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Big Dog
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steelman last won the day on July 18 2014

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About steelman

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    Fredericksburg, Va.

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    Antique trucks, steam and gas engines, boats, woodworking, antique cars, trains, anything mechanical
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  1. As promised, the AC Mack ater pump shaft sketch. Carey (Steelman) ACMackH2OSHAFT.pdf
  2. I think you would be better off with a new shaft. Alignment off a little will cause big problems. They are pretty easy to make. I will have print tomorrow to you. I may be able to have a couple made, i could use a spare. I have seven AC 's, and a couple of parts chassis, but no extra water pumps or shafts. Been in the hobby 55+ years. Dad had a small truck company, so it was a good fit. Practicing Mechanical Engineer last 48 years, but still like to get my hands dirty. Steelman
  3. These pumps are loaded from both sides, so called balanced loading. Water flows around both sides of the hub, before being pushed out by the pump vanes. You can see the channel on the water pump cover where the water enters the outside around the pipe plugged shaft center. There is usually a flanged bronze bushing in that end to offset the thrust. The other side of the pump housing has a bronze bushing to support the splined end of the pump shaft that sticks thru to engage the coupling that drives the water pump and magneto .(so called cross shaft engine driven pump and magneto). Very so
  4. I have a print of the water pump shaft that i made back in 1974. It is correct di ensionally for the 2nd series pump, and will be happy to share. It will take e a day to dig it out kf my files. I do not have a print on the impellor, but it was a double sided balanced input pump. The bronze impellor in your pjcture doesn't look bad. The bearings werebronze or graphite bronze press in bearings. Just need the hole size, shaft size and length. Ww grainger, Mcmaster Carr or hundreds of others can supp,y those. The packing is graphite impregnated square chevron packing the gland nut tighten
  5. A bar is one barometric pressure, which at sea level is 14.7 psi. To convert bar to psi, you simply multiply 14.7 times the bar number. Therefor (2.5) x (14.7)= 36.75 psi.
  6. Not in North Carolina, but not too far away in Richmond, Virginia, Thurston Spring is an excellent shop that has been here forever. They can do most anything including making new springs. Probably less than 125 miles from Wilmington.
  7. Mad dog, Give me some time (4+/- weeks) to finish recovery, and I will try to get you what I can off my truck. I had a bad accident, four surgeries, and am now recovering (last nine weeks). Right now I cannot even get to my shop to take a picture. I am going crazy sitting still, but nurses and physical therapy just about every day for a little longer. Send me a PM and I will send info as soon as I can. Carey
  8. I would be I interested I the cab and doors. Hood also if available. Could pickup with gooseneck trailer or rollback if you have a way to load. Please send me pm. Thanks. Carey Leitch, Fredericksburg, Va. (50 miles south of wash., DC)
  9. Do you have access to a good bearing,seal supply House? Given shaft sizes, depth of seal and type of seal (which should be apparent to a good supplier), and you should be back in business in a day or two.
  10. Mad dog, The little B I have is painted Mack green like Tackaberry's. George sold it to a fellow on Cape Cod who had it for years. He had an electric over hydraulic eight foot landscapers dump body put on the rear. He had a little accident with it and dented the front fenders and radiator surround. Sent it back to George to repair, put a patch panel on the bottom of the passenger door and repaint. At some point he decided to sell it, and I bought it and brought it home last year from Maine. I pulled the dump off and have a stepside body going on it like Tack's and the red one. I
  11. Sent you an email with my wish list thank you.
  12. The red B model, like some others mentioned, was built by George Sprowl in Maine 20/25 years ago. They were built on Ford one ton frames with 6bt Cummings engines. The cab, fenders and cowl were cut down to make them look appropriately to scale. I am lucky to have one of them, and love it. He really did an amazing job. I looked at building my own for years, and it is a lot of work. I also looked at dt360 and dt466 engines (I have some of both), and the power, size and parts available with a Cummins 6bt make them hard not to consider. Look at the horsepower, torque, weight and maintenanc
  13. I agree with the 30 or 40 weight engine oil, but do not agree with non detergent. When I started in the hobby 56 years ago I was told detergent oil would wipe out Babbitt bearings, etc. 56 years later, and a mechanical Engineering degree , I have used detergent oil, and it keeps everything cleaner, and have had no bearing break down. No more sludge in the bottom of the sump, etc. The additives I do agree with. In the transmission/ rear end (shaft drive), I use 75w, 90w or 75w-90w oil. Same for steering gear. The magneto wants light weight oil like sewing machine oil (3in 1 oil), and th
  14. Mike Harbison is correct. Mack has built their own engines from the beginning. Mack Juniors and Seniors were Mack designed and built. Being interested in early Macks for the last 55+ years, I have run into many "experts" that called Mack part of IHC and other such rubbish because of the corporate name, International Motor Co. Take a look at the book "Mack" by John Montville someday. Came out in 1974, but they are around. Very well researched and written by a very nice fellow.
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