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10 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

pic of the dash and crossmembers in frame would help narrow it down, horns on a pedestal, old style mirror brackers and windshield motor under dash put it at a 58 and older.

My mirror brackets are just like the ones in your picture.

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that truck is a 56 57 or 58. cast brake pedal and the dash is normal. plus it has the old style huge hand brake and fuel guage reads 1/4 1/2 3/4, they got rid of that guage around 59

 

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10 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

that truck is a 56 57 or 58. cast brake pedal and the dash is normal. plus it has the old style huge hand brake and fuel guage reads 1/4 1/2 3/4, they got rid of that guage around 59

 

Awesome!  Thanks so much for this information.  The official work begins this weekend when we roll her into the shop.  The "crew" is ready to get that Thermodyne running!

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22 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

that truck is a 56 57 or 58. cast brake pedal and the dash is normal. plus it has the old style huge hand brake and fuel guage reads 1/4 1/2 3/4, they got rid of that guage around 59

 

My truck was sold to me as a 62 but the seller was not sure. The serial number falls right in the middle of the ones posted in the registry as 59 so I'm assuming mine is a 59. Mine has the same hand brake and fuel gauge as in the quote but a stamped steel  brake pedal 

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Got the truck in the shop over the weekend. Tonight we got her up on jack stands, took off the wheels and got to work.  Our understanding is that the truck had run within the last handful of years.  No reason not to believe the person we bought it from as we have a good working relationship.  Someone had done some work in recent years (evidence including fresh fluids, spark plugs, etc..) but it had been outside exposed to the elements when we purchased it.

Tonight we confirmed that the air system can hold air with just some minor leaks (still all copper lines) and we managed to get all the brakes working!  Oil is clean and good.  Coolant in the block and radiator, drained a full 5 gallons.  Tranny fluid clean and good.  Everything looked promising...but...engine is stuck. Won't budge. 😳😖😳 Ughhh...not what we wanted to find. When the guys turned the crank with a bar on location before I made the purchase, we think they might have just turned the nut (of course couldn't really see by the radiator and shroud at the time.  She's not budging.

We've put Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders tonight.

Advice??  Anyone had experience freeing up an old Thermodyne 540 (?) (Is this the only option for the gasoline engine in this vintage - mid to late 50's?)

We removed the governor from the passenger side of the engine block (was next to the carburetor).  That was free, not bound up.  

Let the MMO work?  Hate to break into this block without a rebuild kit. 

Thanks in advance for your ideas.

DSC_0734.jpg

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 KROIL   expensive stuff `about 60 bucks a gallon  about 1/2 teacup in each cyl wait 2-3 days  heavy duty pry bar in the fly wheel provided  you can get to it`` back&forth prying  it will come loose

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A lot of people make up a tool out of a old starter motor by welding a bar to the armature or shaft of the starter to put a lot of controlled force on the motor

Or using a pinch bar on the ring gear if you have access 

Or chuck the wheels back on and have it in top gear and just tow it and drop the clutch 

Paul 

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On 10/9/2020 at 10:26 PM, Maddog13407 said:

12 v positive ground unless something was changed

I know all of the ones we had were 12V positive ground, but some had a 24V starting circuit.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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I dunno about the governor been needed

If it's like ones of seen on other makes it wont be needed but I have never seen yours so I have no idea sorry 

Great news about the motor not been seized

Paul

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Good News: We got her running tonight!  Enough to feel confident about proceeding with the project.

Wondering if anyone knows about or has exhaust and intake manifolds for this engine??  Both of mine are cracked.  My husband is a master welder and welding instructor and isn't confident that they can be welded.  

Here's the gallery I'm building of our progress.  I'll upload pictures from tonight sometime tomorrow.

https://sjcreativevt.pixieset.com/skippymack/

Thanks for the lead on spark plugs @Maddog13407!

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How bad are the cracks, a photo will help

Inlet doesnt get very hot so maybe just grind it out and use some 2 pack epoxy to plug up the crack, it only has to be air tight 

The exhaust if it was mine and I couldn't find a good manifold I would just make a header up for it, probably in two bits because the motor is fairly long

Or find a good manifold, we never had many petrol Macks in Australia,Im guessing the State's is different but manifolds seem to be a weak point in the U.S., guessing the extreme cold and the heat dont help

 

Good look and I enjoyed looking at the photos 

Thank you

 

Paul 

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