farmer52

The 2017 show will be held on Friday and Saturday July 21 & 22 at the Morrison's Cove Memorial Park in Martinsburg, PA. This year's show will be held in conjunction with the Martinsburg Volunteer Fire Department's 125th Anniversary celebration. The MVFD will be selling ox roast sandwiches and other food/drink items starting each day at 11am. They will provide entertainment each night starting at 7pm. They will be selling a pancake and sausage breakfast on Saturday 7am-10am. Plan to attend and support a local organization. For more information and registration form please go to the Keystone Chapter's website http://www.keystonetrucks.org/ and click on "2017 MARTINSBURG, PA SHOW INFORMATION" button. The Chapter is seeking any fire related equipment to help make the MVFD celebration as huge success.

A group of guys from south central PA are planning to convoy to the national ATHS show in Des Moines, IA. The plan is to leave the Altoona, PA area on Tuesday morning May 23rd (O dark 30) via Route 22. Quick stop at Watt's to meet Tim Hoover and then on to New Stanton. Travel west on I-70 and stop at London, OH (exit 79). Then continue west on I-70 to Indy then I-74 west to Danville, IL where we will overnight at the Sleep Inn. On Wednesday we will continue west on I-74 to I-80 west to Des Moines. We will leave Des Moines on Sunday morning (28th) and return on the same route with stop for the night at Richmond, IN (New Paris OH Fairfield Inn). Then return home on Monday. I will be leaving Tuesday morning from my residence in Canton, OH and driving I-77 south to Route 30 west to I-71 and south to Columbus OH. I will be meeting the PA group in London, OH (exit 79). If anyone is interested in being part of our convoy, send an email to rollhauler at outlook dot com and put "Des Moines Convoy" in the subject. I saw in WoT another group is planning a convoy from MD via Route 30. Route 30 would be an interesting route but will take forever with mountains, two lane highway, and small towns.

Tom, Sorry for your loss. It could have been worse but that does not make it any easier to handle. Good luck with the insurance settlement.

Thoughts and prayers going your way!

I visited the local (10 miles away) used truck dealer and measured several Rs and RDs. The door width varies from 31-3/4" near the bottom to 32" near the middle. The overall height is about 53-1/2". Distance from the lower mirror bracket to bottom of the door is about 29-1/2". The depth is about 5" inside to outside door skin (4-7/8" from inside the skin). I hope this answers your question. If you need more information, send me a PM, and I will help as best I can.

It is too damn bad you cannot get a straight answer. I was told and have seen many times, there are no dumb questions. But I see there are some knowledgeable with smart ass answers and getting tired of seeing the BS! As the saying goes "everyone likes a little but no one likes a smart ass." I will be out and about this week and will find an R and measure the door. Perhaps it would be easier for you to find a R and measure it yourself considering the BS replies you are getting. Is there any other information you want concerning the door?

Any Mack dealer or truck parts outlet should be able to match your existing strap. I don't think there is anything "special" about the Mack tank straps.

"Back in the day" I had fleets use a vampire/suction pump and clean tubing if not at an oil change. The sample bottle attached to the pump and the UO was drawn into the bottle with the pump. You need two (2) bottles, one to purge the line (about 1/2 bottle) and the second (clean/new) for the actual sample. Remember to use the tubing only ONCE and then trash.

When I changed the oil in 2012 I had access to Chevron at my friend's farm in OH and it was "priced right". Personally I prefer Rotella but I think either one is a good oil.

I did not realize the PS pump is connected to the air compressor.

As far as I know, either horn (Hadley or Grover) could be spec'd/ordered. The "standard" horn may have been Hadley (rectangular).

Being a retired "oil expert", I recommend taking a yearly oil sample. That will determine if and when you need to change the oil. Something to consider, if the truck is only used for parades, short trips, etc. the engine and oil do not get hot enough for long enough time to drive off moisture and other contaminants. I must admit the oil/filters in my MH were changed in May 2012 and still running without an oil change (about 7K miles). However, when I run the MH to shows, it is for several hours so the engine/oil do get hot. When it comes out of winter "hibernation" in 2017, O/F change is scheduled. BTW, currently has Chevron Delo 15W-40 but will get Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in the spring. Personally I am not a believer in using synthetic engine oil unless there is a valid reason why you need it (cold and extremely hot operating environment for example). I do however recommend synthetic lube for transmission and rear axles. Bottomline...used oil analysis is your friend. Just my 2 cents.

The local ATCA Chapter (Keystone) is planning an excursion the end of April 2017. Looking forward to visiting the Museum.

Larry, Can you use the current headliner for a pattern, or is it too far gone?

I use Sears Die Hard and Schumacher battery maintainers during the winter months on my trucks, cars, tractors, garden tractors, and golf cart. You can buy them on sale for less than $20. The Die Hard maintainers last at least 5 years. Just started using the Schumacher. The MH uses three (3) 12V batteries connected in parallel. I disconnect the single battery and hookup a maintainer. The double batteries I connect the maintainer to the positive post of one battery and the negative post of the second battery.

Roll Hauler is hibernating for the winter. Filled the tank with fuel and connected the battery maintainers. As I mentioned, no more air leaks this year. Not concerned as long as the air stays up while I am driving. I am just a frustrated old engineer. I drove it over five (5) years with "major" leaks. 2017 will be its 25th birthday so I am going to put Historical plates on it. Then hopefully I will not need to be concerned about the DOT.

Yes, made headway on the leak issue. This year I replaced both air tanks and installed some check valves but wet tank still leaks down. Otherwise holds air in the secondary and main tanks. Did not hold air before. My Christmas list is short and I don't need the MH for a couple lumps of coal. It spent 20 years outside and running in the snow and salt so it deserves a covered resting place during the winter months. Now if I could only find a shed for the trailer.

Final update for 2016... Bent the gladhand "retainer" on the trailer. Seems to fit tighter. Checked the compressor supply line fittings and no leaks. Also checked the governor "feedback" line and no leaks either. The Roll Hauler goes into winter storage on Thursday. So no more checks/updates until 2017. Thanks to all for your suggestions to resolve the leaks.

Ron, Well wishes going your way. Get better so we can chow down at a stuffit buffit!

I am in the area but without the MH. I plan to be at Gerhart's after noon Friday to help if needed.

Larry, In addition I am thinking you might be getting air in the fuel system. Check your fittings and lines on the upstream (suction) side of the transfer pump. A fuel gauge on the supply side is a good tool.

A few of my favorites... Maint1 - I hope my drool will wipe off the 3408.

Here ya go Gregg...

Weather forecast is showing rain showers Turdsday thru Saturday. Unless the forecast changes I will not be bringing the MH but will be there to support the show/club.