theakerstwo

In the mid 60s i remenber two of those coming in and one had a engine repower with a 6 71 DD in it . The other had a cat repower way before i remenber trucks coming from the factory with a cat engine in it. It was a equipment cat engine.The best i remenber the only thing different from a B 61 body was the rad and cowl was exstend forward.

You dont want any air to the air cylinder to get full rack.This is the one that mounts to the front of the pump. The advance is less smoke on take off and thru that your oil will stay cleaner. The down fall of trying to get it to work is it takes some time to get it shimed to the correct setting to were you have some smoke and still feel good.It it was on my truck it would be working because black smoke is not HP.It is ok for a hot rod but for a work truck i cant handle the black smoke.

That will be ok as long as you set your axle stops first then set the screws on the steer gear last.

The only thing i know about them is they are a over grown Detroit and to say out of the front of one when it is going down the tracks.

Rob a 909 or 9509 will have same low gear as a 13 speed.Lower than a 10 speed.

i remenber the days very well but do you thing you would want to stand there that the time it would take to look somthing up by a book with some one that has not been in the store very long. I think not. The PC has spoild us. The reason it was simple back then is because like cummins they had maybe two different pistons and injectors and one turbo fit all and no EPA junk to worry about and DD had a white tag or brown tag injector.caT HAD NOT GOT STARTED IN TRUCKS AND MACK was a 673 or a 711 so things were more simple in that respect.And ever one made less than two dollars a hour.That is in the mid 60s. I dont know about the 50s.and in the 40s i guess the guys made their own parts.My father in law said the only good thing about the old days was they are gone.

This true and also some steer gears are self setting meaning you dont play with them after the box is installed unless you replace the screws with a serice tool.I always want to say the axle stops are made to keep the axle pressure off of the steer gear. I have seen many guys remove the axle stops and throw them away but some times a gear failure ocurs. This is not a good thing.I had a driver call me about 2 miles from work and ask me 6o come look at his steering box. It was sitting in a street blocking the road and it would not turn .The bottom of the box was broken out due to no axle stops.

I have a toy truck with a aux behind a ten speed but if it is a work truck it can be problem if not taken care of.

The dog that was on it has a rounder head and ears than the newer dogs and it will bark a little louder than the new dogs.

Although I truly feel the same way, how are we to actually know that the next will be better? Heres the way i look at it they will be better than what we have at lest for a while. But when they have a signed check in their hand it takes a good man not to stick that money in his own pocket.So many steal and point their finger at some one else and say he did it.glenn

This i dont think is a DM so would it be a RM?

That is enough pressure but it should be done under a load.You are using more volumun of fuel under load and if a proble is there the pressure will drop off big time under a load.

I have two lift axles and i used a quick release on the lift up and down bags. It makes it so much faster going up and down. A quyick release like the barking brake circuit uses.

I am thinking a FLD freightliner may use the same one. If it ant you could rework the mount and it would. The FLD has 4 ter. on it.

You guys need to get some help.

As been stated it would be the clutch or you. If it worked fine at one time it would not be you so its clutch time. Even if the clutch lineage or cable was bad you still should be able to get out of gear easy. Most guys dont push the clutch down any way. Could be center disc binding but any way clutch time.If you shift with the clutch then it could be in the adjustment.

Poor old drive gets blamed for ever thing any more. But if you have troublem getting the parts from mack try finding some one that can order pai parts.

Well you have to be from some were i guess so welcome to the site and tell us all you know with plenty of photos. Photos dont lie you know. glenn

And this is the reason they all have somthing in common.I thought at first it was cause they were fags.

Torque to 220 and as for as using old bolts it is ok if not piited or stretched and i dont know the length but i always run the engine foe maybe 10000 miles and retorque. I do not know what mack says to do any more but some here are dealer techs and can say. But for years i have always torque it when hot and i back off each bolt one at atime then retorque and you can mark them and you will always gain it the torquing so i say the clamping is better after a retorque. I think the newer gaskets is a no torque but to me the clamping is a gain in doing so. Free advice again.

Ok then you know one is supply so take the other one by one hand a run you hand down it and then trace it to were it goes and tell us what it looks like were it goes.Could be a spitter valve on the bottom of a air tank.

Let me say something may help you here. If boost is only problem i would say many things may be problem other than turbo.A couple common problems with low boost is throdle may not be getting full throdle and that means your foot ant mashing your motor down. Another common thing is boost leaks at air/air cooler and that could be from air piping hoses or the cooler its self leaking.Another thing is fuel problem cause it takes fuel to get boost.

One should be air supply and the other will go to the air drier as a signal line.

What about a U model.

The spring shop here cuts the old u/bolts on all springs.And on the pad boxes bolts they are also replaced with new every time they are taken down. I guess it is a libilty thing with bolts.I know with freightliner only factory replacement bolts are only used in frames and things like that.