mechohaulic

no offence to author of post BUT this late at night it is somewhat comical. not to go off topic but I have yesterday's new paper !! sorry couldn't help myself: I do see it is listed in "parts for sale "🙄

would almost have to say , Nature is showing mankind who's the boss. after so many years of underground bomb testing/all the deep mining pits made with HD doses of explosives? under water fracking. lest we forget the cutting down of such large areas of forest/ amazon rain forest etc. for greed and a few bucks the global conditions are way out of Wack. weather of a violent nature is drastically changing.

I've heard Viagra helps repair "throttle performance also BUT I'm not much for taking pills. just once again proves the point as things get old ; they tend to become worn !!LMAO.

THANK YOU SIR . there are some small advantages of being older (ancient ); today's world of diagnostics seems to start at the high-tech side by passing the basics first. pump out put shaft linkage should be a spring-loaded arm. manual working arm can easily give eng more RPM's, few worn pivots can greatly affect things.

it's unique in its own way. so different looking makes it sharp looking rig. bet if you have stopping situation ; just pull the lanyard for that trumpet on roof . will make as much noise as a jake and possibly the same hold back, LOL

with such a difference in RPM's stationary VS road test; a far outer space question for me is what shape are the cab mounts ?? air ride or stationary mount ? when you got1700 rpm's did you work the pump with total linkage connected to pedal or manual pump operation using only lever on pump ?? worn linkage pedal to pump ? road test pedal not full max ??

Thankfully I also have those Mentors even today which are no longer here to physically help but they "offer assistance "in their own way. no offence but I must correct your statement. Earl WAS my mentor: Earl IS your mentor. to this very day.

probably wrong (again) BUT racking brain cells , engines having lead rear seal on bellhousing ALSO had a crankshaft which had a deflector made on crank just before the seal housing. the lead seal didn't have as much lube hitting it. lead seal took a few tries. a piece of lead 1/8th+ - dia . place in seal housing then with a round punch or round stock keep working lead into groove. no micrometers, measuring. Dial indicators. hold housing backwards trial / error over crankshaft. oh the good days.

You never replaced a lead seal ???come on now. they came out after the Nino/pinta / Santa Maria .🤣. well truthfully those three had rope rear seals LMAO. even after the lead seal , it was the same basic separate housing which bolted to rear flywheel housing. have to reread JoeH text. other then it was alum;; it still should have had separate oil seal housing ??? no ?? . a crack that high up by starter area would have an external leak ?? also ::there are no such things as a dumb question. more over it's "dumber to have a question and NOT ask it; just sayin

I will put a serious attempt to go over to #1 R-607T =1001 and take some pictures for comparison . #1 is not a BCR and memory cannot compare these two. I know it does NOT have the short oil filter. another project has taken monday (possibly beyond LOL). keep searching recommended locations for a vin/ serial number.

THANK YOU ;; Bob for the pictures . seems like a lot of neat stuff to me. with moving from here(Watertown, CT) a strong possibility, the less I have the better for now. for those contemplating retirement. hope you do better then I. never make plans but have high hopes of trip to NC. all it took was a phone call today changed plans for NC trip next week. farmer friend calls ; says " hey a guy has a farm tractor(diesel) and much more" , cleaning his yard = what's ever left is going to scrap . Monday am going to look at the tractor and what ever else in yard and barns. asking price for everything/anything== $ 0 , guy wants to see stuff go to good home not scrap yard. I'm counting hrs till monday am. do I need another project ??? nope! can I pass up a free diesel tractor == NOPE . LOL

I can see why !!!!!! mine just arrived. when it's thought "no way can coin two be as good or top coin one "" I'm wrong again (thankfully) . coin two is fantastic and beyond. I don't get excited much but these are nice looking and well made. THANK YOU ; Barry. side note :: anyone who has purchased the coins have number 54 or 55 of coin two. wild idea I have to complete the set having same number. I know I'm a sick bast--d ! LOL .. I will trade you a 44 or 45 from coin set two(which I have) for a 54/55 from set two ; one for one I will pay postage/ shipping or what ever.

yes Sir You have found it. can't figure this computer stuff too well for posting things as web sites, does look to have many items of interest. THANK YOU for showing correct site.

not associated with me. found this on auction zip. winter associates auctioneers has auction this saturday having many vintage auto related material. special interest is lot # 270 having Mack Bouchers, other lots = other trucks. sure hope this is helpful and didn't mess up someone here bidding. items are in Plainville, CT.

also keep in mind; since that service manual was written :: mid 60's ==oil technology has changed drastically. hopefully others on here having vintage trucks/ engines will provide insight as to modern day recommendations for oil.

wear ring has to go on far enough for flywheel to sit on crankshaft. after the lead seal ; (yea I know = how far back that is)! was replaced by updated rubber seal/ ring combo; install tools came later. bet not many on here used the flywheel to "set" wear ring ! do what you have to . ring installer was basically a wheel seal installer modified. have also seen a rear seal leak not due to poor seal/ ring but due to someone previously using a sharp chisel to cut/ remove ring. now no matter how many rings/seals installed the oil leaks slightly due to channel groove on crank between seal/ crank. as the BMT pro 😇 has earlier stated:: small amount of RTV between ring and crank seals many imperfections.

these latest pictures favor more the B C R idea. 1- those radiator front side panels look to be VERY EARLY change over or homemade. solid metal work not factory metal with imitation grooves pressed in. 2- other then someone installed an alternator, engine goes to the "B" model family. early intake manifold/ much older oil filter.3- radiator smaller B style having framework around it going to fire wall. 4- older style shutter stat. 5- oil fill on front valve cover; not side of block,6- non turbo? . 7- radiator fill =older version. 7- starter might be on passenger side; can't see in picture. still a real nice unit.

small piece left side of vent hole is the challenge. could be the work of an impeller; but hole is to clear cut. BMT " doctors "require more specific info please. is it leaking / does it wobble, and thanks for picture does help a lot. the brazing part ?????🙄

the "adjustable " grease fitting should be on top making the hole on lower driver side, which would make sense it's location. however it does appear to be a rough cut slot or just ruff housing casting. 100 % agreement with Geoff = purpose of the hole. what we are NOT told is whether it is leaking or just noticed the hole, by picture it could be clean from leaking or washed for photo session. if it had bad bearings on pump shaft to carve that channel; there should have been some serious noise at pump. take belts off and check wobble of pump shaft for quick diagnostic

first started reading the post; was hit with "wall of confusion", the ENDTF 673 part. F was explained in following sentences. I agree 100% on your idea of faulty gauge and tapping another in system to verify first . did the high pressure just start? how long have you had this unit ? did your change over to different oil ? ever do oil sample analyze? side note :: what model truck ?

thanks for the video. as was mentioned, not cost effective to acquire the trailer since it's not original to the Mack . still a shame to see it go to torches and scrap.

my metal building (30x50) with insulation had basically same air set=up with the compressor in a 45ft trailer parked tight to building;; less noise . piping (3/4 pipe) coming down both sides of shop went to a tee fitting at bottom with 12 in +- extensions having drain valves. air tool fittings were at the tee . any moisture coming down side wall pipes went lower then air tool fittings. also directly off compressor was a manifold consisting of water separator/ oiler/ regulators. painting things such as a B -80 worked well . everything in the building rusted but the air was dry.

may have been told "it only needs one to start" BUT it sure would start alot better with two(or more) goood batteries. gas engine relies on spark to fire. a diesel needs combustion. good grade of fuel and spinning fast enough to combust. AND I KNOW there are those diesels that turn slow and fire right up. based on experience older= less combust== takes a lot of spark to get the "cylinder " hot🤣😱

this country said good bye to one of the outstanding Heros that gave us the freedoms we (had) have . the last surviving service man from the U SS Arizona pearl harbor attack 12/07/41 has passed away. forever grateful are the AMERICAN people for his and those who gave it their all then and to this day.

mine are ordered. thanks