Vladislav

Midliner front brackets? Hmm, interesting. Definitely some engeneering was involved. Also I rifled through the net a little and found out CM had 9.27 frame rails. CH rails were 10" tall. I tried to relate that section to any other Mack rail and found no similarity. Could be missprint. But RBM (resistance moment?) was pointed out as 1020000 Lbs in what is the same figure to the rear (straight) portion of a CL600 (RW600) frame rail. That rail is 9.37" tall so again incomplete correspondence or a missprint. Anyway it looks like CM didn't utilize CH rails but its own ones. cm_k364.pdf

Sooo... Any cool pics? I mean trucks. Winfall folks will show up in Picturess of the week I belive.

Thanks for the details, almost new story to me. A bit more of couriosity, and sorry for that - what are the front spring hangers and spring packs? CH I suppose? Or R? To my understanding CH has different spacing between the springs than an R but the axle beam is probably just drilled a bit different like it was done to MH/RW being basically the same casting used on R's, CH's, MH's etc. And how are the air tanks and battery boxes arranged? I don't see what was typical for a Mack chassis of the era on your pictures.

Pretty interesting. Also taking to account a full size truck chassis (CH) and big wheels its babiness seems doubtful. Ok, smaller engine and shorter hood were probably the goal. But I belive the track was wide and overall weight raiting mostly due to the axles and wheels could be quite high. The twin screwer on the photo above looks pretty nice. Definitely uncommon thing. What the on-chassis cab mounts look like? If you made any pics of them while working on the chassis please share a bit on here. Also I can't figure out which truck you fix. Have you the hubs/wheels swapped out to hub pilot? Or is that a different truck, not the one on spokes in the initial pictures?

What is the difference? I see the chassis rails don't look like an R-model stuff. Renault? Or a CH? Also it has real truck wheels. Did Mack use complete axles or only reworked hubs to fit Budds? Saw you mentioned the wiring and the air brake setup in the cab. Anymore major points? Anyway it's an interesting rig. I didn't hear about a CM before. My respect to its rareness, worth to keep in the stable.

Thanks. What put me in doubts was the holes/openings in the front wheel looked too close to the center dish. And still an interesting point those holes look further from the center at the rear wheel (unpolished face on the 3rd pic).

Are they 22.5 stud piloted?? Or 24.5?

R and DM/U cabs couldn't be the same since the latter were offset to the left and had almost different cowl than a R. But if you literally (or physically) cut the front portion of the cab off starting from the door hinges and up to the windscreen bottom I would bet the rear half would be the same for all three. And if the memory serves well CA47 is a centered R-model cab marking. Wonder which figure marks Superliner cab. It's also centered with zero offset but has different cowl sides to suit the boxed hood.

Thanks for sharing these cool pictures. Looks like it was a nice day. Hope Mike is doing Ok and got fun with the event provided.

Cool! Thanks for clearing me up. Honestly I was close to feel myself knowing everything about old US trucks and that wig-wag literally knocked me directly between my eyes

To figure is the diff is currently locked or free I mean physically not judging by the indicating light you need to jack up one of the wheels of the axle and try spinning the wheel by hand. If the diff is free the wheel would turn forcing the prop shaft turning together with it. The tranny must be in neutral though. If the diff is locked the wheel would be locked to the other side wheel and as long as the latter touches the ground and can't spin the whell you check wouldn't go either. The problem is you need the parking brake loose on the tested wheel. So there's a need to loose the slack adjuster on the checked wheel or release the truck's brake having chocks put all over the rest of. Actually it's important thing to investigate the diff lock operation physically. Because in theory when you see the light on it doesn't really mean the lock is in. And if you don't see the light it also doesn't mean the diff is free. The light switches on by a push switch in the axle. And if you for example have a wire broken the light wouldn't glow.

I'm not almost sure but it seemed to me like Sparr Truck went out of the business a few years back. At least I made Google search a couple of times in the past and no links to actually operated company appeared.

Congrats on the deal! I checked out the link and the add was already removed. Honestly I wanted to save the photos from the craigslist listing since they represented the truck very well. Maybe it worth to upload them to the gallery on the site? I don't think the new owner would be unhappy if such happened.

Definitely the thing you need the first and the most to start painting the dash is those switches Speaking the subject I'm not sure Amazon carries all the assortment you need for a Mack. Once I had the main light toggle switch fallen (apart!) and started looking for one I discovered there's plenty of similar looking switches. But that one I had in my R-model had specific functioning and terminal lay out. So after some basic search I ended up ordering one from Watts.

Hmm... What is that wig-wag-thingy supposed to be doing?

Thanks for educating me on the Mack engine F-mod. Will keep in mind. As of clairvoyants it seems easy to recognize such a person by a big shed in his back yard full of old spares

Good progress! Looks like we'll see her running by her own power soon

It doesn't sound as a nice story to wish anyone to pass through. But brings hopes for smooth turn out. And no one would argue at the moment that purchasing of the spare engine was a wise decition. Carl, are both ENF510 and 510A have double spark plug heads?

Definitely. Shoes could wore the drum and make a step near its edge. You pull the hub off and the drum hits against the shoes by it. Pretty common case when removing any brake drum. Try doing as adviced above and you will be probably fine. At least that's the 1st thing you should do at the moment.

The fuel lines could be different themself where attach to delivery valves. They look so but I haven't checked. So could be interchengable either. The firing order is definitely the same since it's predicted by the engine operation. Another thing I'm not sure about is the firing point. Different pumps may have different initial angle since they have different design. But may have it similar. Worth to check out the data for the similar engine but equipped with the other style of the pump.

Looks like she may be needing help to put her left leg back into normal position.

Nice looking R-model. Would be definitely an alternative for your Harley after putting some care to the look. Have fun! Vlad

Those are real eye catchers! Uggh, I mean the pictures. And I also like the Mercedes.

Thank you. I probably saw this chat before. Or its clone. Unfortunately it doesn't look trusty enough. First of all I don't see my engine there although it's pretty common E6-350 4V. The table conteins EF-350 which is the most probably a missprint since I too doubt EF engine model by Mack ever existed. Another smoky point is there're plenty of strange Mack engines showed in the table. Such as EN7-350, EM5-250, E6-200. And at the same time you don't see such typical engine like E9-500 there.

Great to see you're progressing! Turns out nice. And the only thing you need... is just continue doing the job the way you do Wish you having enough of time and $$$ for.