Freightrain

I have dreams, but it would take 900 million to disappear from all the idiots that would hunt you down to beg for money. Just think of it. You would be a WORLD WIDE celebrity and that comes with A LOT of grief. I agree, it would take a private trust to try to hide it all from anyone. You just couldn't show up with the ticket and yell "IT's ME!!"

All I'm trying to do is confirm what bolts a 673 uses to hold the flywheel. I'm going to get a larger(3/4") in the same design. "IF" the bolts are the same as the bolts from the 237, then I'm good. I have the sample I need. If they are in some manner different, then I was just looking to find out now instead of after I pull the motor(whenever that time comes). Glenn, I don't really what to deal with putting a cable clutch in and all that. Just don't want to deal with it right now. It is doable, I have the technology, but I have too many other things on my plate right now to tear into that project too. I understand I'll have a better clutch, but I don't have the driveline to put up with too much abuse anyway so I'm good with the current clutch.

Ouch. Glad everyone is okay.

Don't have a home phone anymore. Only a cell. Last message was a reply to you yesterday at 3.33pm.

We need PICTURES! Videos!! Walk around? Drive around? Sumthin.

And that is why I asked. I don't want to assume it is the same as the 237 bolts I have. The 237 bolts have a relief cut behind where the washer is and the threads. Likely where the bolt will stretch when torqued. I'm kinda wondering if I just get a std grade grade 8 case hardened bolt and torque it will it be okay? I surely don't want them to fail. Just another "what if" scenario I've had running through my head for awhile. Typical car flywheel bolts aren't anything special, persay. Just case hardened bolts, usually with a thin head to give clearance for the clutch disc. These 237 bolts area actually a thicker head then normal.

How about the actual bolts? Should I assume the 237 bolts I have will be the same(length) as the ones in my 673? My cover plate is off the top of my bell. Maybe I can look in and see what I have for clutch. Thanks Glenn.

Anyone have some that I could get a picture of next to a tape measure? I'd just like to compare to the ones from the 237. Are they identical? Probably, but I'd like to know before I start searching for the 3/4" versions I need. I don't want to wait to pull the motor to compare. How about a flywheel? Just so I can get a visual on that. I hate flying blind and waiting to pull mine apart. Thanks.

I remember black/white TV. I remember using a pay phone. I remember when our work bought the first fax machine. I remember having to MAIL drawings to customers and waiting for their return. Ugh...how do we wait the whole 3-4 minutes for an email to return?? Oh the despair.

When there wasn't much anything better(back then), we were happy with what we had. What else was there? Now, not so much. We're all spoiled rotten.

Wish I had a real use for it. Nice looking unit.

Weren't these Harry's? Can't say his last name off the top of my head.

I'm betting it is a rough ridin' sum gum and likely why no one ever has one at shows(that they actually drove there).

Must be a bad leak. The compressor on the truck doesn't have enough CFM to make enough pressure to make enough noise to find it. Like mentioned, put some shop air in the tank and see where it makes noise. Might be the main line off the compressor that blew?

I was curious about that Glenn. I know on my FE engines the rocker shafts have to be rotated a specific way or they don't oil the rocker properly and they sqeak(and then wear out if you don't fix it). I bought my first 428 30 yrs ago with this issue and figured it out. I'm going to pull the shafts and see where the oil holes are at on the shafts. Not sure if the book shows location or not? I know the holes should be on the bottom side of the shaft if like a Ford motor. That is the wear side. I did clean them up before putting the top end back on. Don't recall rotating the shafts, but it is a possibility. Better to check now. Only two on the front head are dripping oil on the valve stems. Rear, nothing. I only added some oil to the filters when I screwed them on. Haven't added any other oil, it was near full and no water in it(drained some oil to see). I'll be changing it once I get it in the truck(or just before while on the ground). I did oil the tips/rockers and the like before assembly so it wouldn't be completely dry on start up.

Replaced them with new.

OK question for the day: how much oil do the rockers pump? Even after a few minutes of running it only has a couple valve tips with oil on them. The rest are dry. The rocker shafts are wet along with the pushrod cups. Just concerned as it is making 80 psi right now because it is so cold. It should be pouring out somewhere. I've had them off. Should I pull the rockers again and make sure the oil holes are clear. I washed them in parts washer but didn't tear them apart.

Strangely enough you would think they would stick "open"(not want to latch), not closed? That's kinds scary. I'm guessing they would not open from the outside either? that leads me to believe it is the latch itself, not the handle part. Really odd they both stuck.

I'd think some frost might have something to do with it also? I've had my compressor governor freeze up after I pull it outside in the winter and shut it off. Won't build air when I restart it. Once it heat soaks it works fine again. Feel lucky you are young enough to get out the window LOL!!

I saw it wed evening when I got there. Then Thurs morning someone was unloading it. That is when I talked to the buyer and they said it was already sold. I told them I was looking for something to replace my now wrecked bunk(from the day before).

Looking at the pics now I realize I watched that bunk get unloaded at York. Didn't know it was yours.

Thanks Jim. I'm stoked....especially when I got the turbo whistling.

It RUNS!!!!! Now if I could link it with my phone. YouTube "59mack" and it is there. Took a couple tries. Used a heat gun to warm the intake up and a couple small shots of ether and it fired off. Really excited. Surprisingly the motor runs smooth and didn't want to walk around on the floor. Air starter works but only after I put enough air lines on it to be strong enough to spin it. Now to start tearing truck down.

Had the cover off the gov. and the pump. Had a couple sticky plungers(which I freed up). Everything seems to move fine. I do have a thick book(manual) to cover turbo if things did awry(I wish thinking ahead). I'm only using enough fuel to barely start it the first time. Once it "starts" I will stick the line back in my bucket of fuel. Likely tomorrow I will pull starter from truck to start it. If it runs fine I will be pulling truck apart anyway.

Well it is all in one piece now. Everything is bolted on. The primer pump was not working so I had to do a little finesse with it. Finally got fuel returning to my jug. Like is good. Only hiccup is I don't have a big enough air line to the starter to make it run fast enough to start it. Ugh. Either buy a 1" line or pull electric starter from truck and wire it up. Time with tell.