Jump to content

BC Mack

Pedigreed Bulldog
  • Content Count

    814
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by BC Mack

  1. I have a new-old-stock-in-box MH plate, is this the shape you are looking for??? not cheap...!!!! there are plenty of used ones around but they tend to crumble as you take them out set up for regular pedal, the factory grinds off the lugs if you have an air throttle as you can see on my old plate (which I cleaned up and put back in) I even took photos of the re-re if you need them PM me BC Mack
  2. don't panic yet..!!!!! depending on mileage (ours are toast at 350km of city work) it could be simply a piece of debris stuck in the valve body.... N-D-N-R a few times on the keypad when at idle may be all it needs.... it's one of the most common complaints we get.... check the code and the manual will run you through the problem, pressure checks etc, if you have to drop the pan that will expose the valve body and solenoids, if you have to remove any wiring be careful with the clips on the solenoids as they get brittle with the heat and the wiring can also 'snap'... BC Mack
  3. Sooooo, I get back to the tranny shop and see #1 guy there.... he searches the database and nothing comes up.... so we did a word search of all our on-line manuals and find it as a reference for one of the assembly sections... but no 'go to' button..... the text refers to water or glycol check as I mentioned before, water or glycol is kryptonite to these trans as the bonding glue holding the friction surface to its disc is water based and as the debonding occurs the friction surface comes apart... end of tranny he's going to dig deeper and get back to me if he can find info, but his comments were to flush the trans, flush again, filters, filters, run with synthetic and do lots of samples... make sure there is NO water or glycol coming back on the oil reports. not sure what your change frequency but we used ATF changing at 24,000km, now we have gone to Transynd at 72,000km changes, samples at 24k.... with retarders we were boiling the oil on downhill runs, synthetic took the heat with no issues... now the coolant overheats and warps the engine block..!!! can't win with hills... BC Mack
  4. I'm on vacation right now, will try to dig it out when I get back, if we have access to that one... hope you're in no hurry BC Mack
  5. you won't get too many guys on here experienced on Allison trans, as said it is mostly a dealer thing.... I've worked on the B400/500 but in a bus application, not too different to what you have... we have laptops and trans dyno to use so I am not going to point out any bush repairs as failure is costly with an Allison... and they don't work for too long with antifreeze in the clutchplates so hope you got there early and nothing leaked back into the trans. buses have a remote cooler because the retarder mounts at the rear but similar in application to what you have, an oil core inside a coolant can..!!!! I assume yours is an oblong unit under the output flange??. it is probably the source of your problem, but we don't see too many of that fault just blocked up with debris or cracks causing coolant drips...we remove them on a semi-regular basis for reverse flushing and pressure testing if the oil core has a leak we scrap the whole unit, we just fix the can. pressure inside the trans is up to 300psi so we use Transynd not ATF literature would be generic and there are manuals on ebay and how to videos on youtube (try 'Allison 4000') you have to be an approved Allison shop to get the on-line manual and they are VERY specific to serial number, especially for parts pages, I made my own up for all our variants but never printed the cooler section, or pto..!!. we pressurise the coolant side to 100psi immersed in a water tank, the reverse flush is done on a machine with a air/hyd pump and pushes about 150psi through them....not sure how you would hook up the hydraulic side on your unit if you get totally stuck I get back to my old shop occasionally, books are there, but I think you need info quicker hope this helped BC Mack
  6. took a pill, washed down with a bottle of Efes pilsner just to get in the mood.... unfortunately youtube has removed "destination doha" due to copyright issues but that was the definitive cult movie for the "gold run".... BC Mack
  7. what's old is new again..... power recovery turbines were used by Curtiss Wright on their radial aircraft engine the R-3350... used primarily on the Douglas DC-7 and Lockheed Super Constellation airliners, three PRT's used exhaust flow to transfer power to the crankshaft raising power from about 2800hp up to 3500hp.... recent adaptations in air racing with nitrous has seen 4500hp... and no EGR valve...!!! BC Mack
  8. Vlad my other secret is to make a 4 wheel trolley and roll the trans back on it until it bumps into a crossmember, then lift it with a small engine crane, remove the blocking, slide it back some more... easy with a cabover, even easier with a forklift... but it was better to drop it than lift it out, less stuff to move out of the way, you just have to lift the engine enough to have the rear mounts clear then block the trans on the trolley... my 2 cents, worked for me given the environment I had to work in... didn't need to fully remove the trans, just had a disk stuck to the centre plate.. I also removed my bus engine by blocking up the engine and towing the bus forward..!!! there's always another way to do stuff... BC Mack
  9. Vlad pics of installing clutch with 18 speed, another trick is to make two guide studs for top as it helps with alignment BC Mack
  10. http://www.bendix.com/en/servicessupport/documentlibrary/doclib_1.jsp search for ..... d-2 open SD-01-503 16psi per full turn clockwise to lower... but I would do it in stages useful website for all Bendix info HTH BC Mack
  11. that's the lower damper support.... on the V8 it is attached to a bracket on top of the compressor, yours looks like a Cummins?... I'd flip it over 180 and go looking for a couple of spare holes around the valve covers.. the damper goes sideways to the long linkage so it looks in position right now on Farmer52's photo the damper is not installed, you can see the empty elongated slot below the mount BC Mack
  12. trans pressure (I surmise Allison) is much higher than shop air... if that is what you were using for test.. take a coolant sample and get it tested agreed that nat gas engine oil stays light brown but so does trans atf or transynd BC Mack
  13. The funny thing is..... Canada used to drive on the left, it followed British colonial rules, switched over to the right on Jan 1st 1922 http://www.vancouversun.com/life/week+history+switching+from+left+right+thing/11625241/story.html can you imagine the lane switching at the border crossings today if we hadn't changed..!!! BC Mack
  14. deja-vu all over again...25+ years later... PB 372 BC Mack
  15. BC Mack

    Work boots

    I'm about to retire and since I will utilise a company boot allowance for the last time I figured I'd go all out to treat myself and buy a pair of Daytons... beats the China made Kodiaks and Walmart rubbish and since they won't be used in a hostile environment these will last forever... who the heck are Dayton? I hear you say.... been making boots since the 40's here in a small shop in Vancouver BC but sell worldwide, so stuck in their old ways of handmade logging and cycle boots that they still measure them in the same British footwear sizing number system they had back in those colonial days. Expensive, holy crap expensive, but they are made to order and custom fitted if required, and there are still stories around town from the 70's that you were barred from the bars and clubs if you were wearing a pair such was the association to bikers and fighting loggers. I got the lowest price steel toecap boot at $399cdn but the movie stars working in "Hollywood North" are reported to be good customers for the high end boots... it's now fashionable to look 'rough' I presume.... BC Mack https://www.daytonboots.com/ https://www.daytonboots.com/collections/csa-workboots/products/6-inch-64-csa-workboot
  16. Well, the Germans are now manufacturing new FW190 WW2 fighters as a continuation of serial numbers at absurd prices... so why not rare automobiles by the oem or official licencees... new E-type shells have been repopped for many years, so manufacturing should not be an issue and the D was discussed in the auto media about 10 years ago as a possibility... however, if I was the owner of a priceless original D and somebody dumped another 25 on the market what would mine be worth now??? so, does it get a VIN plate or a serial number.. hmmm... how original do you want it, Lucas electrics..!!!! lucky LeMans is only 24hrs as that is all the warranty Lucas was good for..!!! BC Mack
  17. KSC... the FAA doesn't oversee military aircraft..!! military maintenance is different from civil and rarely accepted by the FAA if demobbed, though I'm sure in the 747 it would be close.... Approvals for civil aircraft would be under the aircraft manufacturer to ensure compliance when installed in a new airframe or an approved repair station and component manufacturer PMA holder to comply for installation through an STC by a DAR.... the airframe manufacturer would be involved if their approved design was altered significantly, the FAA is just there to ensure compliance to paperwork through audit, very rarely through an actual inspection, that responsibility has been unloaded over the years to the manufacturer, repairer or installer under their licences and self audit. nearly ran out aviation acronyms there..!! BC Mack
  18. KSC in my era there, they had the P6 for vehicles pre 70 and a smaller 4 cyl about 2.0 litre for just about everything else from gen sets to farm tractors.... then later they bought the Rolls Royce Eagle line to get into the semi market... IIRC good reputation then, easy to work on..... CAV pumps and injectors, pre Lucas !! can't think about market share of trucks but plant and equipment market was theirs to own.... BMC had a 3.0 litre auto engine for medium trucks and a 2.2 litre for all the London black taxis BC Mack
  19. you're right, but so are they.... one of the problems with bus conversions to RV is that most buses are monocoque with no frame, I've seen some conversions that have altered the floor to get more inside height and they wiggle as you drive them, then some try to alter door frames and add slideouts, never mind the overweight kitchens and bathrooms, some folks think they can create a house inside a bus frame using house building materials. On some models if you remove the plywood floor and drive it the structure will permanently deform. yes, vintage buses converted to an RV would be an interesting subject to discuss with RIV, I know of a few conversions brought in on an exemption but they needed a full inspection and engineers report before licencing, and if you fail it has to go back to the US where the title was previously cancelled so you are in limbo if it is not allowed back in... not worth the effort. the current process is to bring in a titled pre '71 bus with seats (exempt from fed rules), get it inspected as a commercial bus, title it, gut it, build an RV and change title... post '71 needs CMVSS confirmation from manufacturer.... buses built in Canada and directly exported to US may not qualify to be re-imported to Canada unless they were built to dual CMVSS/FMVSS standards... go figure. BC Mack
  20. Can't be imported to Canada as an RV... pre 71 'buses' are allowed by RIV (registrar of imported vehicles)... must have seats etc installed and be titled as a bus when it hits the border.. if already in Canada as an RV it is grandfathered.. if converted in the US to an RV it can be allowed in but there are only about three US converters approved by RIV and chassis must qualify for CMVSS with a letter from the manufacturer for that VIN... the DOT/TC really don't like those skoolies with woodstoves.!!! BC Mack
  21. yes, remove the 12 drive bolts from the "front" access hole, usually there is a cover plate on the engine side, worse case is you pull the starter.. the 40 bolts are to join the two halves of the TQ, don't go there. BC Mack
  22. as above... remove all the bolts from the flexplate through the aperture on the front of the bellhousing, these hold the flexplate to the torque converter... then remove the periphery bolts on the bellhousing and remove trans.... the flexplate will remain bolted to the crankshaft. on refitting, before you get too many bolts on the bellhousing, start all the ones on the flexplate, they have a habit of being a little "off" if you bolt the trans on and have no wiggle room, maybe that's why it's called a 'flex' plate. I also recommend 'transynd' synthetic, more $$$ than regular atf, runs cooler and less oil changes so it works out about the same per mile as atf.... if your tranny rebuilder guy is local ask his opinion on oil, maybe they will give you his bulk price.... I've seen some run on engine oil so check into it first. http://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/approved-fluids if you have a trans cooler then flush it out, the garbage from the failure may end up back in your new trans...!!! if all else fails go visit your local transit depot, they do this work all the time and could help you with advice.. though the 740 isn't in common use anymore. BC Mack
  23. doesn't say too much for their accounts dept audit and oversight.... BC Mack
  24. coming from the master of "through the windshield photography" I appreciate the comment, I was doing about 100kph when I said to myself, self, that would look like a damn fine picture, so out came the Brownie and I shot a few through the windshield, that was the only one that wasn't blurred.... sorry I couldn't get a girl in a car at the same time for you... BC Mack
×
×
  • Create New...