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V8 clutch problems


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Anyone have any tips for getting a clutch to free up? My 85 superliner V8 with 10 speed mack tranny just doesnt wanna let go and there sure ain't alotta room to work on it. Help! please. I really dont feel like pulling this tranny. I'm finally at the point where I'll try anything short of that to get this bugger loose. Thanks --George

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unfortunately the access pnl on this bellhousing is under the t.o.brg and about the size of a post card :(. The angle and clearance to get something between the clutch and flywheel is a real b@st@rd. I'm tryin to make a tool,but it aint lookin good. - wishing for my E-6 and 12915 roadranger right about now ;)------- thanx

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I've got exactly the same problem... E9 & T2180

tried the usual ways of trying to shake it loose, stall engine with axles raised and applying brakes, gave it some gentle love taps with a blunt chisel on the pressure plate... all I got was rust dust.

after too many years in storage it would appear that the front disk is stuck to the splines as with engine running and pedal jammed down the trans input shaft is still spinning.. adjustment is fine.

will try rapping the clutch cover plate with an air chisel.... good idea... seems all it needs is enough vibration to loosen the rust...

don't want to pull trans either, undoing the cover periphery bolts through the bellhousing cutout is not looking too pleasant...

truck was stored too long by previous owner in a damp climate.... one set of rear brake linings and drum were very firmly bonded...!!!

old trucks, ya just gotta luv em.......

BC Mack

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Just out of curiosity have you watched the clutch while someone else pushed the pedal to make sure the throw out bearing fork was moving?

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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84 superdog----yep-the t.o. brg and fork is moving all the way back-can even see the levers and springs moving in the rear of the pressure plate. On this pressure plate there are 4 torx head bolts recessed around the housing-along with the single normal "adjust for wear" 5/8 bolt. Does anyone know what those do? I was figuring if I could back all adjustments out,it might give it a little more room to move when I get to beatin on it. I know adjustments shouldnt have any effect when the clutch is depressed ,but, if rust is bonding stuff together I figure it cant hurt....any thoughts?

BC Mack-one helluva piece of engineering -eh? lots of places for an access hole that would give a great view of the clutch plate- flywheel- but no hole

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BTW-I'm asuming the bell housing is bolted to the block internally?as in remove the tranny,pressure plate,clutch then bellhousing bolts are accessable-cause I cant see any bolts between the two of them.all the tranny bolts are easy to get to,but that will be the only easy part of a tranny pull. I was thinking if I could sneak the bell housing back a tad,I might get a peak-but no joy there either

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I'm wondering if a pnuematic de-scaling tool would help? I'm thinkin if I only loaded 1-2 needles, I may be able to get them in between the flywheel and clutch plate. With the angle and distance,you almost need a tool with "slim jim" flexibility, and that may fit the bill. I see harbor frieght has the small one on sale for 29 bucks,so it'd be a cheap gamble.I'd like to have one for the old cars and trucks anyway. Anyone ever try it ???

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De scaler might be just the ticket and for 30 bucks a Harbor, cheap enough to try. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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A friend of mine just had the same problem with his R-Model dump, He was on his way to my shop to pull the trans and I told him to hold the clutch pedal in while he was driving to my house, about 2 miles up hill, and half way to my shop it broke loose. I'm guessing because he was climbing a hill, it put enough pressure on the discs to brake them loose.

Live every day like it's your last, because one of these days, it will be.

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Sounds like everyone is in agreement as to the cause.. rust, remedy seems to be to brutalise the cover or go take it for a drive..... luckily they're built like a Mack Truck..!!! :twothumbsup:

note to self... clutch pedal all the way down when running for one minute with stuck front disk = smokey clutch brake pad....!!! only half way down next time. :whistling:

just a matter of getting some good vibes to shake it loose...

keep the help coming guys as I don't fancy unbolting the clutch through the letterbox in the bellhousing.

BC Mack

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Clutch pedal.all the way down with the engine running and clutch stuck will smoke the clutch brake fast its not meant to hold a load. Id drive the sucker and play with the clutch, say half way down and roll into the throttle a couple times. I know if I roll into the throttle hard on mine it wants to pull the front wheel (maybe more fuel than most).

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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  • I've been tryin to wrap my head around this clutch, and if I'm thinkin right(first time for everything:)) no matter what type of clutch configuration is in there(single plate,double plate,whatever) ,the only thing that would cause this problem is the front clutch plate being stuck to the flywheel-right??? I think I'm gonna beat on the P.P.a little more ,then, I'm gonna take 'er for a ride...maybe up and down my hill. Again I ask-Anyone know what the 4 T-60?torx bolts reccessed into holes in the back(trans side) of the P.P.are for??? I see the adj for wear bolt(5/8 head spring loaded)and the 2 1/2head bolts that hold the adj do-hicky on,but the torx bolts have me perplexed...which is usually a sign to leave them alone...if I was smart...which I aint -thanx to all for the advice thus far

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GEOD998

now I have eliminated clutch cable or adjustments I've got it figured down to three potentials on a multi disk clutch..

1. front friction disk stuck to flywheel face

2. front friction disk stuck to spline of trans input shaft and being driven by flywheel face

3. centre plate stuck in drive lugs and jamming front disk to flywheel

that's my summary so far, I'm hoping that an air chisel at the weekend will teach it a lesson..!!!

I would like to take it for a drive as I think it will cure my problem but unfortunately it is parked in an awkward corner and starting it in gear and trusting I can shut it off or stall it before hitting a wall is raising my pucker facter a few notches... and, as it is not heading for the road but continued storage I can wait to do the repair the safe way and if that means pulling the trans, so be it.

BC Mack

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You can unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel with trans still bolted up.It will slid back enough to see if its disc ruste to flywheel or if its the centerplate cracked and binding ever thing.

don't think that will work, aperture in trans bellhousing is too far back on my T2180, the periphery bolts are only just reacheable, someone else commented that the roadranger has an aperture more foreward and maybe your idea would be doable on that trans..

but, will have another look at your idea this weekend....

I could possibly install retaining bolts into cover plate, remove periphery bolts and give it all a shake, but pretty sure I will not be able to view the disks...

since we all work better on this site with pictures... I will try to get a few and post them...

thanks for the idea though..

BC Mack

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@ theakerstwo- I appreciate your input and I was thinkin the same thing at first,but as BC Mack said the access hole is so small and located so far to the rear on this tranny,I dont think it can be done. I will look at it again tho. I've done similar things on fullers and even other mack trannys, but this is the most ignorant setup I've ever had the displeasure to work on.

@BC Mack-whatever you do-dont rely on stalling it ( I have found its not easy to do with that motor). Make sure your fuel shut off is adjusted well and everything on the cable is tightened down.You tend to pull on it harder when a wall is getting closer than you do at the end of a normal days running :) . I'm going to try to get mine out onto the pavement with a little more "runway" and try a higher gear and more go pedal action. I have ,however, already started to dig out the stuff we use to pull trannys. It would be real nice if we could slide it back enuff without having to lower it down. Even better if I didnt have to do any of it. Keep us updated-I will do the same. Good Luck to you-be safe-George

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I had a quick session with my clutch today, rechecked the pressure plate movement, springs etc.... gave it some rapping with an airchisel... but after firing up it was no different...

probably need to go for a drive but given my timelines and other projects this truck will just have to wait for my current project to be finished and I will yank out that tranny...

took some pics to show the access and how forward the clutch is....

GEOD998... if you get lucky let us know

BC Mack

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  • 11 months later...

good pics of a bad situation-I will let you know of any "breaking" news

Bumping an old topic....

as my MH is in perpetual storage, to be restored at a later date just slowing the decay for now...

GEOD998..... did you manage to get it free????

I had another go at it today, part of "spring cleaning" and trying to knock off a few items on the list...

I wound the adjuster all the way off... gave it some more "love" with an air chisel.. well, I'm now 50% of the way there... the rear friction plate freed itself from the intermediate plate but the front one will not let go....

I don't want to describe what it took to get my fingers in there to feel the plates... but we're getting engaged next week.... tight!!!!!! :whistling:

next week it will get a power wash, shampoo and set....

there seems to be more work storing a truck than running it...

BC Mack

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  • 1 year later...

digging this up again.... with the solution..!!!!!!

now that spring has sprung I can venture outside without freezing or drowning... last fall I had the exhaust, tanks and batts off in preparation for the removal of the trans this year... made myself a trolley to sit the trans on and roll it back (no heavy lifting stuff outside just a car engine hoist and a bottle jack) and it came out real easy..

so, theory #1... input shaft stuck to spline didn't pan out..

pulled the cover off and found the front disk well and truly stuck to the centre plate... took some effort with a heel bar to pry them apart so I'm pretty sure driving it would not have shifted it...

new clutch assy to be ordered....

any recommendations or opinions from you guys..!!! old one is a genuine Dana, el cheapo Chinese stuff abounds here but want to keep oem, anyone bought oem lately????

BC Mack

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remove rust and reinstall! most likely will never be a problem again! ive had this happen with tractors before and there still running on the same clutch. i put a new clutch in the superliner 2 years ago september and i think it was around 800.00 just my .02 worth

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remove rust and reinstall! most likely will never be a problem again! ive had this happen with tractors before and there still running on the same clutch. i put a new clutch in the superliner 2 years ago september and i think it was around 800.00 just my .02 worth

I agree. If the clutch disk and flywheel face look good, remove the rust and reinstall. Or just reinstall and "normal" running will remove the rust. I have same problem with tractors sitting too long.

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Ken

HOF City, PRR Country, and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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as farmer 52 says and if your going to leave it for a long time with out touching the clutch you maybe able to push a bit of wood to hold the clutch disengaged and then it can never stick again but I wouldnt buy a new clutch a would just put it back in it will clean it self up in no time at all and work the clutch every few weeks a few times

Paul

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