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steelman last won the day on July 18 2014

steelman had the most liked content!

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About steelman

  • Rank
    BMT Veteran VIP

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Fredericksburg, Va.
  • Interests
    Antique trucks, steam and gas engines, boats, woodworking, antique cars, trains, anything mechanical

Previous Fields

  • Make
  • Model
    AC's, AB, B67, B61, EF
  • Year
  • Other Trucks
    1919 AC,1922 AC,1924 AC,1923 AC, 1925 AC, 1926 AC, 1918 Mack antiaircraft gun trailer,1925 AB, (2) 1925 RUGGLES, 1925 INTERNATIONAL mod. 63,1924 Intl mod. 33, 1917 INTERNATIONAL model F, 1929 FORD PU,1929 Ford AA, 1965 B47 MACK,1965 B67,1965 B61 INTEGRAL SLEEPER, 1962 White 9000, 19?? White compact, 1915(?)GMC, 1948 Mack EF,

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  1. Nice unit. Should do well in your application. The only thing I would have done differently is to keep the LED lighting. They solve 95% of the problems people have with trailers. I would have spent a few hours reversing the ground/power leads at each light. From 1935 to 1977, my dad had a small local truck company. I worked there as a teenager, and most trailer problems involved keeping those darn incandescent lights working.
  2. Carburetor help

    I have had excellent results from Treadwell carburetor Co., 4870 County hwy 14, treadwell, n.y. 13846, 607.829.8321. Nice folks, test everything they work on before shipping. Very reasonable.
  3. Very Good! Glad to see this resolved. Just got my Sept. Issue of Hemming motor news today. It was advertised for sale in this issue for $300,000.00. Wow!
  4. I was surprised and shocked at most of the prices. Gives me hope if I ever decide to sell my stuff! Guess I have reached that "old age" where I think everything is expensive.
  5. I am not too wild about using heat on the frame, as it is heat treated. Same reason you should not weld on them. I have a 1918 truck frame we took apart last year to replace a frame rail, rivets and all. We cut the heads off one side with a cutting wheel in an air powered tool first. We then took an air rivet tool with a punch in it, and pushed them out. It wasn't easy, and it was loud! A few that seemed stuck we drilled out the center of the rivet as described above, then used the air hammer on them and they came out. After that, I cobbled up a 70 ton hydraulic tool to push the rest out, using an old punch and die (we are a steel fab shop). Like I said, I am not fond of heat for this application. We did use heat to put new rivets (5/8" diameter) back in when we put it back together. We heated the rivets up to cherry red, put them in the hole, and banged away on the other end, just like they were put in originally. Just my 2 cents worth.
  6. I have a B47 tandem axle, with the END 465. Tranny is a 12 speed i believe (haven't looked at it in a while). It was a dump truck with a triple frame and had wedge brakes . We pulled it around the yard, and it started right up and ran great. I thought about making it a single axle with cam brakes and putting a 24' Jerr Dan roll back body I have on it (10 ton steel riggers body) to haul my toys. I have some doubts about it having enough power.
  7. AC 4 Cylinder Gasser

    The serial number is on the top of the frame on the left front (drivers side) side.
  8. Billy Fleck, Herbie's son owns this. The frame came from Carl Calvert in California. The engine, as fxfymn points out, is from an early AB. The transmission is an AC Mack 3 speed (early AC). Billy found the id tag on ebay a couple years ago. I believe the fellow in New Jersey with the wonderful collection of early Macks helped him with the solid tires. The plan was to use a modern aluminum radiator to keep the engine cool, with a reproduction brass shell around it so you would not see the modern radiator. Daley and Wanser had one of these trucks in the early years of the moving company, but this is not the original truck. Carl Calvert supplied drawings and sketches of the Mack Senior stage they restored several years ago to help Billy with all this. Billy did a great job figuring all this out, as a tribute to his family early years.
  9. That tank bottom would be a fairly straight forward piece to fabricate. You could do it in aluminum or stainless steel. We are fabricators, and have done stuff like this many times..
  10. Drop axle failure

    I agree, hydrogen fracture, and a very poor weld. It doesn't look like there was any penetration in the weld area.
  11. Armed "resistance"?

    AK74, Hole, chamber, brown and silver bullets, Nazi's, going to get some Navy Seals and Army Rangers??? WoW! I knew a DI that would have loved to meet these guys. How sad.
  12. B61 pickup 4-53T

    That should read and other info at home. I hate spell check!
  13. B61 pickup 4-53T

    Yes, the fellow has a quarry here in Virginia. I have his name another info at home. Steelman
  14. Frame Repair

    Regarding the "step cut" as proposed by David, the two step cuts in the frame are stress risers . Cracks will likely start from these points. More weld is not the answer. The frames are heat treated, and probably 70 to 100,000 psi yield. The weld metal you put in is anywhere from 35,000 to 70,000 maximum (most likely). The patch matrial is either A36 or 50 ksi yield material. You need more material in order to have the splice area not exceed the stress put on it and fail. The area around the weld is called the heat affected zone, and that heat will degrade the strength of the frame in that area. There was an excellent article in wheels of time (american truck historical society, ATHS) magazine last year regarding frame splicing. It had all of the technical matters addressed in easy to understand terms. I will try and find it and post a summation if I can find it.
  15. 1924 Mack

    AB rear wheels were 5 spoke, AC were 7 spoke. The front disc wheels resemble AB front disc wheels. The rear spring hanger is not Mack, AB or AC. The engine does not look like Mack, neither does the water outlet on top or the exhaust manifold.