theakerstwo

Maybe and maybe not.

That would be a JT cummins with a R46 trans.The 220 cummins would have a radator stand up behind the cab with a drive shaft running along the top or the left frame rail from the acc drive pulley to the rear of the engine with belt drive pulleys at both ends.Most of them use a 5 speed and 2 speed axle.

I my self would hate mys self if i told some one to inframe my engine and they will do that. Then you find out that its a oil cooler or cracked something.May whant to get some one to drop the pan first and take a look.

And if it has spun a brg good chance the crank is cracked or too soft. The mechanic will check for cracks and the hardness before they grind.

You run a good change of spling a brg if you use it with coolant in the oil. No short cuts to the repairs you need.

That is so easy to figure that iam going to let GearheadGrrrl tell you.LOL I my self dont know how to tell you cause i dont know what your asking.I be just little slow thro

Do what this man has stated. The problem is with who put it on and not the rebuilder. I have seen many times this has happened. Just remove the trodle linkage from the lever and go to full throdle and then return it to idle. Make the lever go to idle. You will see that its ok. Now try to figure out what you need to do. You will have to shorten the linkage or lengthen it and also move the linkage joint down on the lever some. They should be more than one hole for the joint to go in on the lever. That maybe all you need there. Now if you have been adjusting on the throdle screw you may have to readjust.Sound like the pump shop run out of patiences with you.He knows what it was doing on the test stand and he did not want to argue about it. It would have been easy for him to walk out there and show you what the problem was.

Have you found a E7 mechanical 400 engine? If you have to use a V mac then you have a lot of electrial work to do. And yes the rears will handle the torque.

I have install sevral in the past years and one thing i will tell you to do is water pruff the unit more than it is now. You have it mounted were the road salt can get on it and that is the killer. I would spry it with the clear plastic spray or some selicone arould all joints. I see thay have a better looking cable now. The cable was something that would get salt in and frezz up.I run a dump also but dont need a cruze that much but today i ran 540 miles and most of it was on the big road.So i to whished i had one.

Its not on the timing cover but on the block infront of the fuel pump drive were it bolts to block. In the rounded part of the block on top or like been stated in the rear of the block if from a F model.

Four dollars a gallon here now so who would want to put fuel in one.Thats only 25 gal for 100.00.I burn 50 gal a day so i know why i ant got no money.

I the B model day i only remenber the F model having the filler on the right side bolted to a side plate. All the B models i remenber was in the V/C

If i had my druthers trucks would be wired with 440 and inside of conduit piping.Wonder how many knife blades would be burnt off.Or drivers denutted.

Its no problem to get a account but i cant by from them. They have dealers around that can.

The 5/8 bolts was torqued to 175 ft lbs. No fire ring.

I have seen them do that and most time its from getting in two gears at once. Low split and when you go into direct the low side fork comes lose and if your moving slow enough it will stay in low and go into direct then bang. Also a hard pull with big HP may do that. Look at the PAI website for parts.

Its that old road you run ever day. You have got to get them to repair more roads.I hauled asphalt over near your house last week.

Yes you could and may still be able to get a seal that rides on the crank but the one with a wear ring is a set up to save the crank or if crank has a wear ridge in it the wear ring will take care of the wear on the crank.

Sound if the dog is trying to comment suiside. Tired of this old world.

You are correct i have put the T in the wrong place as wrong on the endt674

Its a mack engine. The ENDT673 will have 18 head bolt studs which is 9/16 and a nut that a 7/8 shocket goes on it. It also does not have oil cooled pistons. The ENDT673a b and c is same block as the maxidyne and will have 20 head bolt studs or cap screws. They are 5/8 in size and a 15/16 shocket. will fit on the nuts. It also has oil cooled pistons.The END and ENDT 673 with 18 head bolts was same block but different from the A,B,C The early END 672 and 673 did not have a full flow oil filter but a partial flow by/pass 500 luberfiner. The ENDT 673 a b c was same block and heads as the 674 675 676 but ever new model has a improved something as all engines. Some guys say the first maxidyne had cap screw head bolts but i am sure i have seen them in the early years with studs and nuts.

Or some one may have made a ENDT673 from a END673. I have done alot of them years ago.There was a ENDT 673 and a ENDT673A which was total two different engines. the A was a good engine and was same as a Maxidyne all but the governor.

I saw it at the Tulsa KW dealer about 14 years ago.It was in gray primer then. And yes it is ugly but i guess he is in confort in there. He showed mw aound on the outside and ask if i would needed any more info. That has some wheel base to it.I think he is from Mo.It did win a ugly truck contest some were.

For many years at work we had a over head lub system to add oil and grease to trucks. We i finished a engine i would leave the turbo suppy oil line off and connect it to the oil gun from over head and pump 10 gals of oil into the engine thru the turbo oil hose back to the engine. Tuen the engibe a few times as its pumping oil in to the engine and you see how much easy it turns when it gets oil.I have fitting made up for all engines.