Mack

[alabamaslammer]

  

Edited Tuesday at 02:58 AM by alabamaslammer

[tjc transport]

it sounds like you have a good solid plan for getting it home.

i wonder if there is still crud/crap in the fuel tank that is plugging up the in tank pickup?

when running, it picks up the crap and plugs the pickup. then when engine off the crud falls off the pickup and restarts the cycle.

i would carry a bunch of fresh filters for the ride home if the pickup and inside of the tank looks clean. 

[mowerman]

Well, that thing looks like it has lots of life left. Good luck with it bud and yes, towing is a fortune. That’s not an option unless you’re working at local and don’t have to go very far…. Bob

[mowerman]

Best of luck let’s get her done:… bob

[mrsmackpaul]

Okay my 2 cents worth

Drain fuel tanks into containers, Im a tight ass

Remove tanks and chuck some old nuts and bolts in them, roll the tanks around on the ground and check how clean they are

Also count the nuts and bolts you chuck in the tank, re count taking them out

 

Sounds to me like theres a blockage for sure

Forget all the fancy fuel aditives, they are no substitute for clean tanks and clean fuel

Now 4 layers of cloth rags, a old tee shirt folded over in a funnel and slowly poor your fuel back in, new filters again 

Now prime up and start

If it stops again, stop fiddling and spraying ether

Try starting the truck, while trying to start the truck look at the exhaust, is it smoking, if so what colour is the smoke ??

This gives you a hint of the issue 

 

Good luck

 

Paul

[MACKS]

I to think dirty fuel tanks,can u possibly find a used clean tank for cheep just run it home on one tank?

[67RModel]

On 9/22/2024 at 6:32 PM, alabamaslammer said:

Cranked it with ether and then it died.

 

On 9/22/2024 at 6:32 PM, alabamaslammer said:

I walked back to my truck, got a can of starting fluid, and she fired up with ether so I could pull her off the public road.

Absolutely under no circumstances should you use ether or starting fluid on a Mack ASET engine. It will wipe out the ceramic lifters before you even realized what you did. Big No-No.

Other than that it sounds like a classic fuel starvation issue. If it runs good for a while then it has compression so no issue there. Obviously there are a lot of electronics and an ECM involved on an ASET AI, which could be a culprit, however, from the story you tell it sounds like its running out of fuel. Any indication from the previous owner why they parked and/or sold it?

Edited September 24, 2024 by 67RModel

[Joey Mack]

NO ETHER!!!

[JoeH]

Welcome to the MR688 club! I bought a 2003 MR688S with the AI350  almost 3 years ago and I love it! Except for the ride. It is rough on your back on highways.  Tires likely aren't rated for more than 60mph, I had one come apart when I was doing 68 mph on my way back to PA from Iowa after getting a new volumetric concrete mixer body put on it.  Personally I'd get the truck towed home, I wouldn't drive it.  

Fuses are all in the center console, there *should* be a decal in there telling which fuse is where, but I'm sure it's missing.  Worth it's weight in gold is a flashdrive, Mack part number 23-021. It's available through the Mack eMedia website.  I got it through my local Mack Dealer but I had to talk him into the EMedia site so he could see what I was talking about about.  Listed as a DVD, it's a program with wiring diagram for every Mack chassis model from like 2001 to 2021.  

You can use Killem, but that doesn't dissolve the algae.  You have some work to do to get clean fuel.  You could also have a piece of trash floating around in the tank, getting sucked into the pickup tube occasionally.  

Active engine codes can be pulled out on the fly by holding the set/decel cruise control switch down for a second while the main on/off cruise rocker is off.  It'll blink out a 2 digit code telling you what the fault is.  

I hope you got the truck for a steal, trash trucks of this vintage are mostly falling apart. We got lucky finding ours with good frame rails at 24,000+ hours and 414,000 miles.  We pulled the frame out of ours and separated/sand blasted/painted them to clear up the rust jacking.

[67RModel]

9 hours ago, JoeH said:

Personally I'd get the truck towed home, I wouldn't drive it.  

Yea I didn't want to sound like a $hithead but honestly after 3 trips from Georgia to Tennessee, the hotels, parts, Lost time not working and potentially breaking down half way home he'd probably be money ahead or money equal to just have it towed. Like what's your time worth?

[JoeH]

Id like to know what the intermittent codes are. Hook up your computer and look them up. If your vmac III software doesn't work, DieselLaptop's Diesel Explorer 2.0 program gets the job done for me. 

[Jody Scott]

Do you have a friend with a lowboy?

[JoeH]

47 minutes ago, Jody Scott said:

Do you have a friend with a lowboy?

Too tall for a lowboy, trash trucks are pretty well maxed out on 13'6".

[Geoff Weeks]

I used to have tank venting problems in the real cold temps (below 0 f) , the vent would ice over on the non-draw side and prevent cross-over. cracking the cap would allow the tanks to equalize, it was surprising that it would hold almost the full amount of fuel in that one tank, while the other was almost empty.

 Be sure that what you are hearing is not just the fuel syphoning back to the tank when the seal is broken at the filter head, there is no "foot valve" on the fuel pick-up in most all cases. If in fact it is a venting problem that is easy to solve.

[mrsmackpaul]

If it was me I wouldn't worry about what any previous owner says may or may not be wrong 

I can understand the previous owner doesn't want any involvement, just get it off their place

It is no longer their problem, it is now your truck, your problem 

All of that been said, maybe think about getting a jerry can and some hose and just run your supply and return out of that

If you can make the truck run fine from that, you know the problem is in the tank or the hoses connected to the tank

 

Paul

 

 

[JoeH]

I second the alternate fuel tank test. Throw a few gallons in a 5g bucket and dip the hoses in.  Put fresh filters on it and try running it.

[JoeH]

How many hours/miles are on this truck? Title says it sat for 15 years. That means they parked it in 2009??? It's a 2004 truck, if it got parked that young in its life id suspect this truck may have been a lemon... Doesn't mean we can't fix out whats going on, but it does give a little insight into things...

[JoeH]

It also means it's likely missing some software updates and recall fixes.  One example is coolant can wick along the coolant level sensor wires the the EECU and corrode the EECU pins.  There's a short jumper pigtail that has sealant embedded in the wire strands to fix this problem.

The diesel explorer program gives you a lot of live data while driving.  It'll tell you what your throttle position % is and what the output fueling is.

[JoeH]

Also being a 2004, this will have the AI350 motor, which uses restrictive exhaust manifold/turbo to create exhaust back pressure to feed exhaust back into the engine when an extra exhaust lobe on the cam bumps the exhaust valve open on the intake stroke.  Primitive EGR system that you can delete by getting the exhaust manifold and turbo from a pre-ASET engine.  2003 was the changeover year on this. So you'd want to target 2002 MR688 for manifold/turbo part numbers.

[JoeH]

Also not sure anyone's picked up on them, but those 2 dalmatians are good looking dogs!

[JoeH]

Sounds like there's some unresolved lemon issues going on, it only lasted 16k miles on that rebuild til they got fed up with it. Hopefully some old timers on here will be able to chime in.  I'd get a hold of every Tech Service Bulletin you can get your hands on.

This engine should be CCRS which is Current Controlled Rate Shaping.  Basically the EUPs get fired in 2 phases, an initial one to start the burn and a second phase to complete the full injection quantity.  Pre CCRS trucks just fired the EUP in one shot. EUPs are not interchangeable. Heads are also different, the pre CCRS I believe used a leak off line from the heads, the CCRS do not.  

[mowerman]

20 hours ago, JoeH said:

Also not sure anyone's picked up on them, but those 2 dalmatians are good looking dogs!

Hell, I didn’t even notice the damn things I had to scroll back to see what you were talking about ha ha thanks for that but kind of following this. I really don’t have any advice, for this  guy. Oh, I could think of except for the obvious everybody has already brought up. Maybe the fuel pump was dried out too long damage. The pistons inside last one I bought was $2500 exchange and that was 40 years ago. 237 Maxidyne 

[terry]

5 hours ago, JoeH said:

Sounds like there's some unresolved lemon issues going on, it only lasted 16k miles on that rebuild til they got fed up with it. Hopefully some old timers on here will be able to chime in.  I'd get a hold of every Tech Service Bulletin you can get your hands on.

This engine should be CCRS which is Current Controlled Rate Shaping.  Basically the EUPs get fired in 2 phases, an initial one to start the burn and a second phase to complete the full injection quantity.  Pre CCRS trucks just fired the EUP in one shot. EUPs are not interchangeable. Heads are also different, the pre CCRS I believe used a leak off line from the heads, the CCRS do not.  

Sure alot different than the old simple two  valve mack engine! they would run forever with a little maintenence.   terry

Edited September 28, 2024 by terry

[JoeH]

In case I didn't mention it, the EUPs push over 24,000 psi through the metal lines going to the head.  DO NOT crack them to do cylinder cut out tests!! You will poison yourself with diesel fuel.  Instead, you just undo one of the wires going to the EUP by loosening the screw and pulling the eyelet off the screw head. Screws are not meant to come all the way out. You will likely get a spark, no big deal.  This will turn that EUP off, so you can see if said EUP is firing. If it doesn't affect the idle then it's not firing.

[tjc transport]

and you can get eup's that will not fire at cold idle, but work fine once the engine is warmed up, or rpm's are raised. 

i had one on the 05 427 like that.