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  1. I'm just trying to drop the mack carrier into the housing, it stops under it own weight with around 3/8 let before it sits flush. I can pull it down with mounting bolts, is that normal for it to have to be pulled down flush, and about what should the bolts holding down the carriere be torqued to
  2. yeah mine was working on pass to flash too did notice that high beams and drl module pull power from breaker #15 but im not sure which one it even is
  3. So it all starts as everything is working just fine in on a daily trip up the river for a rounder of 680km, and everything is working just fine until one morning at 3am when i go to leave the yard and i dont have any headlights at all daytime running lights wont come on , no low beams at all , and nothing on the high beams, so the first thing i did was put a jumper wire across the headlight switch sockects , thinking maybe a switch packed it in ,, nothing,, in the glove box with a wiring diagram that i do have shows me that power relay 4 feeds the rack of breakers that i should be checking, it was either #2 or #3 that was for the low beams so i swapped them out for know working breakers , but nothing changed, I did some under hood checking and did find that there was actually power going to the low beams when the head light switch was on and in low beam but nothing on high beam, ran my ground from the frame when doing that check so ill have to check that ground coming from the bonnet to the frame Other thing ive done was to check for power coming to the drl module and couldnt find any , could be a headlight relay but i need some kind of reference of which one it is , like to actually know what all these relays are for so i can check a little deeper so anyone got a wiring diagram to show the relay assignments or any advice on where to look a little deeper, its just funny that this thing has been working just perfect right up to this moment and now this happens Thanks Don
  4. Ok now ill tell you the rest of the story and what i did to fix it So im starting into a long weekend and know im not going to have much time to be finding parts so while im at the alternator rebuilder , he tells me to try re energize the alternator almost for sure it will pick up the voltage, so i pick up a new regulator figuring if the re energize doesnt work then i got plan b, Re energized and still no difference put in the new regulator no difference, panic sets in, as i cant have this thing shutting down on me with a load of asphalt on, so my last bit of time before everything is shut down for the weekend i go out and buy a new alternator and am confident my problems are over new alternator installed and guess what same condition, so im thinking wtf got to be the batteries yank all the batteries out for a fluid level check and a good cleaning , load testing them with a 100 amp load shows them to hold it pretty good but the voltage seems low so i throw them on a charger left charging while i replaced some o-rings in my fan hub like all day these are 13 month old exide 925 cca batteries they all charged up until they kicked out the charger and i checked them for voltage again the charger says the batteries are at 60% so im thinking again wtf i reach for the hydrometer and check all these 4 batteries and find 1 cell out of the whole works barely floats in the white and all the rest are in the top of the red So now im on the hunt for 4 batteries where i bought them only offers a 12 month warranty from purchase time even though exide offers a 18 month replacement so no warranty guess ill deal somewhere else then and i pick up 4 1000 cca and plug them back in figuring problem solved Wrong new alternator new batteries same problem and its late monday and i work in the morning so now really wtf So there is something simple wrong here all 3 main cab chassis, frame grounds are cleaned up so i just grab a set of jumper cables and run from pos on alternator to pos battery no change go from negative on alt to neg battery and shazam volt meter picks up to 14v and everything seems perfect So i follow the alt ground it crosses over to the night switch (i believe hard to see but looks most probable) the night switch switches off the grounds all the batt grounds one the one side , and neg grounds to starter, so i just added a new ground for now from the alt to battery ground that pretty much by passes the night switch now Been nearly a month now and its perfect , volt meter sits on 14 - 14.1 my temp gauge and oil temp gauge dropped down to its normal operating range when i have free time ill jump across the night switch and remove my new ground to be sure of my assumptions Im thinking when i put in those batteries 14 months ago it was because i had one battery short out and maybe it helped fry out the night switch, or maybe when i was trying to jump it with my diesel pick up , and burning a post off the battery and taking out the alternator in it too because of the short, why the night switch is failing I dont know but i do know the alt to batt ground added fixed everything up how it kept going that long who knows had to be doing some kind of charging Thanks everyone for the replies
  5. I noticed awhile back that i had a voltmeter gauge with a reading of about 10.5-11 volts , I had my alternator rebuilt recently so I thought maybe the alternator was the fault. I took it off and had it checked, but it was all good. So i just bought a new gauge to put in , and it also always hovers in about the same range, hardly ever reaching over 12 volts, a check with a volt meter on the CB power posts shows there to be 12.3 + volts when the volt meter in the dash reads in the 11 range. The second thing going on is that my water temp and oil temp gauges are reading higher than they normally do also. My fan only kicks in when the needle is starting into the red. I have always noticed before the fan kicking in when the needle was around an 1/8- 3/16 past the 180 degree mark. I also have replaced both thermostats within the last year, so I'm not believing they are sticking (it's an ISX 565 ). Am planning on replacing them with the ones I had originally taken out just to be sure. It isn't a thermostat issue, when the gauge is showing in the red, the bottom out let on the rad is easily touched by my hand. I've also added a much bigger core count rad along time ago and this truck has an enormous cooling capacity, With a new fan stat sending unit it still does the same thing, Im not believing the gauges , would the lower voltage present at the dash could that be doing something to how the gauge reads, as soon as i can im going to pull the gauge pod and check incoming voltage to see if it actually is low and check the wiring contacts to be sure ive not got a bad contact anywhere Any input greatly appreciated Thanks Don
  6. Well i found this explanation , hope it helps somebody else.http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploads/2/1/9/0/2190100/tmc_bearing_adjustments.pdf
  7. on the rd models we used to have they had a valve that had to have 35 psi applied to it before it even started applying air to the front brakes
  8. mix up a bucket of soapy water, get a broom handle and tape a piece of 3/8 clear hose to it , suck up some soapy water using your mouth on the hose, use the stick to reach into spots, like under the cab, and hard spots to reach , and blow some soapy water on your connections , watch for bubbles, its worked for me trying to reach under the cab and hard to reach places,
  9. Its been about 400K kilometers since i last had the wheels off this thing and for the life of me i forget the procedure to adjust the lock nut on the wheel bearing, there is no jam nut, a large single nut that when set is locked on to a tanged washer with set screws,
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