theakerstwo

That is a very good fool pruff way if you follow that way of addjucting. Most of us know a taper brg needs some perload but too much is bad. What is too much to one guy may not be too much to some one else.How would you tell some one in person or in a manual to not tighten too much?So some axle makers say to end up with .005 of end play. That is not too lose to hurt any thing and does give a way of telling some one how to check it. You cant feel too tight so they say leave it loose some so you can feel it.Then as a man gets some wheel brg setting behind him then he can do it the way he wants as long as a brg dont burn or a wheel dont come off.I have seen this in two different axle maker schools in the past.I dont use a indictor but after 40 years of setting brgs my way i think that is a good way for a student to start out with out some one standing over his shoulder. glenn

Rob i just came from the shop and did pull the front crank hub from the E6 and E7 because i will be using the hub from my E6 to go on the E7 and the pulleys so i will have enough room up front. The ID of the hubs are same the OD are the same as well as the width of the crank key way.So i have to find out if the hub from the water pumps will enterchange also.This E7came from a mixer so it may have been a RD but the pulleys fan and dampener are sticking out more than the supperliner is.So what i am saying is the hub size on the E6 is same as a 237 and a 237 or a ENDT675 is same as the old end673 B model engine. You can do it. glenn

I dont know Rob i know i used a endt 675 or 6 in my B61. I used the front damper and hub on the crank and the water pump from the B engine to get it to go in.In a few days i am going to pull the hub and damper from my E6 and try to put on my E 7 and also the water pump and housing to install in my supperliner.The block is same size.The travel on the fuel pumps will be reversed in the B model.The E7 is all metric.The E7 will need to be air/air cooled for the intake air.The E7 will need a pull clutch. glenn

I think your right. glenn

I dont know equipment #s.Never worked on them much.

I think it was a 1673 which was the for runner of the 3306. glenn

Rob i remenber when some rears did use a gasket and only can remenber right now as the IHC made by rockwell using a gasket. The gaskets will now stay in there. Too much flex. If you think about it the large opening on the banjo housging gets its strenght from the carrier bolted against the housing so you see were there is so much flex between the joint.The gray sealer made by locktight and permtex is better than silicone. grease will no hurt it. And on the eaton waranty reseals they ask to use it. It is what rockwell trans use instead of gaskets like eaton trans does.

fjf do you think the injectors would be the same or not?The reason i ask i have a project if i get started on it .It is a E7 and i want to use my new E6 pump and i know i will have to buy a turbo but dont know about the injectors.The E7 is from a cement mixer and maybe a 270 or 300.

If you can get the engine in there the wiring can be interfaced to the truck.What i like to do is take the oem harness from the truck with switches that the engine caome from. Open up the old harness and use only what you need to go to the switches and things like the VSS and tps and power supply. You will need a Vss if you want cruze.Youy will need a air/air cooler that is large enough for the cummins.

Like Paul said it is a dust cover. Tears ago when they were around and you found one leaking oil you was pretty sure it was the seal but in real life it was too much blow by. The oil is held in the engine with a slinger on the crank.If i can remnber correct the slinger was part of the crank and deflected the oil away from the lead dust seal.To instal you mash all you can of the lead wire in the grove and then roll it in with a round roller. Then with a soft hammer tap it up over the crank and that will size the seal to the crank. remove and grease and install. glenn

It ant me because i am afraid to close my eyes out there.The weather getting better hopefully we will not have to set too much.

That was a good one Rob. That is like the drivers shack we set in when we are waiting for a load. Some devans in there and some of the guys will lay and sleep thru the day on slow days and we have had some of them. Some times they snore so bad you what to go over and wake them up. glenn

Its Root beer for me since 1978. Pick up i had then could not handle its drink.Here when the cops catch up with your pick up they dont forget its color.So cheaper not to indulge that to get a new pick up.

Let me tell you what i did with my B61 for a front axle. I took a front axle from a cab over freight liner and about a 79 year and redrilled the spring pads for the mack springs and installed. The tires set out maybe 1 or 2" on each side. That does not look out of place non at all to me.To me it makes it look like a growed up truck. Also my springs have a big spacer on top of the axle making the cab set higher and it is not noticed as much setting higher.

I will agree big time on that.It is hard for some guys to set the wheel nuts for some reason.That is the reason Meritor come out with the one nut with a self lock.

Old joke of mine. Wedge brakes never wear out. Why? The shoes never touch the drums. Well that is almost true cause like Rob said if they are done the right way they can be a good brake. They do not require much voluminof air because of the small cans on them.But when they stop adjusting then get them down and repair the adjusters.CF used them big time on tractors and trailers.

I have a good 1966 R rad and i have a 1966 or 67 F rad. So give me a PM and i will tell you how they can be yours. No leaks and no bent fins in core.Some bugs but they can be wasked out.

http://www.axletech.com/service_manuals/pdf/standard/mm4r.pdf This is a manual you can read some if you go into them. If you do them right and make sure the adjucters are not bad and then clean them and use the grease that rockwell makes with new seals on the plungers you will be able to use them for many miles. Dont use any grease unless it is a water proof grease. Make sure the drums are good and smooth and no grooves in drums or on the shoes. Adjust them up be for you mave the truck If you dont do this you sre only playing with your self.They dont have a lot of travel so get them up almost draging to start with.They in most cases are self adjusting.

That is the reason you read about some were that a body was found with its head cut off and shove up his back end and the body was found to belong to a low life blood sucking lawyer.Some people can only take so much.If we did not have any lawyers then we would not need one any more.

You are correct.

I was around the KW and the G model and worked on both but that has been many years ago. The same story was told to us at the Mack dealer also. I just cant understand how the years passed by so fast.

It can have a timing problem.Slow timing has been mistaking for oil in the exhaust many times. Some times slow timing will cause the fuel to slubber thru the exhaust looking like oil when it is mixed with carbon. glenn

Rob i am almost sure that the ENDT 673 is a 205 or 211 HP. Now the ENDT673B is a 225 and the C is a 250HP. the B and C is a complete different engine than the ENDT673. The B and C will have different head and block with piston cooling nozzles. The engine you have will not have the piston cooling nozzles and it should have 18 heads bolts instead of 20.I think if i am right the 18 will be 9/16 and the 20 head bolts per head will have the 5/8 bolts. The will be studs and nuts on both engines. I think the cap screw head bolts came out after the maxidyne was introduced in 67.I am going on my memory and have no old manuals no more.The oil pressure regultor block on the side of the block will have 2 regulator valves in the B and C were the ENDT only had one regulator in it. There was a ENDT 673 but i have never seen one so i dont know what it is but i would think it is in the B and C family.