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U-joint with 4 caps..change out


hatcity

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I've done the u-joints with caps and straps with little problem....helps to have a Tiger tool

I may end up changing one with all caps

how do you take them apart?

truck is a 2002, so don't know if original or not

thanks , Ed

Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian

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YOUR U-JOINT IS ALL CAPS? Sorry, just couldn't resist. Do the caps have 2 bolts in them? If so, pull the bolts out and try smacking on the yoke where it's welded to the driveshaft tube (be careful, don't hit any important parts). If it's stuck, you can either use a u-joint puller or beat it out with a sledge hammer. You have to be careful with a sledge that you don't dent the driveshaft or bend the yoke.

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2 hours ago, hatcity said:

I've done the u-joints with caps and straps with little problem....helps to have a Tiger tool

I may end up changing one with all caps

how do you take them apart?

truck is a 2002, so don't know if original or not

thanks , Ed

I have a "Tiger Tool" and it works great. Remove the bolts, push the joint to the extreme of one direction, tap with a chisel and remove that cap, flip the tiger tool and pull the joint fully the other direction. You can now remove the "cross" of the joint easily and a punch readily removes the cap from the other end of the yoke.

That is on a driveline I wish to put back together without changing the joint. One that is expended I just blow the cross out of it with a torch, warm the ears of the yoke just a bit, and push the caps out with a drift pin and hammer.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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These were made in 1945 and went out relatively easy. And with no heat. Good thing someone greased the shafts in the past. Probably the last time in 1983 though. Pretty sure nobody ever removed the caps after they got in place at the factory.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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5 hours ago, alex g said:

I put jack under yolk and Jack it up enough to have pressure on it and give it a hit with a sledgehammer. Sometimes use heat with that too if there stubborn.

Used to do it that way too but the Tiger tools make the job much simpler and never damage anything.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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thanks all. had a feeling that would have to knock out caps before anything else.

Comes with the territory.

Will put a dab of nevr-seize around yoke before install

Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian

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They are now selling direct again. I purchased a lot in December of 2007 and they quite selling direct on 1,1,2008. The resalers jacked the pricing up through the roof and their sales plummeted. What is old is new again. Ask for a discount if you are a professional trucker or repair facility.

 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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dont' get an OTC puller although they are less money. Seen four, (yes four) with broken puller jaws myself. Never seen a broken Tiger Tool although my #102 is getting to need a new pulling jaw. Some of those drivelines are TIGHT to get apart.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Doesn't look seated on the right land to me. Yoke stretch or spread can cause that.

Don't like working with those too much either. I always take a 5" grinder with a twisted wire brush, (very stiff) and clean the ears and seating area of the caps well so the new joint aligns easier before drawing it down.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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What you will see with wear, (and the angle of the photo appears to display) is the right side land for the joint, (looking from rear towards front) is a gap. All the torque is absorbed through the right side of the universal joint mounting flange. As those flanges wear or stretch, or twist, this happens and you usually here the damage as a "knock" in the driveline between upshifts sometimes but moreso as a knock when transitioning from forward to reverse, vice versa. Slips and spline wears sound similar but higher pitched usually.

Edited by Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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