theakerstwo

Rob, he tryed to tell you he was for change so you must be as slow as i am. glenn

If the oil filter has three oil lines at the bottom of the can and two of them are larger than one then you have a full flow /by pass combination which the mack # for many years was 236GB311A. And if it is that filter then you need to fill then can with oil before starting it.

I know were a complete jake unit for a 2 valve for 600.00.

And then when you get thru with the adjustment install a dust cover on the bottom. I have replaced to many wore out clutchs due to dirt inside of the housing. Some guys think it takes too much time to put the bolts back in the cover so they throw the cover away.If i found a mechanice throwing away the dust cover he would get nothen but clutch jobs for a month.

This is going to be a hard problem to solve if it does not do it any more often than you have stated. But all i can think of is the common probles and that would be a bad connection any were but to the VSS as well as the clutch and brake switch.Loose connetion on the cruze switch but if it dont do it when some one is working on it you will be living with it a long time.

I have a snapon drag link shocket i use after a little heat. And there was a special thread file that we used at the shop to clean the threads. I guess a little round wire brush would work in a air drill.

And there is also the plus of hauling two different materials at the same time. The driver that i talked to said it was all about get in were a trailer cant so i would sayt their rates should be some more higher than ours.

And if you want to get the pump set up better then send in and have the governor set up for a ten speed trans and that will let the bottom end torque be raised up to the top of the rpm range and it will feel better to drive. The maxidyne pump makes good torqe at the bottom but then with a ten speed it gets to feel like a sled as it gets close to 2100 rpm. Now with it set for a ten speed the power builds as the rpm does and just feels like you want it to.

Some times the breather on a air compressore will get dirt in it and wear the compressore out and you can get some blow/by thru it like the bad rings on your engine. Not so bad on a mack because the compressor is not as big as other engines and dont turn as fast.

Well said rob a knurl job is what it sounds like and years ago they would do car engines that way and in a few months the guides are bad again and there is a good place to get blow by on the guides. Dont forget a bad turbo and air compressor and air compressors is a common thing on a S 60 DD.

The lead seal on the rear was not a seal but a dust seal only. It did not realy see oil because if you look the crank has a slinger made on the crank as were a normal seal would go. The slingler throws poil back and keeps it in the engine and the lead wire is onlt to keep out dust , roaches. bugs. When you see one dripping oil it is a sign of too much blow/by. I have seen them replaced at the dealer years ago and if the engine has too much blow/by it will keep on leaking. To replace it first thing is trans has to come out and i always pushed the new lead wire down in the grove in the retainer as much as i could then i would use a old wrist pin and roll it in but leave it sticking up some and the you dont trim none off for fit. You add some grease to it and force the retainer up over the crank and that will form the fit. I am sorry but i can not remenber the update but should.I am thinking there was no up date on that crank shaft.

I have used a can of draino but i have not seen any thing like that in a while. I saw a bottle of draino in the house some time ago and wife said that was all she could find in draino. I remenber the drano that was power and it was a acid. Like been said use a lot of clean water to flush with.And dont let it set in alummin too long.

When you do the adjusting then set it were with out any thing in the cab it will raise about 4" by itself when you release the latch.Straight from the book.

Welcome to this site and i have already learn something from you. I did not know there was a Vmac 4. glenn

But i saw a good listing in the OBITUARIES in the newspaper the other day listing as dead of the name of Common Sense.

I will get the E7 and then i will have bothe here when i pull the E6 down. I hope it will change out because i will use it till i get the E6 built and want miss any work with it. Both have the pto pad on front. I would like to build the E7 engine for mine but mine only has about 15000 miles on it now.The extra torque would be neat. thanks

A freind of mine that dont got no computer told me he just pulled a jake off and has complete less wiring and switch for a 2 valve engine and wants 600 dollars for it. Any one interrested i can pass on his #.

I would like to know if a E7 manual pump will work in place of a pump on a E6 not worrying about the calibration. What i am thinking about is the bolts that go thru the hub for the front gear. Is that the same. I have not being in the front of a E7 that i can still remenber. I wander if it is metric thread. glenn

I will say yes to this because i have seen them do it and a engine of mine did that after setting about 10 years and i was there fast engough to take the fuel ;line off. Luckey is what i think.

Rob is right a END854 was in a B615 and the only ones i remenber had the big rad like a B&% or B. The END864 had a different oil pan to clear the axle and different something else and i think intake. The E9 would be a hood full and i think the Dealer here at Enid ok had one not to many years ago.I dont got no photos. I always wanted a B73 with a hot 855 cummins in it.

3900- 4200 ohoms is same as open. It would take a long time to draw down the battiers at that.I think a voltometer in t56he dash will draw some but not enough to draw battiers.The starter motor has no voltage to it untill selnold engagement and the only way a selnold can draw would be deposits build up inside on the contacs. On 31 battiers if you have one dead it will pull the others over time. Process of elimination is what you will have to do. Rob you talking about electric coils reminded me later about a instructor years ago that i had could take both hand and grab all 6 wires in a little engine and kill it. I had forgot about it but i remenber him showing us for some reason and he was our automotive electric instructor.

What Rob said. I could have told you that but it would not came out like that in fact i would have got you messed up big time cause i could not have decribed that to anyone. But hes right. If you get shocked by a coil then dont leave any gap between you and the wire. Just grab it and hold on.

I guess i realy like this ideal

I remenber in the mid 60s some mixers had a pto that looked like that but it had a cog belt and it was exsposed to were you could see the belt. I think this is a chain and running in oil.

And you forgot to say any thing about the number of fags.