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Mack EM6 237 to 315 horsepower?


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13 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Takes more then turning screw in the pump.  I would already have done my 237.  You'll need turbo, injectors and intercooler.

It will take all of these parts plus someone that knows how to size the parts and do the work. Once you past 300hp piston cooling is a must to have it live. The 237 is not piston cooler equipped. 

Better to get a 300+ or a 350 and save a lot of time and money in the end.

Edited by AZB755V8
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I will get you some numbers from an AMBAC pump book today to have your injection pump calibrated to. Your existing pump will have 11mm plungers and barrels, and the existing injectors should recalibrate to match the new pump output characteristics with minor parts replacement. I will also include the injector numbers suited to the pump output you will be emulating. It is getting difficult to obtain some of the parts for the governor section, but a good pump shop can build/modify existing parts to work. If doing the work yourself, be careful following internet advise as there is much erroneous in nature posted routinely. The turbocharger would best be changed as the "mapping" of the original is incorrect for the recalibration. However, it would still work in the application.

What transmission are you running? A five or a six speed would best be replaced with a nine, 10, or 13 speed with the revamped power output of the engine although either of the aforementioned will work.

This work you are wanting to accomplish is not something you do in a bench vise with a hammer, screwdriver, pliers, and crescent wrench, but will require a fuel shop or you stand a real good chance of a short lived engine.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hace 7 minutos, Rob dijo:

Te conseguiré algunos números de un libro de bombas AMBAC hoy para calibrar tu bomba de inyección. Su bomba existente tendrá símbolos y barriles de 11 mm, y los inyectores afectados deben recalibrarse para que coincidan con las nuevas características de salida de la bomba con el reemplazo de piezas menores. También incluimos los números de inyector específicos para la salida de la bomba que emulará. Se está volviendo difícil obtener algunas piezas para la sección del gobernador, pero un buen taller de bombas puede construir / modificar las piezas modificadas para que funcionen. Si hace el trabajo usted mismo, tenga cuidado de seguir los consejos de Internet, ya que hay muchas cosas erróneas publicadas de manera rutinaria.El turbocompresor cambiará mejor y el "mapeo" del original es incorrecto para la recalibración. Sin embargo, aún funciona en la aplicación.

¿Qué transmisión estás ejecutando? Una velocidad de cinco o seis sería mejor reemplazada por una de nueve, 10 o 13 velocidades con la potencia de salida renovada del motor, aunque cualquiera de los mismos funcionará.

Este trabajo que desea realizar no es algo que haga en una prensa de banco con un martillo, destornillador, alicates y una llave inglesa, pero requerirá un alcalde de combustible o tendrá una muy buena posibilidad de tener un motor de corta duración. I had read in a previous post in this blog that it was only enough to swear a screw in the back of the pump to increase the passage of fuel and thus raise it 

 

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You can just turn the nut on the rack a couple flats to add fuel, but that will not get you to 315 hp.  You need to add enough air to increase the overall power and not burn the engine up from just a bunch more fuel.

My 237 was a bit low on heat on a long pull.  I adjusted the nut on the rack a few flats and I saw the pyrometer increase slightly(still under 1100 degrees).

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Not likely.  A 237 only runs 15# of boost. I've hot tanked it so i know its clean.  Id like to upgrade to paper filter some time.  Need to find a small ss donaldson and make it fit.

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Dang Tom...30#!!   Nice.  I'd like to have that much.  I should have updated mine when I had it rebuilt.   Do you have a part number for yours?  I know we've talked about it before, but don't recall you mentioning those kind of boost numbers.  Might be something I look into?  You know, just because.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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18 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Dang Tom...30#!!   Nice.  I'd like to have that much.  I should have updated mine when I had it rebuilt.   Do you have a part number for yours?  I know we've talked about it before, but don't recall you mentioning those kind of boost numbers.  Might be something I look into?  You know, just because.

A little Borg Warner AirWerks S300 or S400 would give you way more than 30 psi. for less than $1000 new. Even if you go with the same size intake turbine as you got now. I've been using them for a while with real good results. I can peg the 60 psi Boost Gage easily. Only can't keep it there for to long. Coolant temp and Pyro heat up on a few long pulls out in AZ & California. Just have to ease out of it a little to cool down then lay into it again. No downshifting required.

As mentioned before, there has to be a little matching with turbo, pump and injectors to make it all work.

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It did but the turbocharger was "mapped" to provide the needed air at lower rpm's of the engine. That is where the imbalance of adjusting the fuel limit screw can burn them up. The engine starves for needed air for both cooling and combustion. They get hot quick when overfueled. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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