Vladislav

Ok, my gray matter feels a bit more relaxed now since it's evening and it was morning when I typed that post. Actually the things are more complex. There are (at least) two styles of Mack 6-bolt axle shafts. One of them has slightly domed, about flat flange. About the same look as the 8-bolt flange but for 6 bolts. These shafts are made together with the flange. As one piece, the same as 8-bolt shaft. Another style has a cone look. Also 6 bolts (and the same pattern?) but the center gets outside sufficiently. Those "mushrooms" are a separate castings with inner splines. The shafts used with them are just straight shafts. One end in the differential and another in the mushroom-flange. Interesting point I have this style on my 1945 Mack and there are additional seals which installed right in the "mushrooms'. Ok, caps or flanges, never mind. The reason is they seal against the axle spindel end so oil from diff doesn't go to wheel bearings. And the bearings roll in grease. Not sure newer axles have such desingn either but the outer look of the flanges is almost similar. I belive 6-bolt flanges were used on 44000 pound axles and 8-bolt ones on 38000 and 34000 axles.

Isn't 8ll a Mack T2080 tranny? If so it shifts right after flipping. No pre-select.

R-models had both 5 or 6 spoke rear hubs and it depended on the weight rating. The bearings were different but some (many?) axle spindels were the same. Usually 6 bolt jack shaft flanges were used with heavier 6 spoke hubs and had floating shaft and that domed flange (cap) you see at the outside. 8 bolt shafts were made together with the flange. Many Macks of the era (80's) had the same size although other truck brands (non-Mack axles) had them different and the splines either. Also worth to point out I have aluminium budd hubs on a R-model with stud piloted Alcoas and 5 spoke Daytons on MH. Both have similar 8-bolt jack shafts and used the same bearings - 563/567 outer with 572/582 inner. But the seals (surprizingly) are different. Can not say anything about B-series. And how it looks to me your way is taking both hubs off the axles and check out everything.

R688 of 1988. Rectangular Hadley air horns. That's the way I saw it when we took the headliner off prepping the cab for restoration. Your setup should be the same. Or definitely could be done this way even if it was different from the factory. Browsing flea bay listings I saw "Mack air horn valve" items and those looked similar to what I had in the truck. The part didn't seem unique to Mack and used by other truck makers.

Do you have 3 1/2 spicers over the other 3 wheels? I'd guess 3 1/2 is used with no additional spicer or for more narrow rim. Also I'd investigate the rims width both the original (old) one and the newly purchased. Including measuring the distance between its edge (tyre bed) and the inner (welded on) ring it gets against the inter rim spicer. Here all is about geometry. So could be found and worth to for having no further surprizes.

In such case I usually put some antifreeze in the upper radiator hose to fill it up getting the upper side of thermostat sunk. Than put the hose on radiator. When you start the engine that above amount of the fluid conducts heat and supplys it to thermostat so it opens. Usually when you observe the temp gauge during the first heat cycle the temp grows up and gets a little bit higher than normal and than drops down to Ok level in half a minute.

The front cover attachment (and the gasket) is the same. But actual covers may have differences. Depending on E7 modification there could be additional drillings or vice versa. I looked at photos of alu front covers removed from Renault Magnums with E7 (can't state the style of pump they had but doubly mechanical) and the covers seemed very similar to my alu E6 one but different. For example there was different fitment (or location) of the zero angle flag to set the crank. I'm sure I could use E7 front cover with some modifying if have no other options and have an original item for reference. Also there were different styles of E6 covers. They were steel and alu and also lower bolt holes were the same OD as upper ones on some engines and some had them thicker with larger threads in the block and corresponding holes in the cover. Those are exactly the bolts to attach the front mount you're figuring about. The front crank seal of E6 and E7 engines is different. Not ready to tell right now but IIRC that's about its ID. So the cranck hub must (or could) be different. Also I saw covers where the seal was pressed straight in the cover or there was removable flange you fit the seal in and than attach it to the cover body by 6 bolts. The seals ODs were different in that case. All in all it seems to me the swap you're going towards can be done and relatively easy. Just paying attention to every step and locating or remachining parts which wouldn't suit.

To me it looks like someone wanted to improve the look. At a certain time I had an idea to make something similar and attach Superliner grill at the front

Former owner of my R-model did such thing in the past. He just told me and I never saw the event myself. He said he put some fractures or so, probably used hex nuts between the peanuts ends and the outer cam. Blocked the divider that way and got the truck running. Probably for not too short distance and too probably with a semitrailer hooked. You need to remove a yoke and the front cover off the divider housing to get access to the spot. But would you want to get there or not seems as a big matter to consider.

Really sad to see. Hope it could be fixed just swapping the parts we see damaged on the pic. Chromed bumper would probably be a difficult to locate item.

Yup. Here you go. E6 or E7 mechanical has it at the same location.

It's definitely not a Mack motor. Vlad

Dig up the wiki section of the site. There're diagrams with sizes you're looking for.

Definitely Timken bogie and judging by the color of the diffs it could have military origin.

I got to my E6 block today. It layed on a pair of wooden beams so a truble to look over its bottom side. The pic is what was seen from the flywheel end. So those are #7 and #6 main bearing seats. As you can see there's a passage for oil bored so oil travels behind the bearing shells. I remembered you had the issue with cam oil supply and the passages were organized through #2 and #5 mains. I couldn't easily see those seats but I put my hand there and touched #5 surface by fingers. It also had that same kind of oli channel as you can see in the #7 on my pic.

All neat pictures. And the squirrel portraight is an art. I also like that big Mack. A scene of the kind you get wanting to come over the place, clean the weeds off and start tinkering with the machine imagining on how it would look brang back to life. Thanks for the report Tom.

It's a very good point to investigate. I could look at E6-350 block since I currently have one apart in my shop. But I can do it tomorrow.

I would like to have it but expect shipping to NJ would kill the deal.

Pretty interesting and sounded like making history. Just wonder what was the original reason to lift up the cab on V8 Valueliners?

Later E9's had two piece pistons also. At least in Europe used in 560 hp Renaults.

Hope he's doing fine and would take a minute in his tight multy-priority shedule to sign up and say hello.

Bolts were overtorqued when the rod was installed and broke down at a certain time. Or opposit situation they were loose and got gone. After either of the scenario the axle got ability to spin over its mounting bushings by acceleration or brake torque. The rod hit the crossmember and got the shape you see. U-joints kept its company by the same reason. Of possible traces to proof my suggestion I would look over the crossmember surface for punch marks or scratches made by the rod since it too probably made multiple hits. Also I expect one of the bolt holes worn to one side since two bolts were doubtly ruined together. One of them hold on for a bit of time before to get bend broken. Vlad

The right pic is awesome! Say hello to Zina. There's also idea. Couldn't you ocassionally take the red KW for a weekend drive? It would be a bit of fun and memories and also the way to update the girl in a car photo collection. I remember about your B-model mixer sometimes.

I would temporary install electric fuel pump into the fuel supply line or even attach a hose with such a pump and sunk into a jerrycan. Straight jumpering electric terminals takes all air and so from the primary circuit in less than half a minute. Than I would crank with the pump still on. If it's a matter of fuel supply or air the engine would start quite soon. If not your way is to investigate assembly mistakes. Such as injection timing, cam shaft timing, valves adjustment etc.

Congrats on the well deserved life turn! Hope you will enjoy spending time either in Virginia or Florida. I'm pretty sure you would like to do plenty of things aside of chaining steel rolls and tarping dumpsters. And as the guys mentioned above we all hope for your camera to be kept well greased, cleaned and operational.