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steelman

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steelman last won the day on July 18 2014

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    Fredericksburg, Va.

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    Antique trucks, steam and gas engines, boats, woodworking, antique cars, trains, anything mechanical
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  1. Macks are my thing, but i have a few IHC's. 1917 K, 1924 modell 33 and 63, about 1927/8 model 93, 1965 loadmaster (i believe) with a detroit v6 and allison automatic (former us govt truck). Also remnants of a transtar cabover (cummings and tranny-runs). I sold several KB8 and 9's a couple years ago.
  2. Sorry for the late reply. I just saw this. Phil Baumgarten had very high quality reproductions of cab plates, radiatot badges and other items made which he sold to collectors and hobbiest such as myself who owned and restored older Macks. These were 1920's, 30's, 40's and 50's. B model hood and radiator tags were about the newest items he had made. He was very active in the old truck hobby, and quite active in the ATHS. He had moved to Florida, and died about 20 years ago. Very nice fellow and always ready to help anyone. All of the remaining stock was sold to someone who I do not remember. The radiator tag you have was used on the AB Macks from about 1924 on. It may have been used on some other models as well. Phil told me he had them made in Tiawan by a very good company , and he was very careful to be sure the quality was excellent. Not long before he died, he told me the demand for the older items was drying up, and it was getting harder to put together the minimum size orders necessary to have them reproduced. They show up for sale from time to time on ebay, where they sell very quickly. Steelman
  3. That works. I worked a number of years for Dow Chem before starting my own steel fabrication shop. We regularly worked on tanks that had contained very explosive materials. They had protocols to follow which included cleaning and steam clean, sniffing with meter before hot work (welding/cutting),etc. Safety first, always. I would use CO2 or argon bled from a weld bottle to do what TJC transport spoke of on small tanks (50 gal+/-) if i could not find dry ice. Now days, my insurance company won't let us work on any tank that held a flammable material, or even weld on a gasoline powered vehicle.
  4. The serial number of your truck indicates it is a five ton. Serial numbers 10,313,001 to 10,314.000 were built between October 1926 and April 1927. This puts your truck being built in the June/July 1927 time period. The removable head engines, also called high hat engines were introduced in 1928. Your truck should have originally come with a jughead engine. Hope this helps. Steelman
  5. As promised, the AC Mack ater pump shaft sketch. Carey (Steelman) ACMackH2OSHAFT.pdf
  6. I think you would be better off with a new shaft. Alignment off a little will cause big problems. They are pretty easy to make. I will have print tomorrow to you. I may be able to have a couple made, i could use a spare. I have seven AC 's, and a couple of parts chassis, but no extra water pumps or shafts. Been in the hobby 55+ years. Dad had a small truck company, so it was a good fit. Practicing Mechanical Engineer last 48 years, but still like to get my hands dirty. Steelman
  7. These pumps are loaded from both sides, so called balanced loading. Water flows around both sides of the hub, before being pushed out by the pump vanes. You can see the channel on the water pump cover where the water enters the outside around the pipe plugged shaft center. There is usually a flanged bronze bushing in that end to offset the thrust. The other side of the pump housing has a bronze bushing to support the splined end of the pump shaft that sticks thru to engage the coupling that drives the water pump and magneto .(so called cross shaft engine driven pump and magneto). Very solid Engineering, especially for 1915 time period. A F Masury, Chief Engineer and Mr. Hewitt designed and received patent #1,148,774 for this innovation. Packing on that end slows water leakage with a bronze packing nut. The large hex nut seen in the impellor picture is holding the impellor to the pump shaft. There are about 5/8" of fine threads on the shaft this nut engages, and a woodruff key that keeps it from spinning. The shaft is very definately cut or broken off. Without that stub of shaft in a bushing forces on the pump while running would quickly wear the drive end beari g out, causing a massive leak, and further damage. Sorry for the long response. Couldn't help myself. Steelman
  8. I have a print of the water pump shaft that i made back in 1974. It is correct di ensionally for the 2nd series pump, and will be happy to share. It will take e a day to dig it out kf my files. I do not have a print on the impellor, but it was a double sided balanced input pump. The bronze impellor in your pjcture doesn't look bad. The bearings werebronze or graphite bronze press in bearings. Just need the hole size, shaft size and length. Ww grainger, Mcmaster Carr or hundreds of others can supp,y those. The packing is graphite impregnated square chevron packing the gland nut tightens up to slow the leaking. I modified a pu p inthe 70's to use a dripless rotating seal pump packing. It worked great. Steelman
  9. A bar is one barometric pressure, which at sea level is 14.7 psi. To convert bar to psi, you simply multiply 14.7 times the bar number. Therefor (2.5) x (14.7)= 36.75 psi.
  10. Not in North Carolina, but not too far away in Richmond, Virginia, Thurston Spring is an excellent shop that has been here forever. They can do most anything including making new springs. Probably less than 125 miles from Wilmington.
  11. Mad dog, Give me some time (4+/- weeks) to finish recovery, and I will try to get you what I can off my truck. I had a bad accident, four surgeries, and am now recovering (last nine weeks). Right now I cannot even get to my shop to take a picture. I am going crazy sitting still, but nurses and physical therapy just about every day for a little longer. Send me a PM and I will send info as soon as I can. Carey
  12. I would be I interested I the cab and doors. Hood also if available. Could pickup with gooseneck trailer or rollback if you have a way to load. Please send me pm. Thanks. Carey Leitch, Fredericksburg, Va. (50 miles south of wash., DC)
  13. Do you have access to a good bearing,seal supply House? Given shaft sizes, depth of seal and type of seal (which should be apparent to a good supplier), and you should be back in business in a day or two.
  14. Mad dog, The little B I have is painted Mack green like Tackaberry's. George sold it to a fellow on Cape Cod who had it for years. He had an electric over hydraulic eight foot landscapers dump body put on the rear. He had a little accident with it and dented the front fenders and radiator surround. Sent it back to George to repair, put a patch panel on the bottom of the passenger door and repaint. At some point he decided to sell it, and I bought it and brought it home last year from Maine. I pulled the dump off and have a stepside body going on it like Tack's and the red one. I am repainting it and freshening it up. It runs well (5.9 Cummins and automatic) and George put a over,under and direct brownie box behind the auto. You can pull stumps (or trailers) in underdrive, and in overdrive it will really cruise. I am 6', 265 pound, but fit in it easier than I do in a regular B model. Very comfortable, and VERY COOL looking. People notice it. I plan on making it my daily driver after repaint. Re the fenders, he made a lot of cuts and fitting to make them look correct for the smaller tires. The cab is narrowed 4 inches, and the radiator shroud is also narrowed and chopped a few inches. The two front running lights were eliminated when narrowed. The truck is amazingly well proportioned, like 5/8 scale. George did a wonderful job building these. He told me he did six Macks and two Pete's. I am recovering from surgery right now, but would be glad to share Info on it after I recover. Send me a PM with your email..I have an integral sleeper I wanted to modify and put on another little B. The cab is too far gone to restore, but I looked at stretching it and creating a four door. I have the chassis and everything ready to go. The amount of money and time it takes is substantial.. I could probably finish it if I live to 150 years.
  15. Sent you an email with my wish list thank you.
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