Lmackattack Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 On my 77'RS700L My core rusted at the bottom and started leaking so I know I need a new core but I Think I will also need a new bottom tank as well? My lower tank is aluminum and it also acts as the lower mount where it secures to the frame cross member. it looks as if some point in its life someone must have put too long of mounting bolts in it and thus it cracked/pushed thru to the tanks chamber? I say this because When I removed the mounting bolts today a bunch of teflon tape came with them along with all the coolant at the bottom of the tank. was this normal on these aluminum tanks to have the mounting bolts protrude into the water passage. or did it get punched thru with to long of a bolt??? Anyone have a good lower tank for a western? Trent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Got any pics of the said part? Ive seen one in here a long time ago but I need a refresh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1958 F.W.D. Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I cannot believe that was designed like that.......My vote is someone goofed and ran with it and added the teflon.... Quote TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Yeah I remember it being weird. I was wondering wether you could cut the original mount down, maybe add some brackets and slot a standard radiator in place? With out pics it's hard to say... It won't be original but sometimes functional beats originality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hobert62 Posted May 14, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted May 14, 2017 5 minutes ago, Timmyb said: It won't be original but sometimes functional beats originality. I agree 100% but others will not. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranchhopper Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I have a radiator from my western R sitting in the shed if you need parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 5 hours ago, ranchhopper said: I have a radiator from my western R sitting in the shed if you need parts. I would be looking for a lower tank if its too messed up to fix. Thanks for the offer and Yes, I will keep you posted . thank you Trent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Finally had time to pull the Radiator out of the truck and get the lower tank off. As suspected both holes were punched thru into the lower tank. In the pic of the inside of the tank You can see the 2 domes where the lower water pipe bolts to to keep thats how the mounting bolts holes should look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 I would check with a welding shop to see if they could fix it up. Doesn't look like it would be too bad. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 You will not be able to weld this because of the corrosion that has contaminated the aluminum. Two thoughts; use a bolt from inside the tank turning the mount into a stud instead of a bolt. That way you would be able to adequately seal up the bolt head. Another option would be to use gray Marine-Tex or JB Weld to seal up the hole. I'd go with the through bolt if it were mine and reinforce it with Marine-Tex or JB Weld and maybe epoxy it into the tank to keep it from turning as well. And of course if you want to spend the money you can have a new tank cast. Probably in the three to four hundred dollar range for the casting and machining. I use Cattail Foundry in PA. 1 Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurstscrambler Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Not to disagree, because it may not work, but sometimes you can weld stuff like this, I'd try it. I would media blast it and grind the area needing to be welded, than put some heat to it and then blast and grind again. To me it would be worth a shot, but Id try to find a guy who is used to welding contaminated metals (fuel tanks come to mind). Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Depending on the situation, welding may be doable or not. I had several cracks welded on the aluminum radiator tanks for my 1959 B-75 about 8 years ago. Knock on wood, no discernible issues. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobert62 Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 For what its worth... A buddy of mine that welds has a hand held blast gun that he uses baking soda in to clean dirty aluminum. Ive never welded aluminum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 If you try welding I would have a latex pattern of the tank made first. That way if the welding trashes the tank you can have a new one cast. Latex molding supplies are widely available on the net. My philosophy on stuff like this "is do no harm" to what maybe a very difficult part to replace since most used tanks are probably going to have corrosion issues as well. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 That tank bottom would be a fairly straight forward piece to fabricate. You could do it in aluminum or stainless steel. We are fabricators, and have done stuff like this many times.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 On 5/16/2017 at 8:24 PM, Lmackattack said: Finally had time to pull the Radiator out of the truck and get the lower tank off. As suspected both holes were punched thru into the lower tank. In the pic of the inside of the tank You can see the 2 domes where the lower water pipe bolts to to keep thats how the mounting bolts holes should look. I would agree with fxyfmn thats beyond any hope of welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 Dropped it off at my local Radator shop today. (Rex radiator Bensenville IL) The Owner knew what kind of mack it was out of before I could tell him . He Even guessed the year right (1977) He said he did alot of these out of valueliner cement trucks and cruise liners. suggested going to a stud mount if he can save the bottom tank.he made mention of going to a 4 row instead of the current 8 row to save some $$$ not sure if I want to do that in case it ever gets a larger engine at some point of its life. he will be getting me pricing on Monday for a re-core and the lower tank mounting hole repair. stay tuned Trent 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Got my Radiator back today. The shop was able to save both upper and lower tanks and put in a new core. they converted the lower tank to a stud mount as suggested. I was able to install it late this afternoon and fingers crossed it wont leak at the studs.... I will need to source some new rubber bushings for the upper mounts as they are dry rotted and cracking off. I had used rods and the rubbers off of a retired 87' R model when I converted my cab to air ride. (best thing I ever did to this truck) I did away with the X brace that previously held the top of radiator to the cab cowl. Took about 2hrs to re fit the radiator in and get the hood back on. not bad considering this would take a full day on these modern plastic trucks. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Nice, glad it worked out. Do you keep a book with the truck that documents changes such as this for succeeding owners? Or in my case for me since I can't remember sh*t anymore. 1 Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Yes I have well written book of all its maintenance.....in fact Its all on the internet if you know where to find it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 What method of repair was done to the lower tank? Welding, epoxy or other? Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 they installed a stud with a heli coil in the tank. they used some form of hi strenth glue/sealant to the stud / heli coil so it wont spin. where the old bolt had punched thru inside the tank they ground it clean and put a weld across the area of the hole to build it up and seal it off. looked fine from what I can see with the bottom pipe off and was cheaper than a new bottom tank. I had known this tank had a issue as 8 years ago as it started leaking from one of the bolt holes. At that time I just pulled the bolt out and put pipe thread on it and put it back in. It held all those years until the core started to leak at the bottom last month. hope this fix will prevent any further issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 OK Thanks. Should be good for another million miles or so. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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