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Adapter Removal


ff6cav

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Start soaking it.  I would then start fabbing up some kind of homemade wrench to get ahold of the adapter out around the pins.  That way you can't hurt the adapter itself.  Some pipe with notches cut to fit the pins?   Weld it to something you can use a 1" breaker bar on, or just weld a long bar on?  Then heat and start turning.

 

What is the adapter size?  Big diameter?  Length?  Pin sizes?  If you can't make it, maybe someone come up with pieces to help.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Soak, soak, soak, apply heat, beat on the end of the wrench with a reasonable sized hammer or use an impact. If you get it to loosen, add more penetrating oil and tighten it back up. Back and forth seems to let the penetrating oil get in there and start to crumble the rust. Don't get too excited if it feels like it's coming off, keep working it back and forth instead of trying to just spin it out.

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For penetrating oil, try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone. Best stuff I've ever used. Shake before using cause it will not stay mixed. Give a shot couple times a day before you set in to heating and beating. Another method is to heat adaptor hot enough to melt a candle. Apply candle to back side of adaptor similar to sweating a copper joint. Wax will be sucked into threads. Next, take your wife shopping for the rest of the afternoon. By the time you get back, everything will be back to room temperature and you can start the twisting, beating part of the project. The solid wax helps lubricate the threads enough to get apart.

Good luck!1

 

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On 7/26/2019 at 9:48 PM, fuzzy buzzard said:

For penetrating oil, try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone. Best stuff I've ever used. Shake before using cause it will not stay mixed. Give a shot couple times a day before you set in to heating and beating. Another method is to heat adaptor hot enough to melt a candle. Apply candle to back side of adaptor similar to sweating a copper joint. Wax will be sucked into threads. Next, take your wife shopping for the rest of the afternoon. By the time you get back, everything will be back to room temperature and you can start the twisting, beating part of the project. The solid wax helps lubricate the threads enough to get apart.

Good luck!1

 

Best wax is from  plumbers candle , high parafin content. Aside from my grandpa and dad and I using that method you're one of the few others  :)

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Sometimes a set screw is put into the adapter to keep it from turning as the sleeve is removed. Check around the adapter to make sure that is not the case. And looking at the pic it looks like a screw or pin at the 6 o'clock position which may be just that.

That is brass; keep the heat low on the brass or it may come off in a way you did not want.

You may be able to find a hydrant wrench with the pin style hooks on it that will fit the ears on the adapter. Given how close the adapter is to the sheet metal you may have to drill a small hole in the adapter where the threads are to get the penetrating oil in.

Even though it seems counter intuitive to heat and expand the pipe that the adapter is screwed on to that is what I would do. Heat it, let it cool, oil it up, let it stand for a while and try it. Do it again if its still stuck. As the ferrous part expands and contracts it will break up the rust that is holding it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by fxfymn

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