farmer52

Too many questions, too little beer!

David - thanks for the link. Interesting statement "This was pretty late in the life of Mack’s R Series cab-over-engine model."

Nice MH and new paint looks good. The grille is chromed plastic. If the grille is like mine, the chrome "peels" and is also "pitted". New grille sections are EXPENSIVE. Black grille is different but I prefer the standard chrome/black. I just noticed...they did not paint the hubs and lug nuts white! Looks like they did the repaint correctly except the grille.

Where is the end of the line or do we take a number?

My MH was not spec'd with an air dryer. I have a new Bendix AD-IP dryer (bought it years ago for my H). Should I install the AD-IP or should I sell it and use an AD-9 dryer?

Its the old "double standard" issue. And the "haves" and "have nots". I will say it again "I am glad I am getting old!"

When did you last fuel the B? It may not have winter blend fuel. I think you mentioned you just fueled the Super, so it likely has winter fuel.

IFMI520 - has not logged in since the original post. Must not be too anxious to sell. On the bright side...maybe he is taking pics to post, specially of the fiberglass R cabs.

My parts book shows 1/2" OD tubing.

Vinny - hating cold temperatures happens when you get older. You are not that old. Ah summer, can't wait. I am ready for the "show circuit". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvDPYOe-7nI

Ignition switch?

Having now been retired for a while, I sometimes have to create opportunities to keep my deductive reasoning skills sharp. Did some things around the farm today, and after doing so I sat down and had a couple nice cold beers. The day was gorgeous, and the brew facilitated some deep thinking on various topics. Finally, I thought about the age old question: Is giving birth more painful than getting kicked in the nuts? Women always maintain that giving birth is way more painful than a guy getting kicked in the nuts. Well, after another beer, and some heavy deductive thinking, I have come up with the answer to that question. Getting kicked in the nuts is more painful than having a baby; and here is the reasoning behind my conclusion. A year or so after giving birth, a woman will often say, "It might be nice to have another child." On the other hand, you never hear a guy say, "You know, I think I would like another kick in the nuts." I rest my case . . . still sharp as a tack.

Gawd! I just lost my dinner...and it was not that good going down and now its even worse coming back up.

If you are talking about the "drain outlet" on the bottom of the tank, my tanks are 1/2"NPT.

VERY NICE!!

Too bad about the fire and loss of trucks/parts. The important thing is no one's life was lost. Parts and equipment can be replaced albeit they will never take the place of the originals. Events like this are a reality check for all of us and our collections.

Hindsight is always 20/20....if we knew then what we know now, most of us would be millionaires (or at least have a yard full of nice "stuff").

I use Stanadyne Performance formula in all my Diesel powered vehicles year round. I keep a bottle in the MH storage comparment. Just like American Express..don't leave home without it. Engine OEMs have always been against using fuel additives. They all say "our engine will run on any Diesel fuel." That may have been true 20-30 years ago but Diesel fuel quality is not what it used to be. Engines today run hotter and return HOT fuel to the fuel tank (fuel is used to cool the engine ECU). And because of this heat, the fuel deteriorates quickly. Hydrocracking of the fuel to remove aromatics and desulfurization are some reasons why the fuel deteriorates quickly (sulfur is a natural fuel stabilizer and provides lubricity). If you ever see "dark" Diesel fuel, that is a result of heat. John Deere recognizes the quality of Diesel fuel has degraded and they market a JD branded fuel additive. CAT has a branded fuel additive also. ASTM specs require a lubricity additive in all Diesel fuel. But there are other benefits from using a good multifunctional additive package...additional lubricity, fuel stability, cetane improver, water control, cold flow improver, and deposit control. A problem developing in newer engines is "internal injector deposits." There are a lot of "mouse milk" products out in the market but if you use a known branded product (Stanadyne, Power Service, Penray, FPPF, Howe, etc.) you should be okay. There are also fuel additives that are specifically formulated to use with bioDiesel. Additional additives in engine oil and driveline fluids are not necessary. Just use a quality branded product of the correct grade and you will be okay.

Great video...thanks for sharing!

Good to hear you are doing better. Bikini...I think we will pass on a pic!

Thanks for the clarification. So the Vinster was on his side and took the pic? Only Vinny could fall and not drop the camera.

In extreme cold temps (typically Canada), additives will become ineffective. So you have to use kero which is okay but it must be Ultra Low Sulfur Kero. More cost effective to use cold flow improver additve then kero. DEF will turn to "toothpaste" consistancy when below ~20F. There is a heater in the DEF tank once the engine starts. EPA allows 30 minutes (I think) for the DEF to thaw. When the engine is shutdown, the DEF pump actually pumps the DEF back into the tank so the lines do not freeze. Fuel suppliers blend fuel per ASTM spec for average temps (in the service area). Problems can occur if someone fuels in the south and travels north (mild climate to cold climate) without refueling with "local" fuel.

Looks like George Strait to me. I hope I am correct. Clark....Roy Clark?

And it climbs vertical snow covered roads

I have XDN2 caps on the rear of my MH. They were on it when I bought it and don't know how many miles are on the tires. The fleet (Martin's) uses only Michelin tires so they must be okay. Sorry I can't be of more help.