Freightrain

Wow...now that's a short wheelbase! Neat find!

Here's the short clip of Stan's truck blow'n smoke.

I remember way back in maybe early 90's when Two guys garage(was Shadetree Mechanic) was a useful show to watch, Sam Memmollo put an exhaust brake on his Cummins pickup. I remember him talking about also switching exh springs to help keep them from floating. I put an exhaust brake on my Ford F350 powerstroke in 2000. Since Ford put a Exhaust back pressure valve in the system to help with warm up anyway, a company came out with a controller to actuate it for braking purpose. It worked slicker than snot and I could practically stop the truck just downshifting it(6 spd). I had the turbo go out at 9k miles and replaced under warranty, the service manager reamed me a good one about how that exh brake was NOT allowed and would void my warranty. Since I had spent near $100K in the last few years on trucks, they let me go but had to promise to remove it. They claimed it was the cause of failure(ya, right), though it was a common issue with them back then to have bearing failures due to oiling issues. I got 50K miles out of it before selling truck. The Ford EBV had a hole in it to protect it from over pressurizing, as it had hydraulic lifters and valve float was VERY possible.

Cool!

Nice shop Paul!! Makes that B look like a toy LOL!! When I back my truck into it's parking spot, you have to step out into the yard to change your mind LOL!!

Sorry to hear about the problems moose. Like mentioned, sounds like it's just gunno keep failing til you strip it and start fresh. Like Fred mentioned, if you want originality, these old motors should be plentiful to find. I'd love to find something "bigger" for my truck as I use it regularly and a bit more power would be really nice. Love to find a new home for mine to offset the costs IF and WHEN I did find a motor. Skip, a fellow bought an F model with V8 off Ebay last year. I actually looked at the truck for Terry(on the board here) and it ran great(couldn't drive it though). It's back on Ebay, motor is blown up. Seems the new owner got it home and it came apart taking it off his trailer? Ouch!

Hey Paul. Glad to hear its moving forward. On adding pics.......... Look below the box you type in, you'll see a "manage current attachments". There is a box that you can "browse" your computer for pictures and upload them into your post.

Like the people who put square lights in older KW's. Not a fan of that conversion, though I guess some people think it makes the old truck look "new". It just doesn't always fit all the round corners of the front ends of old trucks.

Good luck getting ANY straight answer on that one. Everyone here(in any state) gets a different answer depending on who you talk to at their State patrol or whoever. I went round and round, then decided with all the traveling I'll do that it would be safer to have it. If you only plan on putz'n around your home town then I wouldn't worry. If you plan on traveling far then I'd say it's more probably that you might get questioned someday.

Ditto that!

Probably the 237hp version? Where the maxidyne were 285, 300hp? Am I close?

If you crawl under the the truck, look on the driverside of the tranny about the middle and you should find a flat spot with a few lines of numbers on them. Like Mack mentioned "TRD", "TRT", "TRQ" (the last letter means "d"uplex, "t"riplex, "q"uad) and the following numbers gives the gear ratio inside. There are alot of different gear ratios available, but that is not all that critical right now. If you want wiggle the handles and figure out the patterns, then that is a cleaner way to find out what you have.

Depending on my racing schedule next year, I'll try to come over. It's kinda far out for me to say for positive, but I'll do what I can.

I'm not sure what holds the preload on the pinion bearings? solid sleeve or crush sleeve(like a Ford 9"). The nut is cotterpinned, so in reality it should not come loose unless there is issues inside(like bearings or crush sleeve). I didn't have access to big air impact so a 3/4" breaker bar did the job.

Sounds like maybe a double over Triplex? Where 4th over and 5th under is same, just like the double over Quadbox. It would actually be a downshift instead of upshift, thus you don't use it. Ya, it's not a true 15 spd, but not a big deal. My single over you can use ALL 15 gears in progression.

When I bought my B, the seal started leaking on the pinion. Once I got the driveshaft off, I was able to wobble the pinion slightly. Seems someone had it apart before and didn't tighten the nut enough. I put a new seal in and then got the nut one more notch(for cotterpin) and it's been fine for 5 yrs now.

Well..........like mentioned it could have a choice of three different trannys. Duplex(10 spd), triplex(15 spd), Quad(20 spd). Is there a tag above winshield(in center) that shows shift pattern. It should unless someone removed it, or tranny was changed. Try shifting both levers and see what kind of pattern each has. The Duplex will have the right stick only move forward/back(compound) and the left stick will be 5 spd. The Triplex and Quad box will have left stick(compound) either 3 or 4 spds and right stick will be 5 spd. The extra splitter on handle could be PTO control? or tailgate control? Two speed axle someone added? Who knows? The B was made '53-65 with alot of configurations, three cab designs, two hood lengths, two hood widths. Price? That usually depends on what you are willing to pay, what he is willing to sell for. Location has alot to do with pricing also. $1500 might be good price, others might want $5500 for same truck. The floor is easily replaced, as I put a new one in my truck after I bought it. It was rough in the corners under windshield(that leaked) and I cut it all out and replaced it.

Welcome to the site! It's a sickness with NO KNOWN CURE..............bummer huh? LOL!

I can't find a place on my 673 that DON'T leak something. Runs too well to ever take it apart. (I'm checking for GREEN paint, as maybe someone swapped motors in the past LOL!)

Start to check voltage to each jake. Sounds like one is not functioning or the the solenoid is out. A buddy had problems with a Cat with jakes, found out it was a wire thru the firewall that had cut, thus not firing all jakes giving him only LOW setting.

When I change the oil/filter on my B, I put 3 gals in the sump, 3 gals in the filter. I marked my dipstick with the 3 gals in the pan only. It seems to be okay(after 6 yrs of runnin the wheels off it), but after sitting a few days, it seems to drain the filter back to pan as the stick is up again double what it was with 3 gals in it. I marked it there also, so before I get it out I pull and check it. Luckily, even near 50 yrs old I don't add a drop to it all summer.

You can still get the chrome radiator shell NEW from Mack. I got mine about 4 yrs ago?

Wow...someone put ALOT of time into that restoration. Simply beautiful. That lil gas'r just looks lost under all that hood!

Using the aux, is a "need to" type arrangement. Only split when you need the power, and skip along when you don't. That is how I drive mine for the most part, and you'll find that most guys on here with old two stick trucks do the same. No sense wearing your arm out LOL! Just remember upshifting is the simple part, just let the rpm's drop enough to get it into gear. Down shifting you have to raise the rpm to match. As you watch my little video, you'll see that when I downshift the compound(after upshifting the main box), I blip the throttle to raise the rpm enough to drop it into gear. Depending on how wide the ratio is makes the difference in how many rpm you have to raise to get back into gear. It's all in just learning your set up.

Like I mentioned, straight cut gears are very noisy. If a ring and pinion were straight gears, you'd hear it howling over everything in sight. Cars are refined, and made to be quiet. There are limitations to car rearends, but for the most part are strong enough to survive. John Force goes 300 mph on one. The old Mack double reduction rearends have straight cut gears in the final ratio, but the speed they turn keeps the noise from being audible. I'm sure you've heard of the Muncie "rock crusher" 4 spd. Yup, straight cut gears and it whines big time. Cool for a hot rod, but most don't care for noises like that(like old solid lifter motors). Learning to drive a truck tranny just takes time/patience/smoothness. Can't jam it along like a car. It has to be worked like a walking on eggs. I learned on my truck on the way home from buying it. Still "grind" a gear on occasion(nobody is perfect). Just have to live/learn.