firenut Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Full disclosure.. I also posted in "engine's"....Wellll it seems that my 707A engine is stuck... I think (probably dangerous) it's only one cylinder... However given the fact that I soaked them all in MMO for some time now... Took off the bumper and tried to turn the motor with a socket on the crank bolt, and she won't budge.... I think it's time... So now I suppose ill take off the heads and try to fix this mess... Any suggestions from you vets about this process... Do's ?? Dont's ??Any last ditch ideas to prevent the tear down?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullhusk Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Did water get into the motor at any time? (like open intake from air filter or in a flood?) Did you take the pan down yet and take the rod caps loose or check ithe main's? Did you take the valve covers off and try to push down on the valves that are in the closed position to see if they are stuck? When you had the bar on the crank did you try to rock the crank back and fourth, how do you know it's only one cyl. that is stuck? did you pull the pan down? I'm sorry if I am askin stupid questions but I'm just tryin to help if I can, I have not read any of your prev. posts on the engines post so I don't know if you did any of that stuff alreadyBULLHUSK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I'd pull the rocker covers and inspect the top end. Mine was in need of a major overhaul but the valve train was actually seized up so tight it made it seam as if the engine itself was stuck but it was not. You are going to have to take it one step at a time. A bore scope can let you see inside for the money to rent or buy one. Keep us posted. I've got some parts if you need anything. Have you tried to turn it in both directions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firenut Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Thanks for the feedback... Truth is I have done none of the things suggested. I will pull the rocker covers this weekend and take a look... I have looked in all of the plug holes and all seems good except #5 which DID have water in it... but why only one??? I am perplexed....The truck is amazingly in great shape with NO exterior rust... I'm thinking I found all of the rust in the Motor..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryS Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Another suggestion for trying to free up the engine is use a pry bar on the flywheel ring gear for a better gear advantage and as others have pointed out to go both ways along with checking the valve train for any sticking. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joemac Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I would avoid trying to turn it over until it is known what the problem is. If it is rust in one or more cylinders and you force it, you may very well break any number of piston rings. You really don't want to do that. Follow the advice you've been given and systematically find out the cause of the lockup. You might just get lucky and get away with just having to do some routine maintenance like changing the oil and plugs. Don't guess and don't force things. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firenut Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Hello all.. just an update... I took your advice and bought an inspection camera... I can confirm that it a only one cylinder that is hosed up... Seems like a lot of craps/rust around the top of it... So with that info , is a tear down in my future or is there another option?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 If it's loaded with crap, the only way to fix that is to open it up. No big deal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firenut Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Alrighty then... listened to all of you and pulled the heads... looks like pistons #3 and #5 have crap in them... i am hoping to not have to pull the motor... but the heads look fine... i cannot figure out how water/coolant got into them... head gasket looks fine as well... some pics are below.. any thoughts are appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 From seeing the rust in the port on the head it probably got there through open exhaust valves. Every exhaust port seems to have some degree of rust. Condensation has a way getting inside during storage. Probably find the rings flash rusted to the cylinder. some times you can get by with a set of rings and a light hone, sometimes not. Paul Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 As said above.(Just ran out of likes). 2 Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firenut Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thanks ya'll for the feedback... and of course you were right... I just pulled the PAN, and sure enough NO water.... the underside of the motor is immaculate... clearly #3 & #5 are stuck... plan for now is to remove the cylinders that are free, try to free the two bad ones, replace the rings and then put it all back together.... my hope as of now is to still avoid pulling the motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Remove all the rust and scale you can including as much by the piston / cylinder area that you can. Soak it for a few weeks with Diesel or Kerosene, that usually with free it up enough to use a block of oak and a dead blow hammer and drive it out. There is an other method but I would never use it on an engine in a vehicle... 1 cup ATF, 1 cup Gasoline fill cylinder and light it off. Let it burn out and cool over night. The expansion from heat and cooling generally free the rusted rings. Fire and the engine being in the truck are a no no. Paul 1 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Another thing to try is after loading the cylinders with solvent. Make sure the tranny is in neutral, put a breaker bar and socket on the nut on the front of the crank, then put a bottle jack under the end of the breaker bar and jack it just enough that there is a little of the weight of the truck on the breaker bar. Walk away for a few days and let the solvent and gravity do the work!! When the truck drops, jack it up again. 1 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 While you are soaking things be sure to keep spraying your solvent on the cam followers / Tappetts as they can freeze up and give you a stuck engine. 1 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 While you are soaking things be sure to keep spraying your solvent on the cam followers / Tappetts as they can freeze up and give you a stuck engine.VERY TRUE. The machine shop had to hot tank mine and disassemble the entire rocker shaft assembly to free it all up x 2. I still cannot believe that an engine stored INSIDE can get that bad but it happens. The building was not heated and it sat for 25 years. If you don't maintain them they die just as much as if they sit in the rain...only slower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 VERY TRUE. The machine shop had to hot tank mine and disassemble the entire rocker shaft assembly to free it all up x 2. I still cannot believe that an engine stored INSIDE can get that bad but it happens. The building was not heated and it sat for 25 years. If you don't maintain them they die just as much as if they sit in the rain...only slower.When all is said and done and the engine is running, when it's time to lay it up for the winter use an engine storage fogger kit and be sure to seal up any opening to the engine... exhaust pipe outlet, carb and even the breather / road draft tube. so this will not happen again. For all of my collector cars, Motorcycle and trucks here is what I do. Picked up this tip from both Hot Rod Magazine and Hemmings Motor NewsI slide a pvc pipe cap over my exhaust with a thin bead of bath tub silicon to seal it up, carb I use a Tupperware bowl that fits snug on the top, with the wing-nut to hold it on. You need to prevent as much condencation from entering as you can. Probably the most important step is to Fog the engine. With the gas use a fuel stabilizer specifically made for storing the Ethanol fuel. This article explains in layman terms the whys and what fors and Donts of Fogging a gas engine. Paulhttp://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/tips/a24534/winter-storage-getting-your-engine-all-oil-fogged-up/ Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdogtrucker Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I've pulled old cars, trucks, tractors ect... Out of the woods, and other crazy spots. Many have been running great in just a few hours, other times I've seen engines get froze up in no time sitting in a driveway or garage! Deff. take precautions to keep her well after she's done as 41chev says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Great info 41Chevy. What do we do for a diesel? Fuel stabilizer is available for diesel now. I can see closing it up in all the spots suggested too. Fogging might be a problem?Thanks for any info.Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Great info 41Chevy. What do we do for a diesel? Fuel stabilizer is available for diesel now. I can see closing it up in all the spots suggested too. Fogging might be a problem?Thanks for any info.GregNEVER Fog a Diesel!!! It will cause a run away! Top off fuel tanks to prevent condensation build up, Bioside/fungicide in the fuel. Our current fuel will last 43 to 5 months before starting to break down. Prevent moister from entering engine . Fresh oil and filters. Never really found one "lock up" from short term storage because Diesel is a lubricant as well as fuel. I've got diesels that have set for years running with mainly fresh oil, filters (fuel and oil) and fresh fuel with no problems. Paul 2 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 ULSD fuel does not have the lubricating properties as of old but use a good Diesel fuel conditioner (Stanadyne, Power Service, etc.) and you should be okay for storage. 2 Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 41chevy Posted April 10, 2015 Popular Post Share Posted April 10, 2015 ULSD fuel does not have the lubricating properties as of old but use a good Diesel fuel conditioner (Stanadyne, Power Service, etc.) and you should be okay for storage.So the 20 year old fuel in my Mixer is Classic and Collectible?? CAAA CHING 4 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 All good tips, but nothing beats being able to keep the truck (or classic car) in a conditioned space. Besides, it is so nice to be able to work on them in a heated garage on a cold winter's day. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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