Freightrain

That is what I was wondering.........do most guys remove those two crossmembers to allow more wiggle room? You have to raise the motor enough to clear the pan I think the valve covers might be an issue. Also the bellhousing is pretty tight to the floor and I don't think there is more then 2" clearance to the floor so you can't raise the motor enough to clear. Just looking to see how others have done it.

Okay I am near ready to pull the motor. It looks like a very tight fit to get it out of the chassis. Do I need to remove the front crossmember and motor cross member to make room to get the motor out? It looks like the valve cover will hit the firewall before I get the oil pan to clear the cross members.

Pretty sure I already pitched the pump that was on my motor. Old style with reservoir on it.

MIne was no gem when I unloaded it: No intake, oil cooler, etc. $300, figured if it ran I was good, if not I wasn't out anything.

Looks just like my 237....only dirtier. What is on the back of the compressor? Power steering pump?

I tried following Tom to Syracuse back in 2003. With that added box he would just run away from us. It got such good fuel mileage we were siphoning out every few hours and passing it around cause it would suddenly be overly full?? LOL!!

Those two hexes on the top of the pump are the valves. My 237 had issues when I first tried to start it. Would not prime(Mine has hand primer mounted where the front hex is at). The fuel line should come from the tank to the FRONT fitting on the bottom, then out the rear to the filter(if I recall correctly). Doesn't look like there are any lines hanging on the bottom, so I'm guessing they are using the electric pump. Remove those caps on top, I think there are small springs in there too? Been a month so I don't recall all the details of mine.

Hey Tom..........you tryin' to one up me?? I'd like to have a set of jakes for my 237...........just for the Halibut. Getting ready to pull my old worn out 673 right soon.

Keeps the bolts on the manifold "easy for removal"...........

Looks like a regular Carter style electric pump. I'm guessing it is someones handywork to fix some kind of issue. Can you take a picture of the side of the injection pump? If there is no hand pump or lift pump then I guess that is why they put an electric one on it?

I think they go for $2/gal here locally. When I stretched my truck I got some tanks for $25 each? Few years later they wanted $100 for the same tank! I haggled them to $50. 8" x 24"? Something around that. Just black painted alum tanks.

Ya, kinda like every lawn tractor comes with a chrome push bar. Keeps people from busting up the flimsy plastic hood. My 72 Cub Cadet has a cast iron grille on it. Ain't no tree gunno make a mark in it! The manufacturers are getting smart and offering a little bit of protection to the flimsy front ends(including the plastic bumpers on trucks).

Sure glad we missed it ALL!!! Heck I never even got the mower deck off my tractor yet!!! I'm sure I'll pay for it sooner or later. More then once I've been out in 12" of snow trying to get it changed over in the driveway.

Mine is ARD? if I recall. I printed the manual from online. I think it said mine were replaceable? I did the front bushings the next summer? Worst part was getting the bolt out(all rusted together with inner sleeve of bushing). I then burnt the bushing out. Used a long piece of threaded rod to pull the new bushing in. Worked pretty slick. Why I didn't do all that work before I assembled the truck??? Ugh.

Nothing like a big set of Nathan's to wake up the sleepy drivers on the road!

Just goes to show...them electric cars don't stop on the ice any better then a GAS powered car. Hmmmmm. (ya, I get the rear tire chain joke)

I "rebuilt" mine a couple years ago. The threaded parts were "ok" but the diameter where the bushing rides was like 1/4" under on diameter(or more). They were bad. I just welded them up and kept grinding til the bushing fit on again. I didn't take them off the truck, as I didn't rebuild the front bushing til the next summer? I also read about the pin that you could remove and install new threaded stud. I didn't want to open that can of worms! I was stupid, as I had the frame section all blasted and painted before installing on the truck. I wondered about those bushing but figured it was alright. Not. I should have taken them apart when it was sitting in the driveway all summer like this.............. I waited til I put the truck together and then fought with them. Ya, I'm stupid like that sometimes.

You can download them right to your post(see "attach file" below the post box), but the easiest is to download them to places like photobucket and then link pics here.

Oh, I ain't skeered to run it even with 180 hp. Just keep me on flat ground!! Now maybe I can pass on hills?

Well, we have PAINT!! From this: To THIS.............. Starting to look like something. Very close to being ready for installation.

Ya, miss those old paint schemes. Just can't get excited about a plain white or red truck. Blaaah.

Hey.......like here at work.........I'll be GLAD to tell you where you can stick it!!!!

Ya, figure out close to what you need, cut a radius piece of steel and tack it on the back. Kinda what they do with brake drums.

I still have some copper left in my truck(under the dash and things). Anything else I added/fixed went to plastic. I agree, get some of that cloth covering and hide the plastic if you are concerned about visual appeal. Not sure, didn't they put that cloth on most of the copper back when new Glenn? Or not everywhere, but just where it might rub.

Looks like a good way to fold up an ICC bumper?