theakerstwo

Another good way i have used for any years. Lift up on the drive shaft with a jack like a old railroad jake but dont bend the shaft. Now with a good air hammer like a snapon hammer down on the yoke on the rear end or trans. This will using the pressure of the drive line drive the cup upwards. Or you can let the weight of the drive line hang down against the cup that will not come out and with the air hammer hammer up on the yoke next to the cap on the drive line. You are using the weight of the drive line to work for you. And the air hammer can beat fast harder and longer than you can and dont get tired. Ever time the air hammer hits the cup and yoke it sucks some of the pb blaster down in there.This will not get all out but most. If you ant got a good air hammer then forget this.I like the snapon because its the hardest i have found. I have had to get some one else with theirs on a project with me to help out.I think that the reason i cant hear good now.But the torch will work ever time.

Dont we wish. No gota pull the trans.

Go to cummins or a truck dealer and buy a cummins rebuilt and you will not have any trouble. I do not use or advice using the cheap aftermarket water pumps rebuilt for a mack cummins DD or cat. Here my look at it when cummins has to stand behind their pump i think they use what they cn get to stay on. I my self have seen many cat pumps spin and cant remenber seeing a mack pump spin but have seen a few cummins but i still say stay with cummins rebuilt.Thats my 2 cents worth.

Look at this, what if.

I know alot of guys blow out the air cleaner element but that is a good way of blowinbg a hole in the paper.I do shake them against the floor.I was in a donaldson sales meeting years ago and they declared that a stopped up air cleaner or one loaded with dirt was still as efective as new a filter only thing it cant get enough air thru it.

I have to save that

This helps me cause i get the feeling some times i ant to smart but this realy helps.

I have lived with the ideal that if the oil co could make a better oil they would and you would not have to add a additive.I would and have ued it on a DD i was running for a while that i think wa getting some fuel in the oil at about 15000 miles it would drop 6 psi of oil pressure.I would add a gal of lucas to make up oil and it would bring the pressure on up to normal. I did a couple oil samples and they say ok.But a gal of lucas would bring to oil change on out to 22000 mile. That was with a spiner 11 on it also. But this problem was not a problem of the oil i was using.I dont think the lucas will hurt the engine.

Larry i think what happen there is what happened when a guy brings in his truck in to the shop and says i have been working on it for two weeks but it want start. I have changed 4 battiers and starter and two new alternators and still same thing. You say how did you know all that was bad.Well i called some one.I have seen it many times and tought i bet he would get put out if i did that to him.But the art of testing is about to get lost in some places.

Me my self i have put in 40 or 41 years full time.But i can tell you this is not the same world it used to be.I know whats included in keeping a dealer open. The cost to the public is caused by many things. One is the manufactory demands so much cerifictions on the techs and the schooling is exspensive. So they charge 100dollars per hr and you know were you can get it done for 50 dollars per hr.First thing is a independent cannt get the info untill it is released thru the schooling then the techs have to release it to the indenpendents that dont have to pay any thing for it.Also a big cost to the dealer is warranty. The manufactory of a product will only pay so much for repair no matter how long you have to work on it. Cummins is one that never give enough time for a repair. They use to give .5 hr to maybe 1.hr to trouble shoot a problem and you know if it eletric its some times a all day job.The tools and software is exspensive also.

If tou took it the the spring shop and John sid its ok then i would not worry about it.

Instead of cutting on crossmenbers i would put a inter rail in it and for as the other crossmenbers that is not on the inter rail make a spacer plate same thickness as the inter rail and put behind the other crossmenbers.

And some times the large bore cylinders with alummin beds are just slow. My freind that runs two trucks in front of me has a 20 ft bed built from alummin triler that we so tire of. It takes so long and we have to wait cause when he moves with bed up no one wants to watch.He has had it in the shop a few times for this they say the hoist is just to long and large.

When my som still lived at home he had a D50 dodge pickup with a messed up carb. He took it off and we took it to a tune up store that is a large chain of stores cross the country to clean and put a kit in it.before i left work they called and said it was rady. My wife went over and picked it up then back by and picked me up. When i got in the cab i smell raw gas so i looked at the carb. Not a screw had be turned and it still had gas in it. They charged around 200 dollars for repairs . I called him and the manager was still there.He kelp saying he him self cleaned the carb and put a kit in it. I told him i would keep the carb in town all day to morrow and he could come out and see him self. I stopped payment on the check. He never cme out. About three months later a man from corp office in some other state called ask what i wanted him to do with the bad check. I told him first to listen to what happen then i said now do you want me to tell you what to do with the check.He replyed no and i would have done the same thing.

I hope the president dont see this. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=3ba_1296857530

Any time a piston is remove take the cooler out first. You need to see what happens when a cooler is bent some. I know ever one has their own way but you cant put the rod and piston back in and watch the cooler at the same time.If the rods hits it its can be a scored piston and liner. It dont thake 15 more mins to remove and install them.I made a home made puller but the rear cyl is hard to get out unless you drop the front of the engine some.This is hard the do.

look on the side of the flywheel housing for a round rubber plug and pull it out then install a turning tool in there and with a 1/2 rachet start to turn.Look at the bottom of the housing for a plate to remove and look for the timing marks.

And now your old girl freinds can find you now and they can have the last word.

I have a ideal you will make a story that will make her think shes the one in trouble.Anyway if you dont make it iam glad to get to know you and maybe we will she you some were else.But the secret of not getting in trouble is knowing when to run.I would run for my life.

We have the badest snow storm that we have seen i years here.

I have found that for leaks best thing to do is look. I mean clean engine and run it till its hot and with a can of brake clean keep it clean and blow it dry with a blow gun. Keep on looking and by all means use a bright light. I find it best to get it in the shade if out side and use a bright light.keep looking but this is next thing to dye and a black light.

bobo have you got your mat yet and if so how much money?

A steerable needs to be lifted to back up unless it has the back up kit which just reverses the caster when the trans sees reverse in gear.In the dump trucks here they weigh like my truck has two lift so they weigh the rer most four in a group which is the inter bridge nd the front to the rear as outer bridge. Its same as the Federal bridge law.So a 24 ft bridge with 5 axle will gross 63000.But some guys will weigh you per axle and try to ticket you for being over per axle even if your in side the group weight. No standards here with the DOT.They dont want to shut you down but only get some extra change off of the trucks.I am told it going to get worst because one DOT cop said they are starting to find those that cant stay with the GVWRating front factory.

I think 75 psi is too much air pressure. Any way around here we are only allowed another 5000 lbs per air lift.I have two lifts and have sacled them and at 48psi i am carring 7000lbs per axle.I saw a axle this summer that was not very old break up bad. I ask him how much pressure and he say dont know cause no gauge. We get to looking and he not got a regulator also.And a nosteer axle is only asking for frame problems over time.

For sure your a real mechanic if you can replace parts with baling wire. Yes it has its place but its for tieing up hoses or wires temparary till you get home. i have a truck now that owner before me has cobbled up ever thing there is a place to get his hands on.It always give a problem if you have a load of asphalt.I have got most of his repairs done over.He just about messed the wiring up in the dash. Cross wiring and by/passing and one switch was connecting the switch to another.He replace all of the stanless screws in side with steel that will rust with little pretty plactic chrome looking buttons and stripped the threads in ever thing he tighten.As for the wiring on trucks i have said for 40 years the factory needs to go to 440 volts and then put that in a conduct pipe.