theakerstwo

I am looking for some one to take the time and get some photos if any one has a supperline11. I need photos of the rad to hood seal or rubber flap seals. My self and a parts man just looked for them and can not find them on his comp.Mine are missing and alot of air misses going thru the condener when at idle. thanks glenn

Here is some more chicks that is looking for a home. Rob i have their phone #

Your setting on your cooler when in water plus its not like your pulling full horse power 100% of the time. Never been on one but i guess once you get the boat on top you will throdle back so figure.

She looks happy to me so keep doing what you have been doing.

drugs

Yes

You should have had the little pretty blue gloves on.Maybe safty glasses to.

I know some guys set their engine up hot and get by with it but chances are when they change main brgs the bore is off or there is cracks in the main brg struts up to the block. I tore one down one time that was so cracked that the main bolts was holding the upper half up and the oil passage had to be leaking oil. It had been cracked long time.Always find that they are set up on the fuel.So i have said for years with small cubit inc engine like these be carefull about setting fuel up.

Thats when you need some supper glue

On the unishift there was a adjustment that was a problem that many drivers did not keep in range. The clutch acuaction air valve for the shifter. The clutch needed adjusted often as we as the tigger on the air switch.I dont know how the air system lasted as long as it did with out air dryers.

I know your right.When you start hot rodding a mack engine and trying to work it ever day it will cost you a engine.

It was a another selling point to fleets by eaton.

They are like all other trans some models are for smaller torque and others for higher torque. The most common one was RTLO16710. Its good for most all 470 DD and larger cats.Go for 1650 ft/lbs

Here is what eaton said when they designed it. The driver will only have to move the stick half the times that a straight 10 will be shifted. There was no need in this trans but if you would shift it in neutral ever time it was a smooth trans. In stead most drivers did as eaton ask and that was shift the splitter while in gear. But the best way was to slid into neutral and then split it was so smooth.I have been in alot of them and when they first came out. The second gear had a update and it had a wider gear installed.They were ok for a 2100 rpm engine.The real reason i think was they could with a 60S engine make a top 2 out of them. The engine ecm would if programed to do so, shift the top two gears back and forth by the ecm. No matter were you gas petdal was it would shift and set the gas pedtal back were it need be by its self.Down shift and up shift for 9 and 10 gear.Most guys did not like that and had that deleted in the ecm.

I like zep my self. I use the power and mix my soap for the pressure washer.

You may have a bad gauge.

Well i just bought the second steer box for my truck two weeks ago. The first was about 10 months ago.I knew it was too tight when i installed it. Its a sheapard and no adjustment on the sector. It scored the cylinder too bad to rebuild. And the rebuilder out of tex said they would have to rebuild mine cause no more cores. What i had to do was get one thru Mack for more than twice the first amount but if it holds up so what.

Mike i am going to bed i will catch up tomorrow night.Going to be hot to.

I wish i could keep up with you guys.

I think your right

As for as brake cams you would be surpriced what you can get from a after market supply. You have to measure ever thing on the cam just like you would need if you was to have a machine shop build it for you.They have a chart to go to with the info.I have to do that on my truck. Daton wheels and i want to go to the exstended service shoes which require a thiner cam.

Yes Rob in most of the trucks i work on the engine fan should have engaged before 300 psi and the pressure has started down.If its at a 900 rpm idle and the fan cant keep the pressure under 275 or 300 its got problems.

Yes Rob in most of the trucks i work on the engine fan should have engaged before 300 psi and the pressure has started down.If its at a 900 rpm idle and the fan cant keep the pressure under 275 or 300 its got problems.

I charge them till the comp locks then let just enough off so comp will turn again. Well you would be supriced at how many guys think that is ok. Ever one has there way of charging them. There is no way of telling what pressure it will have but when you do them ever day you have a good ideal if its in range. We always put a charge in the system that is weighted and in specs of the factory. If its a system like is in my old truck thats been reinvented then i will charge it till gauges look good and then start to go up a little at a time till the temp starts to drop.Its over charged then and will burn the belt fast. This may take a hr to but if its on your own labor is cheaper.

Well sounds like the new Macks is still a work truck.