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I recently found this Mack A-54 and wanted to get your thoughts. I don't know anything about these trucks. I was drawn to it because I could see myself removing the drilling rig from the back and making a parade type truck for my son and his football team. It has a gas engine in it and is not currently running. I noticed that the headlights were missing and the fenders & hood are pretty banged up. Is there any value to this truck as a runner? I don't want to get into a long, drawn out project. How simple are the engine/transmissions in these trucks? Any input you have would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason

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The A54 is one of the rarer A series Macks.There were only 864 built between 1952 and 1953.Your fenders look solid,you can pound dents out and weld them,they are made of real steel,not the stuff they use today.The budd type wheels on this one is a rarely seen option for A models.Headlights were common on several models,E,A ,& L,so not that hard to find,definately a truck worth restoring.

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That is a neat truck. It would be great to save it. You might even find a collector to buy the drilling rig. You can buy replacement headlights new. The hood would be hard to come buy. Hopefully that could be fixed. As superdog said, the fenders are made real steel and the dents can be knocked out. Good luck.

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I agree nice straight truck.dash is complete no broken glass.get it sell drill equip. for scrape on use money to restore it.drop pan and check bearings if ok put 12v battery to her and start it up.should be mack 431 ohv engine looks like duplex trans.nice truck for your purpose.Lots of volunters i take it with sons team for cleaning and sanding.Some rust o leum black and a couple of paint brush's for frame or tint it red Bob

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AWESOME TRUCK!!! definetly one worth saving and restoring.

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I'd do it in a NY second. Here is a link to an aftermarket headlight supplier that I used for my 52 75A http://www.otbgear.com/682-C-Headlights-C3.aspx. I don't know if the hood is different from other A models, but it would be worth checking around for junked trucks you can get parts from. They are out there, it just requires a little digging. This board is a great resource for parts.

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That pressure digger still has some value to some contractors. They get remounted, and rebuilt, and remounted, and rebuilt. I was at a sale last Thursday where they sold one about that age mounted on a tank chassis.

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Thanks for all of the input. I bought the truck yesterday and will be picking it up here within the next week. I am super excited. Because of my schedule, this will definitely be a slow process. But, I will update you on the progress as it is made.

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Cool A-Model! Remove the drilling rig? Can't those big football players just hang on to it with one arm,like the way our garbagemen used to do? LOL!!! No,seriously that would make a nice parade truck.Kind of makes me wish I hadn't sold mine! I really like the A's :clock_logo:

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Save it, fix it, love it. The "A" series is rare because of limited production years but a lot of parts are interchangeable or universal. The cab is a carry over from the "E" models so most parts are the same like rubber and weatherstripping. External engine parts shouldn't be too bad and in most cases can be easily rebuilt. Before you try to start it be sure to have a second person with a good fire extinguisher standing by.

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Just a little update. I went out this morning and started taking some of the weight off. This truck is heavy. I scrapped a little over 1,000 lbs. off the pressure digger rig. The truck is still at the site where I bought it, and I am trying to find the best way to get it moved to my house. I found the headlights to the truck inside the cab. They are in pretty good shape. The hood is pretty bad and will likely need to be replaced. There is also a small cancer spot at the bottom of the cab. The glass is missing in both doors. I pulled the dipstick on the engine and the oil was not milky or over-full. I am hoping that everything is free inside. Here are a few more pictures that I took today (before I started pulling iron off). I'd be interested to know more about the engine, if anyone would like to share their knowledge. Thanks in advance.

Jason

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All of my A54's have the EN510 Thermodyne gas engine,I'd be certain yours does too.I might have a extra hood if you'd want to trade so I still had something to cover up the engine.

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Superdog, I may take you up on that. It's gonna be a little while before I get her home. I will be in touch once that time rolls around. Thanks!!

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Well, here's a little bit of an update. I was finally able to get the cutting torch out and take some more weight off the bed. After which, I had the truck moved to the house. Now, I can work on her whenever I have some spare time. Looks like the engine that was powering the digger is a Continental Flathead 6. The engine has been rained in and is locked up. I pulled the front Twin Disc PTO off and am going to try and sell it. It appears to be in good shape. My plan is to continue to scrap the entire bed and bring it all the way down to the frame rails. From there, I will start to work on getting the truck to run. I will keep you updated as I go.

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How much for the pto? Can you strap to a pallet and load?

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How much for the pto? Can you strap to a pallet and load?

Message Sent.

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just ahead of the coil on timing gear cover is type of engine.should read EN-!!! !!-!!!expenation marks should be numbers.first three will be engine size be it a 431 or 510 cid next set willb engine serial numbers.hope this helps you out.Bob D

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Just a little update on the truck. I have most of the bed removed, with the exception of the main gear box. For that, I will have to wait until my buddy brings over his tractor and front end loader to lift it off. This morning, I removed the passenger side fender to get a little better access to the engine compartment. The fender is in pretty poor shape. I would like to find out if the engine will roll through. Can anyone suggest the best way of doing this? I look forward to your replies.

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Pull the plugs and soak the cylinders with PB blaster then fill with diesel, put the plugs back in to keep debris out and check to keep full, let set until your friend comes with the tractor and then fill cylinders with engine oil let set until you after pull the gear box, then with the plugs out have your friend pull the truck with it in low gear and let the clutch out. Make sure that the crankcase is full of oil, once the motor is free have him pull you to build oil pressure. The longer it can soak the better, if it takes a while to break free you may want to rock the truck back and forth. You should hear if the valves are stuck, if they are pull the valve covers and lube. I have had success doing it this way provided that there was not a busted rod through the block. Once it is free drain and fill the crankcase with diesel and use the starter to turn over to clean the oil galleys and from the sludge, crank it for long enogh to build oil pressure then let it set to drain back I would do that several times, then drain and refill with oil and try to see if you can get it to start and run, if you can then let it run and warm up and idle for awhile, then you can check compression and such.

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Pull the plugs and soak the cylinders with PB blaster then fill with diesel, put the plugs back in to keep debris out and check to keep full, let set until your friend comes with the tractor and then fill cylinders with engine oil let set until you after pull the gear box, then with the plugs out have your friend pull the truck with it in low gear and let the clutch out. Make sure that the crankcase is full of oil, once the motor is free have him pull you to build oil pressure. The longer it can soak the better, if it takes a while to break free you may want to rock the truck back and forth. You should hear if the valves are stuck, if they are pull the valve covers and lube. I have had success doing it this way provided that there was not a busted rod through the block. Once it is free drain and fill the crankcase with diesel and use the starter to turn over to clean the oil galleys and from the sludge, crank it for long enogh to build oil pressure then let it set to drain back I would do that several times, then drain and refill with oil and try to see if you can get it to start and run, if you can then let it run and warm up and idle for awhile, then you can check compression and such.

I've done a lot of the same thing but like to chain the skid loader to the frame and can rock back and forth easily. Be careful though, I almost pushed a truck through the shop wall when the engine let go unannounced!

Rob

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Hey guys. It's been a while since I've posted, but I really haven't had a ton of time to mess with the truck. I have finished scrapping the bed and have it down to the frame rails now. There are pictures below. I pulled the plugs and soaked the cylinders with PB Blaster. A few days later, I pulled the plug and hooked jumper cables directly to the starter post, just to try and bump it a little. It turned a little bit and then stopped. I put more PB Blaster in the cylinders and let is sit for a week. I just got back into town last night and had a little extra time to mess with the truck today. I pulled the plugs again. This time, I got underneath the truck and turned the flywheel with a screw driver. I was able to get it to roll 360. So, I hooked the cables back up to the starter and bumped it around again. After I bumped it a few time, I allowed the engine to spin for a few seconds. It appears to turn easily with no problems. My next step is to put some good gas to it and see if I can get it to fire. I will come back with more details later.

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looks like you are getting started and the motor is free half the battle, keep at it dont get discouraged..

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