Vladislav

Impresive animal. Front hubs look of the same style as Mack NR has.

A pleasure to see. Both interesting as a sample of old days engeunity and just a view of the past. Good point about grammer school. The text is spoken so well and correct I could understand it 95% with no repeat. Should do it 10 times more for a lesson

Ok, now I totally surrender. The different circumference issue makes a lot of sence. Paul, thanks for finding that Bridgestone test bulletin. The only thing I haven't figure out so far is that radial tyres have their cord layed over circumference. So being spinned fast they don't deform along their thread area. Saying another words they don't became a bubble form as bias ones do. So getting greater tyre circumference means increase of breaker cord length. It seems strange to me. Although heat can make many things different. And I have no intend to doubt Bridgestone engeneer's skill. Checked out the pressure I had today. Found out 4 bar / 60 pci in the rears all over. Dropped them down to 3 bar/45 pci so far. Going to make a road test. Will do the other day. Currently I have my polished outer wheels removed for winter storage. Hope to put them on in a couple of days to get on the road.

Wow! That's a pretty cool place! Little museum with super clean restored rigs. And I haven't seen that yellow NR before. The second one wasn't shown in the video. I suppose it's a well known Aussie dark blue truck with yellow Cat dozer on its bed. Thank you for sharing.

Ok, the gerneral line is clean. Thinking on pressure "uneventy" I work out the idea of progressive suspension flexibility. The same way as multiple leaf spring works. When load (or road hit) is light generally main leaf deforms. And spring reacts smooth. When you inctease the load every next leaf goes into work. I just suppose if you deflate for example outers to the level they support the truck normally and then get inners to lower pressure it seems to me (in theory) that inners would just go with about no load. So no way to overheat them. As for uneven wear I agree it will became at some point. But what I'm planning is 2-3 thousand km a year. So I think brand new set of tyres will wear off for a decade. Deflating airbags seems as a story of the same kind. I would deflate the central axle to about zero. But what bothers me is possible wobbling and jumping of whole the axle having no load on it excepting own weight. Shocks might calm it down though. Anyway I'm going to start with 35-40 pci in rears all over (maybe 35 inners wityh 40 outers???) and see the difference. Too probably my highly complicated theories will get needless after some practicing.

G'day mate! Quite an interesting point. Did you do 30 pci with load? Or with an empty trailor? Sounds impressive anyway. I think your camelback was too pleased initiating horse riding Thank you for sharing experience.

Thank you for the suggestions gentlemen. I see I may drop pressure in rears well and it makes hopes to me. Forgot to mention I drive new tyres all around, not recaps. They are Chinese Aeolus though. Why do you think it's one bad idea to deflate the inners deeper than outers? I would keep the outers stronger to not loose the wall off the rim in a steep turn. A common conditions would just let the outers run and the inners to revolve with about no load. 4 normally pressurized tyres (nearly 4 bar / 55pci) should carry the truck with no overload in them. One more idea is to differ the pressure in the airbags making the rear rear axle hold the chassis only. The FR would require another level valve and could be set for a couple inch higer. Meaning that you achieve something like too long wheelbase single axle truck. Sure no load is planned.

The question - what minimum pressure can I put in the tires to not loose them off the rims? The wheels are 11R24.5 tubless Alcoas. The truck is tandem R-model tractor. It's far from a showroom condition now but I like to drive it from time to time. Going a good road it rides smooth and I feel nice in it. It's long enough, has Neway airride on Canadian spread and air suspended cab with air seat. Although when catching some washboard parts of the road wich I meet plenty of it shackes as hell and flips its hood if I don't slow down fast enough. Once I had to pass about 20km of dirt road and it took me no less than an hour to. I know some load could help but I'd like to keep it as a tractor with only 5th wheel on it. Being not a truck driver I absolutely have no idea on how deep I can deflate the tires. Currently I ride both fronts and rears with nearly 80 pci / 5.5 bar as the previous owner recommended. The fronts look deformed under the weight but the rears show contact trace in the middle of the tire threads only, just don't touch the pavement with thread shoulders. So maybe loose the nippels? Or at least deflate the inside ones? Any suggestions from guru's?

Thank you for sharing the story and the pics. Too interesting to put an eye on the land I have never been to.

If you read whole the thread slowly and patient from the start to the end you will find the answers for your questions.

Looks clean. Nice job! I'm not ready to tell anything about a B-model interior color but painting insides of the doors (so far) of my R-model I also notices original gray metallik color was semi-gloss or semy-matt. I made it gloss and liked the result. Restored truck may shine, it should please an eye of beholder. And you always get a shiny paint dull just by time passed when it covers with dust, finger prings and so on. So keep the project going this way and we promise to like it

Nice solid R. 250 geathered with 5 speed seems too much for a calm ride though.

No, no! They aren't too bed!! Just swap the lower shells with the upper's and that thing will fly!!

Mate, thank you for pointing me out. I just used to see AC passes under the middle of a dash. And this time describing your driving conditions you forgot to mention scaring bahjeebers outta ya

Beautiful scenaries! Rocks are pretty to catch an eye on but make troubles for those who live there.

It seems to me the bed is long enough to move some trailors, not only trucks. Nice looking rig!

The road on the cover needs some flattening indeed. At all the brochure looks Ok.

Wow! Thanks the great for sharing. I was off my computer the day it was posted so missed it to my big shame.

Good collection of old trucks spotted this time. Diamond-T wrecker is a beast. And sorry to hear you found out there was someone behind your back who might be looking for an arse foot printing.

Nice looking rig. And seems not expensive along your costs. What is the unit with air shutters under the dash at the left? Additional AC evaporator?

Looks well-built on the pictures. The most interesting question is how long it would last. I used to hear that Chinese producents increaset quality of their vehicles to a good level during the decade although together with noticable increase of costs. Last years we have planty of big dump trucks on the roads and I noted some tractor units recently also. Suppose they're about twice cheaper than Scania's. Paul, Holden Cruse and Holden Spark... I wouldn't thought I ever hear anything like that. Just makes shivers up and down my spine.

Cutting the bushings seems as a trouble. Those I have are welded over no less than a half of their surround. I tryed to find out how they actually fit offset and couldn't see much of play by my eyes. On my mind if you're going to attach brachets to undrilled frame area placing them with clamps with some movements to follow would work smooth. In my case I will attach them to the existing frame with old drillings. If I use the ones I currently have on my truck I would just mark them and put back in their places. But I see too long story to go through and hardly dislike to part the truck out early. Having an extra set of rears and other chassis parts my plan is to prepaire as many as I can before that day.

Attractive offer. lucky I already have one on the truck and one as a spare. But as Leversole once said... (could be Google-translated)

I suppose it wouldn't be enough to set the brackets only. If this works no need of those offset bushings. Seems a factory do it this way playing with bushings and that's the correct way. If we want to go our "shop" way installing used parts there seem two choices to me. 1st (and more correct, and probably easy) - cut off the bushings, buy them new. Align and set brackets, put new bushings e t.c., align axles and weld. 2nd - assemble axles with everything including brackets, put onto the frame with temporary bolts and check the distances. Than try to align moving the brackets (and correcting the holes) or playing with the brackets swapping them. It the brackets fit different than they were larger bolts might be required to cover the holes increase. The point I personally dislike with welding is I prefere to sandblast and paint brackets separately. And I have it almost done. Welding good painted parts when on a chassis makes me cry. The matter of the question is not a today need to me so I have a bit of while to keep figuring out. So sharing your experience is strongly appreciated.

I'm going to remove a set of Neway's from one frame to another. One thing bothers me. I read in some Neway bulletin (on the net) that steel bushings you can see welded into the lower ends of the frame-mounted brackets are originally excentrical. So after you have the brackets on the frame rails and attach equalizer beams together with axles you can turn those bushings checking the axle alignement and than weld them up in place. I'm not going to cut off those bushings and it has me scratching my head. Seems like a temporary attachment of whole axle assemblies with the brackets onto frame rails might be required. Or anything else. Vlad