theakerstwo

If you are going to work the truck then that single plate plate clutch will not stand up very long. I though that if it had a quadplex trans that if would have had a 2 plate clutch. I i remenber right if it has a single disc then you will have to get the longer shaft and a deeper bell houghing to use a 2 plate clutch.

Some rear could have the peanuts in the carrier but not all and if you have that rear end then you do have traction from left to the right. That was the same set up as was in the non air locking power divider nose cone.

Here is what i have done and if that is for sure what you want for power then take the mack engine out and with the clutch off off the flywheel get a machinest measure what you need in relation of the mack engine and fylwheel and have them build you a flywheel. I had one built like that and was not that much money. It saved a lot of time looking for a flywheel to find out in the end that there was never one built for it in the first place. Now is the L 10 a after/cooled engine?

fjh is right it is hard to explain but again the air lock maybe engaged all time so to check take the shifter cyl off and check to see if it is engaged all time . Also to decribe what it is for is it locks the front to the rear and makes them pull together instead of letting the power flow thru the front as well as the rear as each has traction and then it loses all power when one slips.The air locker has the ability to lock sloid were the power devider that does not have air lock is a spring loaded limit slip.

13.8 is enough voltage and also if you are checking the battiers at idle then try running it at about 1500 for a few mintes and then test at the battery with a multimeter for the voltage. 15 volst or close to it will ruin your battiers sone. Also as some one has said a bad ride will shake the battiers enough some times to make them leak.

That very bad for your engine and i no use them.

My question is on the timing. Is the timing advanced on the engine or do you know?

Mack # is 236gb311A

I think Tad has got it because when stop ant pulled no power to the switch so it sounds safe to me.

I agree a maxidyne can destoye a dulplex trans real easy. I have seen some tore up mfrom a thermodyne from being to hot and some one getting rough with them. The back box will split if you mash on it under a heavy load with a maxidyne. It that dont happen then the input shaft will twist at the oil pump hole.

I cant say that i have had them apart but have seen inside of them and they are a friction plate with a adjustable tenson screw to add pressure to the friction plates. They do take a fluid and it is not motor oil. I found some fluid on the web and here is the site. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/3255

Like already said it is hard to exsplain but i have one sitting here i did 25 years ago. I even thought about air at one time but backed out on that.

I see why that truck rides hard it is too short. If you add about 6 ft of wheel base then the spring ride will be better.

You would be using 4 12 volt and i would not go over 750 amp because that engine is not hard to turn.I dont think they will fit in your factory box. Unless you use car batterys. I see nothen wrong with 6 volt batterys myself.

As for nas the oil filter dont try to install a full flow because there is no full flow galley to the out side of the engine. In other words if it ant a full flow system it cant be changed to a full flow. And if yours have only one filter for oil and it is the luberfinder 500 then it is not a fullo flow statem. The screw on filter for a by/pass fillter to take the place of a 750 or a 500 will use a 777 filter .

Looks like a 12V71 DD engine

Take a pressure gage and put on the coolant side like any were below the thermostat and at 1800 check the water pump pressure. This will tell you how the water pump is. At 1800 or 2100 it show be running around 25 or more psi and if it is a BC4 then it should be around 38 to 45 psi at 2100. A slipping belt or a spining impellor may cause low or no water pump pressure. this can be done cold . If ever thing else checks ok then check for air pressure in the coolant and it is easy by using a pop bottle that is clear. warm the engine up for say 15 min. to the operating range and with a bottle full of clear water take the raditor overflow hose that comes out from under the rad. cap and put in the bootle. With rad cab on it should stop bubbleing air into the bottle after it gets to operating temps. If air bubbles are present then you may have compression in system. Some air operated heater control laves can let air in coolant if bad.

Rob i think your saying there is not enough room for the compressor. There is three different angle mounted compressors that will mount on the rear. One laying down at a angle to the left and one straight up and the other angle to the right. And some cabs can have a dog house door made to lay the compressor back in. Dont know were that compressor lines up with the cab but at the last resort i would use a belt driven compressor. With good mounting braket they will not be too bad but i have seen so many in my day were they were all worn out and will not stay tight and straight. Allso you may know that pump can be turned around to pump from the other side by turning the pump around.

Yes you will redrill the frame. I have a complete cut off i will send you some photos of you may want. glenn

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp Try this.

I have worked for the dealer for many years and some times the man that is doing the work spends more time writting a good story than he does working on the truck. It makes the job easy for the clerk closing the ticket. I was never good at writting a good story because i would work as long as i could on the engine and then write a short sotry only me could understand.

This is very true and i have know this for since the maxidyne came out but for a cummins driver you cant make him under stand that torque can get you there so horsepower can keep you going so a guy that is running a 13 speed and turning 2100 thinks he is losing time and power by pullingt the engine down to 1200. I have a freind that has two dump trucks and both mack. one is a 237 and the other is a 285 and both will top out at the top of a small hill the same time a 350 cummins will. Yes you can set a cummins up to do better but not at 1200 rpm.

I think you may need to check with the glass man because that was a common window in its days but i am sure it was a after market or home made. I have seen them in years past but would not think that it would be easy to find one now.

I thing that the way Rob talked about will work.

This hand here is telling it right. The mounts are for real different.