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Tips for starting a 673 N/a after sitting for years...


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Well I have been tossing around the idea of a local b model for some time now and would like some input from the community. The truck is a '60 (I think) B 61 ex- cement truck (minus the body). The truck has power steering, with a rebuild P/s pump. The air brake chambers have been stripped off the truck and it appears the rear differential's axle shafts are sitting outside the truck. Before I decide to make a move on this truck I want to see if it will run. She has been sitting in a field for a number of years and I can imagine they are nothing like getting an old gasser going again. usually you toss in a set of points and some fresh gas and they will fire up... but given there is no point, plugs or carburetor and I am armed with very basic knowledge of how diesels operate, what should I do or not do to try and get her purring again? I have heard of people using Ether but have been advised against it, and I am sure the fuel tank should be drained to start with as not to put that nasty sediment and old fuel through it... any ideas?

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As previous posts, good fuel and batteries. Rather than draining fuel tank, use a 5 gallon bucket and put the fuel pump inlet hose in the bucket. Check the dipstick for any evidence of water in the oil. Check coolant level too, if no coolant it may have leaked out or into the cylinders or crankcase. Also check air intake for rodent nest, etc. If everything checks okay, crank the engine with the fuel shutoff and build oil pressure. Then give it some fuel and hopefully it will start. Do not rev the engine but if it revs on its own, pull the fuel shutoff as the governor may be rusted (or block off the air inlet). If you use ether, use it VERY SPARINGLY (I don't like or use ether unless it is the last resort). I am sure others will have additional suggestions and experience.

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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Oil based WD-40 sprayed into the air intake will act like a fuel to get it running, without the potential harm of ether. The main difference between a gasser and a diesel is the diesel must be primed for it to run. Priming means that you need to have fuel ready to deliver at the injectors, not air.

If the engine has sat for a long time there is a good chance that you will need to prime it with fresh fuel to get it to start. I'm not familiar with the procedure for this engine, but I'm sure someone will post it. However, if at all possible make sure you pre-fill the fuel filters before you install them.

I have used the WD-40 trick to prime a reluctant engine by running it on WD-40 until the fuel system picks up the fuel and gets it to the injectors.

In addition to the other tips have a fire extinguisher nearby and something you can choke off the air supply with if it runs away. This can be as simple as a rag, just make sure it can't be totally sucked up into the air intake.

This may be a 24 volt starter, so make sure you are jumping it with the proper voltage if that is the plan.

Based on the removed axle shafts it's my bet is it was towed to it's final resting place, so you probably need to find out why.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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Oil based WD-40 sprayed into the air intake will act like a fuel to get it running, without the potential harm of ether. The main difference between a gasser and a diesel is the diesel must be primed for it to run. Priming means that you need to have fuel ready to deliver at the injectors, not air.

If the engine has sat for a long time there is a good chance that you will need to prime it with fresh fuel to get it to start. I'm not familiar with the procedure for this engine, but I'm sure someone will post it. However, if at all possible make sure you pre-fill the fuel filters before you install them.

I have used the WD-40 trick to prime a reluctant engine by running it on WD-40 until the fuel system picks up the fuel and gets it to the injectors.

In addition to the other tips have a fire extinguisher nearby and something you can choke off the air supply with if it runs away. This can be as simple as a rag, just make sure it can't be totally sucked up into the air intake.

This may be a 24 volt starter, so make sure you are jumping it with the proper voltage if that is the plan.

Based on the removed axle shafts it's my bet is it was towed to it's final resting place, so you probably need to find out why.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Carl - good points.

I too have used WD-40 to start engines. You have some lubrication and it is not as volatile. Ether is DRY and can easily score a cylinder or even break a ring due to its explosive nature. If I use ether, I crank the engine first to get some cylinder lubrication, then SPARINGLY "wave" the ether near the air cleaner inlet.

I would recommend disconnecting the air intake hose at the engine. If the engine would "run away", you have the chance of the inlet hose and air cleaner leaking air. Also, I recommend a board or something solid to choke off the air to the engine.

Don't try starting the engine without assistance. The more "warm bodies" the better.

Good luck!

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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You may have to prime the entire fuel system including cracking injectors. At the least prime the filter(s). Also Carl mentioned having a fire extinguisher nearby to choke the intake in tbe event of a runaway, but he forgot to tell you to use a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher!!! Don't blast a an ABC or any other kind of powder extinguisher in the intake or you're screwed!!!

TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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Yeah, I kind of figured dumping a bunch of chemical in the intake wouldn't be good for it haha. These are all great pointers, thank you everyone for chipping in! Now for the hard part, getting the guy to call me back. Dropped off my number where he told me he worked last time we talked early last week and still no call, so I am going to see if any of my FD buddies know him. There really isn't a whole lot of trucks near me and everything else I have been called with was in the 7K range... not quite what I want to pay for a project lol. The only other truck near me (just down the road actually) is a gas job with 8.15 rears!

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The fela got a hold of me today, the truck comes with a power steering unit from another truck (it was built with this anyway) a whole set of extra wheels, a 711 Turbo spare motor and a spare rear end. The bottom rear of the cab is rotted as well as the door posts by the base of the window (looks to be a simple fix). There is a large hydraulic pump on the nose. I did not see any antifreeze in the radiator but that might be from th eradiator hose being disconnected. I did not note any discoloration of oil on the dipstick. There is some rust between the doubled frame rails, but no holes. He wants $2500, what do you guys think? th_IMG_1516.jpg th_IMG_1517.jpg th_IMG_1518.jpg th_IMG_1519.jpg th_IMG_1521.jpg

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I have always had a soft spot for diesels, it broke my heart when I had to hand off my 2003 duramax so I need something to fill that hole! The gas job has a 401 I think, it is a B42. I think the truck would be a great resto project for someone who wants a gas job, the cab is almost perfect, the frame is covered in rod grime/ grease so you can only assume it is mint... the dump box is rough and the engine block is cracked. Repower and drive with some tinkering probably.

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We started an old Mack engine a few months ago and the rack in the pump was stuck open. Good thing I had removed the air intake hose and had a board to put over the intake. I shut it down before it over reved by cutting the air off with the board.

Doug

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