Vladislav

Different brands cost different indeed but their products are made of either different stainless steel and thiknesses. If you go with 304 SS it's a top quality material. If you slow down to 430 as I've done you might save some dimes. A couple of years back I put the pair of boxed style tailights on the truck. They were offered as a economy product and made of 430 SS. After two winters outside I found neither of dark spots or other issues on their surface and resolved fenders of the same steel would work fine for a hobby truck. My one has Canadian spread rears and I was able to order a set of Trux (or called something like that) ribbed ss full's for just a bit more than $500 from Big Rig Chrome Shop. I would give you an advice to pay attention to parts that fitted to trucks at a truck show. You can note a style they mounted, a way they actually look and what is more important their condition during a service.

Looks great! What have you done to it?

Bob, don't forget to share some pics when it's ready.

That's all pretty interesting. Thank you for sharing with us.

James, I wouldn't argue with the cat's meow but it worth called the dog's bark either.

Looks like air in the prime fuel. Might come into the system when parked and the most probably through the spots you saw wet.

Left and right hinges aren't similar on a R-model. There is a limiter on the right ones to not hit the air cleaner opening a door wide.

The one at the left is a L-model. The most probably LF or LJ. And the one at the right - do you mean that's the green one that is still alive??

Great photo! And that's the real bulldog!

As I remember from rifling through the net they were NZ built ones.

From those shots I would say a load divider is not an easy thing you just switch on and go relaxing. A mind switch is required to be shift "on" either. As for the steering wheel I saw the same ones before in brand new Visions wich were for sale here in Russia. So looks like those aren't special Aussie Mack parts.

Good work Kscarbel and Swishy I see Autocar was generally identical to Mack NJU. But as I remember NJU's were built of the form the pontoon carriers only.

I'm not sure on where to find a chart like you've described but as I was learned cold start is a reason of up to 90% of wear of an engine. And only the rest is from when it's rinning

Looks great!

By the word, does anybody have a clue on where to get a steering wheel of that style? I mean excepting to order a new one from Mack dealer. Just tinkering with the idea to put it on my R-model.

Tom, nice scenaries! I agree on the point about red truck. A bit of history to your sun. Not shure though he's eager enough to pay attention to the truck and spend time with it. I either agree on what you've done to Texas victim. Indeed, there was absolutely no need to lift her up from the ground since she had perfect current position. And I agree on no need to tell us the part of that story you haven't told. The only thing that disappointed me I couldn't see the picture of the ass you hauled here and there. ...Oh, no no, don't post it!

Randy, I'm pretty shure Eskimo and Chukchi never have bath or any other kind of wash. So I wouldn't worry about Hahn until it's cold. Every thing to its time. Not shure either it's good to fire her up every week during a cold storage. Cold start stresses batteries and provides poor oil supply. So for a winter I'd go for maybe one start in a season. Or better neither of, just a first one after warming up. All the rest sounds good

Interesting point, Jim. I didn't note it. Actually those gate sandwich panels were made in Russia. But starting from Soviet times, or might be from tzar ages, every thing from over the border is here better than locally made stuff. So the most of producents like to mark their job in English to make it look cool Sometimes I just wonder how do you guys live reading all scripts in your native language and hear all music that way either. It about seems not interesting to me. And actually the thing I'm not possible to imagine.

Guy, All NR chassis had stamped mark starting from NR4D, no matter it was NR-3, NR-13 e t.c. Actually any NR serie was just an order of some amount of trucks. So from a chassis number you can determine a model only by finding an interval the numer is in. For example NR-14 had chassis from NR4D 8567D to NR4D 15646D. And NR-15 were from NR4D 15647 to NR4D 16493.

Mr. Yardoomean, keep calm and load up the canister! I mean put red paint into a can and spray that STOCK screaming deamon (some day) the way it was done from the factory. Otherwise you gonna be risky doing about the same as painting Mack motor in DD green And I hope to see it done in person (some day)

It's a pleasure to see the way the truck is going to be done. I mean grey B-model. On my personal taste I'd keep the interior green as it's a special feature of a B-model. But gray paint looks nice. I would add a truck that done with lots of love would always look better than a correct colored poor easy fix. And I almost agree on the said above by others. Vlad

Looks in a very good shape. If I need one I'd be glad to have it.

The one on the picture Mike posted is sure Australian truck. It has R-model cab as it should have and is built on a R700 model chassis as they all were done. From what I see it is not a set back one but the hood is made longer at its front. And has normal length from the firewall to the fenders area. The form of the lower edge of that part of the hood has its own design being apart from American version. The same about the air filter tube cut out. Aussie RW's have it higher than American ones, the top part of the hood cut off either. And would note it's RW1. Too interesting truck anyway.

Cool pic Tim! We do miss either

Got two of them studs off. Had to sharp up a couple of hard alloy (concrete use) drills on a diamond wheel and drilled off the pins. Common steel drills couldn't work there. Than welded a big nut onto the end of the each stud and warmed up the tube end of the equalizer about red hot. After good wrenching and hammering the first one got loose and went off. The second one happened to be a bit easier being shorter along the thread length. The next pair is ready to follow, just ran out of oxigen to the moment.