Freightrain

Well, the first clamp I got from Cross truck was too big(5"), so I returned it for a 4". It is a narrow groove and would not get around the big cast iron pipe. They didn't have a wide version so I went to Mack. They couldn't come up with a real part number(since I didn't serial number from the truck it came from) so he got a few from the back and I picked one. It sorta fits but won't grab the pipe side enough. It might be the downpipe I bought is too small on the clamp area for the clamp to grab it tight. I am going to check the part number I bought and compare Jim's number. All else fails I'm going to just modify the pipe side and make a "spacer" to thicken it up and give the clamp something to hold onto. We'll see. The clamps are made by Breeze that I bought. Glad to hear the oil pressure is not out of line. I don't think I will worry about changing the gauge, yet. Like I said when it warms up it stays around 60# or so when I rev it up.

WTF......can't I buy V clamp for my exhaust?? No one has a clue along with Mack dealer. Got a wide groove version but it wont grab my downpipe enough. I tried massaging the clamp but I think I will have to add some wire to the pipe side to get it big enough to tighten it. Ugh. Did get the oil changed. 6.5 gal to the full mark. It now pegs the 100# gauge if you give it some throttle when cold. I know it was 60# hot the other night when I got some heat into it, like 160*. 40# at idle hot. She has a pretty good lope when cold. Really rocks the truck. Smoke? It fogs the neighborhood. It does clean up when it warms up some. Did move it a bit back and forth so I know the clutch works. Did get some fab work done on the bunk replacement parts. The lower ledge is built. Now for the corner piece. Get it put in and then a door. 3 wks til I got to leave!!

I may come up with something and just make it myself I just haven't got to that point yet. Once I get the nose bolted back on it I will have a better idea what I need to have to make it fit. Kevin I will let you know. Thanks.

Before I go building something I wonder if someone might have the plastic molded tube that turns 180* to hook the turbo up to the air cleaner? Something along these lines: I know the turbo is 3 1/2" diameter. My air cleaner pipe in the firewall is 4". I know it is kinda tight in a B model so this might not even work. I don't have the fenders back on the truck yet so I can't "see" what I have to work with yet. I hope to get them bolted on this weekend. Found a better pic: I suppose I could made the 180*, just need the flex piping and support/heat shield.

Well what I've been hearing is that isn't as easy as it seems. Maybe not? Dual disc clutch, deeper bellhousing, change in clutch linkage, etc? I think I'll just let it go for now(and likely for a longgg time).

That is likely from the Dick Best collection. He is from that area and I'm thinking I remember seeing it years back when I used to go to his place for his summer party.

Yes, full air pressure. The exhaust from the motor has a little "muffler" on it. I removed mine as that is also a restriction for air flow. It is NOT like you will ever hear the air wooshing out of it while driving a B model!!!!!

Yup, air. They can be finicky, but once you have the system good they work fine. Mine will near throw the blades off it runs so fast. The dash control will usually have a bad o-ring, which means it leaks air. Beyond that there isn't much to it. The wiper motor itself might need some cleaning and attention, along with the air lines to it. They swell up or get hard and plug up and won't pass enough air to make them move. The motor is easy to remove off the fire wall. Note which hose goes where so you can assemble it again. I pulled mine apart and cleaned the valving inside and put it back on with some new supply lines. Wow, what a difference.

I know it is a very, very tight fit back in that collar. You have to remove the brass drain valve to get it out of there. Too much paint and it won't slide through. I ran it long enough to get the temp gauge to start to rise. Being it was only mid 30's the paper I put in front of the radiator helped. I had fogged the neighbors for long enough and shut it down.

Well, radiator is hooked up so I fired it off. Still no exhaust, but that is next on the list. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK_Ukv3wr88 Gotta chuckle at the black smoke. I couldn't really razz on it hard as it would blow my drier vent hose off. I know these old motors would block the sun back in the day.

I wonder if a 237 set up would bolt on. Mine was unique due to lack of cooler and turbo. Yours should be easier since it likely looks like this.

Top of the water manifold and back into the water pump. Just remove plugs and hook up hoses.

I put R model spin on my 673 na. Do you have oil Cooler? Mine doesnt. I got mine from Global truck trader on the east coast.

Ditto that. Been a really warm winter here in Ohio. I guess we might get some white stuff on Sunday as that system blows through. Doubt it sticks since the ground is so warm.

What happens when you bypass the drier? If it is getting good air to it then I would remove it and see if it works fine without it. If the drier is anything like we have on our compressor at work it has a disectant(sp) filter that could be clogged. If we run the old compressor it pumps lots of oil and it will clog the filter til hardly any air gets through the filter so I have to bypass the filter if I have to run it. The unloader valve in the compressor could be leaking back and not actually making good pressure. Or the governor is holding it open?

The ol 673 will run on the governor all day(been there for lots of years). Look on the drivers side of the transmission for a flat spot that will have the transmission code on it. Same with rearend. Won't be hard to figure out what road speed you have.

What is the difference?

I rebooted my computer and it really works well now with the new format......................................................

Which brand of pump? Typically just a small wrench will get the job done. I did mine years ago. Once fuel got to $4/gal I rolled it back down again. It is back to 8 mpg instead of 4 mpg. She did run much better, but couldn't afford to feed it.

Correct Glenn. It draws water(heat) from the water manifold, goes to heater, then returns to the water pump.

The original line came back into the casting the water pump bolts to(which is now the oil cooler-see the flat spot on top of the elbow going to cooler). I found a plug in the water pump to use.

Got pump mounted. Fan belts on. Radiator set in. Can now work on making radiator hoses.

Got mine on EBay also.

oh...no pictures. She is not photogenic and runs/hides from cameras.

Ya, your "friend with a wrecker" has a BIGGER wrecker then my friend with a wrecker LOL!!! But, it all works the same. Beats the hell out using a tree........... Yuns got a slightly larger shop to work in too.