 54 years, with the way new trucks are it was a easy decision to sell off all of out trucks and trailers and exit the trucking business. No Trucks, No Drivers, No Problems!

Like Terry said, we always cut the old frame and add on to the new frame in the middle of the trunnion so it had weld plus 4 drilled body bolts on the old and new frame, It will never give any future problem.

That model should not be a mp engine. Did you check the housing where the water pump fit into for pitting and erosion, that can cause it. I had one truck drove me crazy but it was an earlier model that had an air cut off heater valve for the sleeper. The water was cut off during the summer and when we cut it back on for winter it leak air in the coolant system, it also did not heat up. If you have a sleeper you might want to ck and see if you have a air line at the sleeper cut off. These were control by 12 volt wire over air valve.

I would keep driving and checking with the heat gun. I don't think you will damage the engine at 230 degree unless it is pushing water out. If you have antifreeze in it and a 10lb pressures cap it has to go higher, cant remember for sure something around 250 to boil. If it has a viscous clutch fan on it. setting still I would cover the radiator with cardboard and cut a small hole in the middle to let air to the thermostat on the clutch fan and run the motor at high rpm and the clutch fan should kick in around 200 degree. You will know if it kicks in it will start blowing air real hard and make a lot of noise. If you listen you should be able to hear it kick in while driving it with the change of sound it makes when it kicks in.

The thermostat is where the top radiator connects to the water manifold and it goes in the square housing. That water manifold runs to the back of the engine with a hose that connects the front water manifold to the back manifold. The factory temperature sending unit is in the back manifold at the end of #6 cylinder. The one that you can see on the side is the temperature sending unit. The one on the very end is for the engine alarm if it has one. The heat gun can be bought at northern tool, harbor freight or any auto parts. When we would put a mechanical gauge in we would put in in the back water manifold. Maybe some body can post a picture that show's where it is.

The sending unit for the electrical gauge in the cab is beside the round knob for the heater. If the mechanical unit in got a short end on it you could take it out and put it there. Some of the mechanical has a long sending unit end and will hit in the water manifold before it gets tight. If the is a sending unit at the end of the manifold , it is for high water temperature you could take it out and put it there. I would not put it in the top of the radiator tank. There is some plugs in the water manifold behind where the top radiator goes but I can't remember what size it is but if it would fit that would work. It needs to go in the water manifold. If you drain the water out be sure you bleed the air out at the back of the water manifold especially if it don't take all the water back they can get a air lock in them.

My antique machine show's RD822SX001100 VIN 1M2P193Y7FA001100 does it match your VIN? This one has a 200" wheel base. It also say Build Date is 4/25l85

A lot of Mack in that year had a red light come on for a few seconds when starting up for low oil pressure, and high water temperature and low water, does it have one? The high water alarm would come on around 210 and some were at 220 degree. If it has one for the high temperature, it is a sending unit at the back end of the water manifold, the one on the side at the back is the temperature gauge. I would buy a cheap pistol heat gun for about forty dollars and check and see if the temperature matches the gauge. 230 degree is to hot. Can you hear if the clutch fan kicking in, they usually kick in around 200 degree.

On the top picture the line from the brake release is just blowing air into the manifold, which is wrong and it will not work. It should go into the supply port. If I remember right on trucks with a mack transmission they had a 3rd line coming from the transmission tor put air on the valve to cut the power down when in lo lo gear. Clean the other valve off and see if you can see if the ports are marked or move the line from the brake and move it into one of the end port and try it.

Have seen a couple where the fuel pedal cause it to stumble but usually you can mess with the pedal with foot side to side and make it cut out or stumble while driving it, does it do it with the cruise control?

Done several this way using 3 or 4 12 volt batteries, works great.

The 2MO457P3 is a 24 volt. 2MO457M is12 volt round incandescent. The 2mo457M2 is a 12 volt round Halogen. The 2MO 457p3 notes: This part is a non-stocking item due to low activity. Under certain circumstances this item may be ordered on a ship direct basis. The Mack Dealer assumes responsibility for min buy, collect freight, non-cancellable and not eligible for return. [See Parts Managers Manual]. Glad I went back and looked, I did not see the 457P3 being 24 volt. 12 volts should be available.

It's a shame the new mega dealers and parts guys are only interested in $$ and won't spend energy to find anything. Bucket housing 32MO41M Bezel 116QS465P2 headlight assy 2MO457M3. It will take 2 each. These numbers might go to a Volvo world # but the dealer should be able to do that. The headlight assy showed to be a slow item and non returnable.

recheck valve adjustment. About 25 years ago a guy called me and said he just rebuilt his E6300 engine and could not get it running. While the heads off they removed the fuel pump and put the side pan gaskets on. They pulled the truck up the road with a chain for a mile or two and it would not start but had white smoke. I went there and ck the timming and it was timed about 25 degree fast. Pulled the pump and they had missed the pin on the fiber gear by 2 notches. If right the pump will go on flush to the block. They said they use the bolt to pull the pump to block. We re timed the pump to motor and it cranked right up, but the motor had a lot of blow by and puffing real bad with the oil cap off. Pull the heads off and all 6 pistons were melted off. It had done that without the motor running while they were pulling it. Ck your valves but also make sure the timing is set right.

Just seen the year model, You might not have that setup. I might have the ground relay on front of cab, still ck all the grame to cab grounds. there is additional ground wire in the glove box on passenger side. Would't think that many gauges would have corrosion on the plug in pins in the dash but did have one where the voltmeter gauge was reading low and pull the gauge and sand paper the terminals and put back in and corrected the problem. Is this the new style dash or the old flat style dash.

Ck and clean the ground from the engine, alternator to frame. What year model is this. Does you have the two 12 post junction box on the drivers side firewall? I have seen a lot of gauges be off when the ground wire on the bottom terminal is loose, that is the ground wire to cab. clean good and trace the wire back to frame and clean too. Sometimes I would run a new short wire between the inside and outside junction strip at the bottom. Usually when these wires are loose when you mash the clutch pedal in and out you can see the gauges move a little bit. This sounds like a ground problem.

17 is low water, not sure but 22 could be oil pressure. Check your accessory relay in the glove box on the passenger side, it looks like a starter relay, 2 big post and 2 little post. One big wire stays hot and the key switch turns it on. Easy to check with a test light.

Is that a 2 valve or 4 valve engine, did you have the injection pump off? Is it a Robert bosch pump or a American bosch {United techonolgy} pump. If pump has been off it could be out 180 degree out on the wrong stroke. Also make sure valves have been adjusted on the right stroke.

Does it have an air control fan or a automatic fluid control fan on it? If air control I think that model had a trinary switch [3 pole] that was mounted on the drier and when the pressure got high it would kick the fan in. If it has a fluid automatic it sense the air temperature in front of the fan and kicks in automatic, they used a binary switch [2 pole] on the drier. Day cab should be 3lbs. Either system the switch should cut off when pressure gets to high. Run the truck at a higher RPM if it has a automatic fan and see if that helps any. On the air fan unplug it and see if it stays kicked in all the time and see if pressure goes down. Sounds like every thing has been replaced. I don't know if it would cause it but make sure the drier is installed in the right direction, in & out.

CH should hold 3lb for a day cab and 3.5 lbs for a sleeper cab. Is the engine fan kicking in, it keeps the pressure down by cooling the con denser. The high pressure switch should cut the compressor off before the pressure get too high to blow off the drier valve.

Have you pulled off the center panel where the park brake valves are and listen inside the dash for leaks and I buy the stuff where kids blow bubbles with at Walmart and put in a spray bottle. Also pull panel under the foot valve and ck for leakage. If like me find somebody young to listen.

I remember that on some of the midliner truck around that year model they had a timming advance that worked off of oil pressure that advance the timming and they would be hard to start and smoke white smoke, I can't remember for sure, I will check on it when I get to work tomorrow.

Ditto on what steeler said, does the malfunction light come on when the key is turned on and than go off, I' have seen a lot where the bulb has been taken out or the bulb socket fall out of the housing. Ck your fuel pressure, the fuel supply pumps are bad about fiber gear slipping on the shaft.

If all pressure are running good, I would ck and make sure the heater cut off valve is working right. If its got the manual water valve and the water manifold, cut if off. Pull the duct from the fan motor to the control box and make sure the core is not filled up with dirt. On R models if in dump truck and dirty environment we unplug the outside vent to keep if from pulling in so much dirt into the core. Also ck and make sure the thermostat is no cutting off the compressor to early. Most of the time we find the core stopped up with dirt.

The only solo clutch I had was in a 2000 CX613, came in it new. Replaced clutch at 1,300000 miles no complaints, Good drivers has more to do with life of clutch. Have seen them freeze up and will not adjust. Years ago there was a service bulletin on how to free the adjustment up by taking wd-40 and spraying it into some holes in the pressure plate. About 2 months ago we had one froze up and could not find the bulletin to see where to spray it. I called Eaton Clutch trouble hot line and they said they did not recommend it any more. Personally I don't think they knew how to do it. As the older people retire a lot of knowledge goes to.