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Found 31 results

  1. Can anyone please tell me if there is a trick to installing R Model hood badges/letters with the push on fasteners? I can't seem to get them to secure to a standard that I am satisfied with. Is there a trick to this? I have not used any double sided mounting tape. Should I? Hope someone can offer some insight. Thanks
  2. Seen at Macungie in 2013. A few upgrades and changes but still has the look of late 60's trucking.
  3. These are the "crossover" cables that go from the starter to the Right-Hand battery box. I was only running batteries on the left side, and removed the cables. When I sold the truck, the new owner never picked up the cables. Need whatever $ it will take to ship them, and a few bucks to make me not regret selling them instead of recycling them! Anything reasonable will be accepted...really!
  4. On GovDeals.com there is a CF Tanker in good shape, and an R600 pumper (Gas) in poor shape.
  5. Anyone know who made the gauges generally installed in mid 80s R Models as in the attached picture? I am installing a new dash so will do the guages at the same time. Would be a lot easier if I can get new compatable versions to avoid changing fittings, senders etc. Does anyone have suggestions for where I can get some new replacements on line? Thanks
  6. In the Mid '80 we can see this rare combo, R600 with road train, GCVW ~ 90 ton the reason was "mifalely Tovala" needed new trucks, there were no DM800 available in 1983, than came this R612SX. with EE6 315 engine and 5 speed X 2 gearbox and dynatard engine brake that seems to push the the truck faster.. some drivers likes it because it was more quiet in the cabin and jumped less than the DM, mind you - no air suspension for Mack in Israel. Some drivers were crying for being too weak to go anywhere. BTW the route was Dead sea to Eilat Port with some serious uphills i/ downhills in the way
  7. Anyone know who made the gauges generally installed in mid 80s R Models as in the attached picture? I am installing a new dash so will do the guages at the same time. Would be a lot easier if I can get new compatable versions to avoid changing fittings, senders etc. Does anyone have suggestions for where I can get some new replacements on line? Thanks
  8. Has anyone had success installing a sleeper on rails to an air ride R Model cab? I have seen that forum member Murranji is doing one but I really don't want to pull the R Model cab off again to mount the rail. Is there a way to mount some rails while leaving the cab mounted in the normal way? I have just spent considerable time repositioning my cab to a custom height and have had a walkthrough cutout done to suit a CH sleeper. Both cab and sleeper are painted and the next step was to mount the sleeper in a fixed position and attach rubber sock to the air ride cab. Have had delays with installers and now I am thinking I would prefer to have the sleeper attached to the cab instead of the chassis (with a couple of air bags at the rear of sleeper). The cab is sitting about 4 inches higher than standard so I have plenty of room underneath. Has anyone done this without pulling the cab off to mount it on a rail? Finally got everything in place and I don't want to go through that again - particularly given that cab is freshly painted. Any tips or photos?
  9. Hi, I hope I can get some urgent input from those in the know. I have someone fitting a sleeper to my R Model in the next few days. The R cab is on air but the sleeper will be fixed to the chassis and connected to the cab with a rubber sock. All brackets have been made and are ready for mounting but I just want to be sure we are doing the right thing with respect to the fixed sleeper height. If the cab is propped into its operating position as if full of air (ie. level), should the cab and sleeper openings line up or should the sleeper sit slightly lower than the cab? If so, by how much? My installer was thinking that the sleeper should sit about 15-20mm lower than the relative operating position of the cab so the sock is not over-stretched when the cab is in its resting position. Anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks
  10. SOLD!!! Guys, I think I've had enough. I'm not having fun any more. So, I think the R600 is going on the block. I hate to let it go, but I think it is the right thing to do. Asking $7,000, but might do a little better for one of you guys with "no-kill" shelters. This is NOT a barely-running-pulled-out-of-the-weeds-and-shot-with-paint-export-special. The truck is driven almost every day. It starts instantly, works extremely well, and drives great. Everything works (except maybe the heater...water is turned off at the manifold). Every light on it works. Have clean NC title, which is a feat all its own. Also have the build sheet. ENDT-673C (250 hp) with factory Fuller RTF-915. Dual-disc spicer pull clutch. 4.17 rears. Inverted camelback rear springs. Also includes 16 extra Dayton rims with varying types & conditions of tires on them. When I got it, it already had hydraulic power steering added (TRW/Ross), and has a 1-wire alternator (negative ground). Also, brake linings were fresh, and are still in great shape. I have done: new rear slack adjusters new rear brake actuators converted from DD3 to spring brakes all new rubber air hoses from frame to axles all old frame-mounted air hoses replaced with DOT poly new parking brake valve (with built-in anti-compounding) new trailer brake valve new limiting Q/R valve for front axle new brake light air pressure switch new radiator hoses new fan belts new water filter supply hose new RoadRanger range shift synchro kit new range shift valve new transmission air lines replaced 3 spring leaves in LF (2 broken ones and the next one) new kingpins & bushings 8 "newer" recap tires & better tubeless rims (rears) new bulldog & base (easier to open hood!) new fuel filters rebuilt fuel primer pump new air intake hose new tail lights new front fender marker lights 1 new battery (all it's ever needed!) new negative ground volt meter new exhaust s-pipe new exhaust stack new wiring to tail lights new wiring to brake light switch new tie rod new tie rod ends new mudflap brackets & flaps removed worn-out 5th wheel and cobbled-up mount removed wires that went nowhere new wiper blades new tachometer and drive cable New cab mounts fresh oil change have radiator mounts in box have front spring isolators in box
  11. Hi, I hope you can help with a question. I am having a sleeper installed on my R Model and the installers need to know how the cab will sit with the cab air bag pumped up. Unfortunately I have no tanks or fuel lines attached to the truck as it has been stripped for painting so I can't start it. I don’t own a stand-alone compressor but could bring another truck on site and attach its air outlet to the R Model’s air tank. Do you think that will work to pump up the air bag or is it likely that a valve somewhere along the line will prevent the air from reaching the bag without the truck on? Otherwise I will have to just put a bottle jack under the cab and lift it to what I believe to be the operating height. Any other ideas? Thanks
  12. Sometimes I wonder if I've lost my mind! I was just going over the "to do" and "already done" lists, and I wonder if I've taken a walk off the deep end. When I found it, it had almost new brake linings on it. And, someone had already swapped in a single-wire alternator and switched it over to negative ground. Since I drove this thing home from the salvage yard in which I found it, here is what I have already fixed/replaced: new rear slack adjusters new rear brake actuators converted from DD3 to spring brakes all new rubber air hoses from frame to axles all old frame-mounted air hoses replaced with DOT poly new parking brake valve (with built-in anti-compounding) new trailer brake valve new limiting Q/R valve for front axle new brake light air pressure switch new radiator hoses new fan belts new water filter supply hose new RoadRanger range shift synchro kit new range shift valve new transmission air lines replaced 3 spring leaves in LF (2 broken and the next one) new kingpins & bushings 8 "newer" recap tires & better tubeless rims (rears) new bulldog & base (easier to open hood!) new fuel filters rebuilt fuel primer pump new air intake hose new tail lights new front fender marker lights 1 new battery (all it's ever needed!) new negative ground volt meter new exhaust s-pipe new exhaust stack new wiring to tail lights new wiring to brake light switch new tie rod new tie rod ends new mudflap brackets & flaps removed worn-out 5th wheel and cobbled-up mount removed wires that went nowhere Sometimes I wonder what the #$%@ I'm doing out there, working and sweating over this thing! I don't know...maybe it needs a new home??? Sometimes I wonder...
  13. Can anyone explain to me how an EM6 differs to an E6? I am restoring an '85 R Model that has an EM6 300. Can anyone tell me about this engine and whether it is worth keeping? It is not an EM6 300L. It is currently matched to a T2090 but that has issues so will be replaced with an Eaton 18 speed. Just trying to decide whether to go through the trouble of matching the Eaton to the EM6 or if I should re-power. Anyone have an opinion on the EM6? Is it possible to increase the HP? Thanks
  14. I am fairly new to Mack and just working through some compatibility issues. I am restoring a R Model with an EM6 matched to a T2090 9 Speed. The T2090 has an issue and I have been told (by many) not to bother fixing it. I have access to a good Eaton 18 speed (RTLO14718B) but am wondering if it is a lot of trouble to match an Eaton to an old Mack engine such as an EM6. What else do I have to buy to make it mount and work? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  15. I am fairly new to Mack and just working through some compatibility issues. I am restoring a R Model with an EM6 matched to a T2090 9 Speed. The T2090 has an issue and I have been told (by many) not to bother fixing it. I have access to a good Eaton 18 speed (RTLO14718B) but am wondering if it is a lot of trouble to match an Eaton to an old Mack engine such as an EM6. What else do I have to buy to make it mount and work? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  16. Does anybody out there have a picture of a front cab mount for a V8 Valueliner - ie. the last model with the long sloped hood? I am fabricating some mounts for a project R model and would like to know how it was done on these models (as they sit quite high off the rails). Anybody have a picture or know whether the V8 Valueliner sits higher than a Aussie Series 2 Superliner which has the fabricated mounts? Thanks
  17. Hi, I have a small hose coming off the air cleaner housing of my ’85 R Model. From memory, I would say it is about 8-10mm in diameter and comes off the side of the air cleaner housing. I am fabricating some new air intake parts but I forgot to check what the hose was for last time I was at the truck (which is parked off-site). Would anyone happen to know what it is for as I am trying to save a trip back to the truck (which is in another city) to check. I am temporarily installing a remotely located air cleaner while work is being done on the truck and I am hoping this hose can be ignored and temporarily blocked. I have a similar outlet hose on another truck and it is just a sensor for testing the air but I have never paid any attention to what the hose is for on the R Model. Any ideas? I am hoping not to have to make the trip out to the truck to check!!!
  18. I have just bought new cab shock absorbers, air bag and bumper-stop for my '85 R model. The previous owner removed the bumper-stop and the back of the cab has essentially collapsed on to the chassis. Any tips for a method to change these when you don't own any heavy/professional lifting devices etc?? Thanks
  19. Hi, sorry to start yet another similar thread but my R Model project has stalled because I need to work out exactly how tall a Western RS/RL/Valueliner cab mount is. Is there anyone that has a Western RS/RL/Valueliner that can post a picture of their front cab mount (to show how tall it is compared to the chassis) or measure the distance in height from the top of the chassis rail to the centre of the eye of the mount? It would be really appreciated if someone could help as we don’t have these models in Australia and I need to fabricate a cab mount to the correct height. Thanks!!!
  20. Is there anyone out there with a Western RS or RL that can post or send me a photo of their cab mount? The mount I want to see is the one at the front of the cab. I need to see how it differs in height to a standard East Coast or Oz R model mount relative to the chassis but can't find a picture on the net. Thanks!!
  21. Is there anyone out there with a Western RS or RL that can post or send me a photo of their cab mount? The mount I want to see is the one at the front of the cab. I need to see how it differs in height to a standard East Coast or Oz R model mount relative to the chassis but can't find a picture on the net. Thanks!!
  22. Firstly, let me start by saying sorry for all of the R model posts - I am new to the brand and am on a steep learning curve in order to get a restoration project done so the truck can go to work. With that said, can anyone explain how and when updates have been made to the cowl of R model cabs? I am aware of the +3 update but undertsand there was a change to the hood in the mid 80s which makes pre-update hoods incompatible with the post-update models. It seems the change is an extra inch to the hood for the front mounted intercooler. However, it also seems that the extra inch is at the rear of the hood and can be simply cut off to make it fit on pre-update models. If the extra inch is for the intercooler, I don't undertsand why it is at the rear of the hood. Did they move the cab back or change the cowl? If anyone can explain if there have been different cowls, that would be great. I realise later Superliners and RDs had a straight cowel but I am referring to the more traditional R Models from the 70s and 80s - from the East and West. Thanks!!
  23. I am fitting a Western RS model hood to an Australian R Model. I like the RS/RL hood shape but we don't have the Westerns in Oz so working out fitment has been interesting. One thing I want to know is how much higher the cab sits on a RS700 compared to a R700. Is there someone out there with a RS600/700 that would be willing to measure the height of their cab mounts? The measurement I am after is the distance from the top chassis bolt on the mount to the top of the mount. The mount on a standard Oz R model is basically level with the top chassis bolt but I am sure the RS cab sits higher. I have some Series 1 Superliner mounts that sit about 4 inches higher than standard but would like to know the proper height of a RS/RL cab. Hope someone can help. Thanks
  24. Mack thinks my tie rod cross tube is a 7QH243. I even have a length from them (60.06") of the tube, which matches mine. I still can't find a number on mine. Any of you old parts guys know if that sounds right for my 1970 R611ST? Old parts are non-returnable!
  25. I have just bought a 1985 R686 with a 300 E6 and 9 Speed Mack box. I have what are probably stupid questions but will ask them just the same as I am finding this truck to be a different experience. Questions are below - hope you can help. Is there an easy way to tell if it is a 2V or a 4V? If I leave the truck for more than a day or 2, it won't start. So I had a mechanic fix all of the air leaks and valves on Tuesday. However, I went back to the truck today (as I have it in storage until restored) and nothing happens when I turn the key (today is Saturday). I assume it is still leaking from somewhere. How many days should the air last in the starter tank between starts? Until now I have been filling the starter tank from the trailer line of another prime mover but that is not convenient given where it is parked. I am going to buy a compressor to fill the tank as needed. Any idea what the minimum size compressor I can use for this purpose? There is a manual primer on the fuel pump. Should manual priming only be needed if the truck hasn't been started for long periods? I will be raising the cab height using mounts from an Australian Valueliner or Superliner I. One of the shocks on the cab suspension needs replacing. I would like to fix it now but don't want to waste the money if I need different shocks when raising the cab height. I assume I could use the same shocks but just block up the fixing mounts. Does anyone have an opinion on this?Hope you can help - thanks!!
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