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hurstscrambler

1969 International F210D

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Thanks guys, everybody has been telling me the white was a bad move.  I'm trying to match the grey trucks build as much as possible, and that truck was originally Alpine White, the grey exterior was done later.  So white it is, I admit it is brighter than I was expecting.  I'm very happy with what is happening, but I wish it was going a little faster, and costing alot less $.  Does anyone have a good source for getting pot metal emblems restored?  Andy

Edited by hurstscrambler

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yes the big al as it was called came in grape purple only

Those were called purple people eaters- and if you didn't warm one up-they were known for sticking pistons.

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Hmmmm........ a Chebby gasser.

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On 9/7/2017 at 10:23 PM, hurstscrambler said:

Thanks guys, everybody has been telling me the white was a bad move.  I'm trying to match the grey trucks build as much as possible, and that truck was originally Alpine White, the grey exterior was done later.  So white it is, I admit it is brighter than I was expecting.  I'm very happy with what is happening, but I wish it was going a little faster, and costing alot less $.  Does anyone have a good source for getting pot metal emblems restored?  Andy

I don't know a bout a "good source", since they are pretty expensive, but Paul's Chrome will do an excellent job for you. http://www.paulschrome.com/

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Good luck with it. Pauls is among the best I worked with. 

I'm sure you already are doing this, but the best bet is to keep on eBay to find emblems that are in better shape. 

A last ditch effort would be fill the defects with clay, and use the emblems you have as molds to get them cast in brass. If you miss a spot or two the casting will be "proud" of the base and can be removed to make it right. A quick cheap home solution would be to use one of the latex casting kits to cast test sets out of resin to see if you can fix the defects by sanding or filing off the excess. The latex positives could then be used to cast the brass items. Casting results in a small percentage of shrinking, but given the small size of the emblems I don't think it will be noticeable.

Cattail Foundry in PA can do the casting and they are pretty reasonable.

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I had some badly pitted pot metal ( irreplaceable 5 band radio pieces )  done for my 41chevy Cabriolet by Browns Plating in Kentucky. They used conductive  epoxy to fix the parts, show chrome and guaranteed it against failure.

Edited by 41chevy
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Brown's was a family business with the Mother, Father, two Son's and a Daughter working at the production facility every day for over 55 years. they closed in 2015.

Cab looks great!  What are you doing with wiring new or reusing the original?  Paul

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It's definitely a bummer when places like that go out of business, it gets harder and harder to find quality craftsmanship with limited options.  I got an American autowire universal kit for the truck, I'm impressed with it although I haven't installed it yet.  I put a painless kit in my AMX and it was ok, but it was expensive and to me not as well engineered.  Andy

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Thanks for the advice guys, I ended sending the chrome to Paul's , it is due back this Friday so I will be posting the results

You'll like it or they will do it again. Paul's stands behind their work.

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To say things have been moving slow would be an understatement, but there has been progress.  I got the chrome back from Pauls and they did do a very nice job.  I couldn't be happier, some of the emblems I gave then to work with were in awful condition.  I applied Dynamat to the inside of the cab, I got the door latches in and working.  I was able to put the horns and running lights on, as well as getting the luberfiner all cleaned up and installed.  My buddy and I mounted the visor which went surprisingly well, but I still have some fitment issues to overcome.  I remade all of the auxillary shifter linkages and it seems to work pretty well.  I was also able to pull the water pump off the engine and brought it up to Mahoney's in Brentwood, NH so they could swap the pulley out for me.  Let me say that those two brothers up there are about as friendly and knowledgable as people come.  I believe J Hancock sent me to them for some info at some point and he was right on.  

At this point I'm becoming more concerned about the air line plumbing situation, I would really like a diagram of the way this truck rolled off the assembly line.  I made a pretty good schematic when I took the truck apart, but it had been bastardized so much that I doubt anything related to the trailer will function properly.  Im definitely replacing every line, and planned on replacing all the valves.  The only difficulty in replacing all the valves is I would like to keep the old style valves and contols that were in the cab, as I think they contribute to the style of the truck.  I would hate to put the plastic valve assembly in, but if it is what needs to be done I will.  

I will try to get some pictures up today.  Thanks, Andy

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What if you used a schematic from a Mack of that era? I've seen one on BMT before.

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Sorry for the delay with pictures, I've been getting so little done it's depressing.  I'm hoping to spend some time on it this weekend.  The schematic from another make truck may be helpful.  Here are some pictures of the dash valves, I'm not clear how the dash mounted tractor protection valve is supposed to work.  Andy

IMG_20180625_211832.jpg

IMG_20180625_211922.jpg

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The Tractor Protection valve limits or disables the front brakes. My I.H. farm unit has it as Wet / Dry Brake Control. Theory was it would prevent jack knifes on wet roads. Thats from the age of OTR's have no front brakes at all.    Paul

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This is where I get confused, I have the Dry Road/Slippery Road switch, as well as the "Truck Tractor Protection" flip style valve.  One side is labeled NORMAL the other side says "EMERGENCY'.  Then on the other side of the dash I have 2 push- pull style valves, one I pushed in to move the tractor as you would suspect and I presume the other was for airing up the trailer.  The system was cannablized when I got the truck because it hadn't been used as a tractor since at least the mid 80's. Things were disconnected, plugged and in general disrepair, I made a good drawing of the existing system but I think it will have me chasing my tail due to all the uncertainties.  Thanks, Andy

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8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

The Tractor Protection valve limits or disables the front brakes. My I.H. farm unit has it as Wet / Dry Brake Control. Theory was it would prevent jack knifes on wet roads. Thats from the age of OTR's have no front brakes at all.    Paul

So the tractor protection valve turns off or limits the air to the front brakes what exactly does the dry/slippery road valve do? 

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The tractor protection valve is the valve that would supply air to the trailer system/ release trailer brakes." Red knob"     It protects the tractors air supply if the trailer line is broken and lets to much sir escape.   Causes red knob to pop out.    Sounds like someone added the push style knobs and left the flipper valves in place.  Normal would send air through the red airline to the trailer and flip to emergency would shut the air off going to the trailer.  

I think...

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44 minutes ago, Hobert62 said:

The tractor protection valve is the valve that would supply air to the trailer system/ release trailer brakes." Red knob"     It protects the tractors air supply if the trailer line is broken and lets to much sir escape.   Causes red knob to pop out.    Sounds like someone added the push style knobs and left the flipper valves in place.  Normal would send air through the red airline to the trailer and flip to emergency would shut the air off going to the trailer.  

I think...

That would make alot of sense I suppose, but everything still was connected.  Also both push pull valve appear original as well, they share a bracket and have IH branding on them.  Sorry for the bad pic but it might help.  Andy

IMG_20180629_090444.jpg

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Yes, my B still has the flip valve that controls the TP1 valve and you leave it in EMERGENCY to run bobtail.   Then flip to Normal when you hook to a trailer.

The dry/wet road is a control valve for the regulator for the front brakes.   Putting it to WET would limit the air pressure going to the front brakes, keeping it from locking in wet weather.

That push valve is for parking only(tractor maxi brakes).  Nothing to do with the other valves.

I can't tell what the upper control is?

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That makes sense, the upper push valve is for the tractor, I assumed the lower would have just been for the trailer.  I think the air system is going to be the most challenging part of the truck for me because of how little I know about them.  Thanks for all the replys, it is very helpful.  Andy

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