Timmyb Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Hi guys, has anyone had any experience with repairing or replacing the quills/spindles on mack diffs?I have pulled apart an old diff and the bearing has only slightly started wearing the quills. On the inner bearing there is probably a 1mm lip and outer bearing is only the slightest little lip forming. I can get it re-quilled for $2000 for one side or $3800 for both sides.Or I can get it metal sprayed for a lot less, but some guys have questioned metal spraying.Interested to hear your experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Whats a quill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 It might be an Australian term, it's the part of the diff that the hub bearings sit on and has the thread on the end for bearing load and hole in the middle for axle.Is there another way of referring to it so more people will understand what I'm talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGarofalo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Called a spindle in the US. I've had a few repaired. Cost me about $700 per spindle to cut off the old and weld in new. Never had any issues with the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b61mack Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Axle Surgeons do that kind of work, they do brake spiders too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Called a spindle in the US. I've had a few repaired. Cost me about $700 per spindle to cut off the old and weld in new. Never had any issues with the process.Now that I know what a quill is, have seen it done in the shop where I work by a guy with a portable setup.Seems it was about twice the 700.00 price . Was done to a couple of trucks with no problems. terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Ive had the older 44s where its pressed in change by a mobile shop buy using dry ice hydraulic portable press 800.00$ after market was half the price of M%$K . Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGarofalo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I should clarify. It costs me $700 because I remove the housing and drop it off at the repair shop. Mobile services for my area is about twice the price. Axle Surgeons came out and did a buddy of mines trailer on the side of the road. Remove and replace 1 spindle. Charged him $3500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Thanks for the response, this is on a cast iron 44 and to me it looks like it's pressed in. The quill/spindles alone will cost me $770 plus however much to get them installed.Metal spraying is completely new to me, but I don't know how wear resistant it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Won't the Quills/ Spindles after they are metal sprayed have to be machined to fit the inner race and seal? So it wouldn't it still need to be removed and reinstalled? Paul Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Won't the Quills/ Spindles after they are metal sprayed have to be machined to fit the inner race and seal? So it wouldn't it still need to be removed and reinstalled? PaulGood point. I'll ask and find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m16ty Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes, you will have to do machine work after metal spraying. More than likely they have a portable machine for this if needed.I don't think building up with spray metal and machining down would be a problem unless it is really worn. Really all you are doing is holding the inner race of the bearing and there shouldn't be any wear because the race isn't supposed to move. If there is wear there, it's either caused by a bearing failure or running the bearings way too loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 can you use a sleeve or speedy sleeve? or wear sleeve http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/seals/industrial/products/Pages/wearsleeves.aspx 1 Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Well the diff is out of the truck so I can run it anywhere I need to. It's got about 1mm wear, or 0.04inch but while its out of the truck I wanna get it fixed. A wear or speedy sleeve sounds perfect for this. I'm surprised none of the engineering shops mentioned it when I called them? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Timmy now that I know what your talking about I speedy sleeved mine 58,000 pounds no problems 9 years later Gleeman parts sell the speedy sleeve in the kit with seal so fairly commonIf the spindle is really stuffed you can just fill it up with bog and sand back smooth and then put the sleeve on that way the sleeve has support have done this no more problems either way a lot cheaper than a few grand I always put speedy sleeves on with loctite so I dont get any weeping between the sleeve and shaft Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Timmy now that I know what your talking about I speedy sleeved mine 58,000 pounds no problems 9 years later Gleeman parts sell the speedy sleeve in the kit with seal so fairly commonIf the spindle is really stuffed you can just fill it up with bog and sand back smooth and then put the sleeve on that way the sleeve has support have done this no more problems either way a lot cheaper than a few grand I always put speedy sleeves on with loctite so I dont get any weeping between the sleeve and shaft PaulYour a legend Paul! My local Gleemans blokes are really good guys, so I'll get them on the case. If I have any dramas I might see if you can get the part number your Gleemans guys to help my guys out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Well the diff is out of the truck so I can run it anywhere I need to.It's got about 1mm wear, or 0.04inch but while its out of the truck I wanna get it fixed.A wear or speedy sleeve sounds perfect for this. I'm surprised none of the engineering shops mentioned it when I called them?Don't make money on it, same as state side. Now, what is "bog"? Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post m16ty Posted January 10, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted January 10, 2016 Well the diff is out of the truck so I can run it anywhere I need to. It's got about 1mm wear, or 0.04inch but while its out of the truck I wanna get it fixed. A wear or speedy sleeve sounds perfect for this. I'm surprised none of the engineering shops mentioned it when I called them?I thought you were talking about where the bearings ride. If it's just the seal surface, yes use the speedy sleeve.Edit- are we talking wear where the bearings ride or the seal? Going back and looking at the original post, you say bearings. A speedy sleeve works great for seal surfaces but won't work for bearing surfaces. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Don't make money on it, same as state side. Now, what is "bog"?bog is what we call body filler they use on panels etc 2 pack stuff Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 I thought you were talking about where the bearings ride. If it's just the seal surface, yes use the speedy sleeve.Edit- are we talking wear where the bearings ride or the seal? Going back and looking at the original post, you say bearings. A speedy sleeve works great for seal surfaces but won't work for bearing surfaces.Yes, it's where the bearings sit that has worn. Do you think the sleeve will wear too quick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 No body filler or speedy sleeve where bearing seats. There's a stress area and it should be repaired good.Might be welded up but you should take care about heat since the part itself has thermo treat.There are shops wich apply "plasma" method or some other way of metal spraying on.Locally a friend of mine helps me bringing parts to the halvanic shop where they put chrome onto worn off area. Not a thick lay though, up to 0.3 mm so maximum 0.6 mm diameter increas is possible that way.After any metal "grow up" or "spay/weld on" it needs machining. For the best it would be grinding.The most machine shop can do that, I just use to come to the guys who grind crankshafts.They must center the part perfect and need some other not damaged co-axial surface to check correct center. 1 Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes, it's where the bearings sit that has worn. Do you think the sleeve will wear too quick?Ah thats different I thought you were talking about were the seal runs gotta fix it properly metal spray and machine I missed one of your posts oops never heard of it being called a quill before Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes, it's where the bearings sit that has worn. Do you think the sleeve will wear too quick?No sleeve! The only way is repair short of new spindle is with the metal spray and have it machined preferably like Vladd says by centerless grinding. A lathe cut will work if it is done with sharp cutter and fast spindle speed with a slow feed to minimize the "spiral" cutter marks. 2 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 So the diff is getting done at the moment. The process is called metal arc spraying. A hand piece has to wires fed through it, one negative and one positive. When they arc out compressed air blows the atomised metal onto the surface. They guy said it's much better than the old method. He said he will use a stainless steel wire which should create a lot harder surface than original. And yes, it has to be ground back. Sound very interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgumby Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=js2_qQI1w0w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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