rjmcfarland

Sadly enough on my part, this seems to have been the issue. At this point that's what I'm going to say at least. Charged up a battery and threw it in there with the other one, seems to start no problem now. Maybe just needed more cranking power. As for the fuel leak, I think it is a small leak around the injector pump. Not the leak that I thought it was originally, I think I was just telling myself it was new because I had never noticed it. I was told originally it only needed one battery to start, which is probably true in the right conditions.

I have a record from the previous owner that says a fuel line was repaired, along with some seals and gaskets. That being said, I don’t know what exactly was replaced/repaired so I will take a look and see what looks new and what looks old. Thanks for your help across multiple threads.

It did when I drove it the other day. Fired right up a couple different times after turning it off. I believe its just the mechanical pump, nothing electric. Can't say for certain though as this kind of motor is way out of my wheelhouse. I'll have to take a look tomorrow at it and see what I can find. Unfortunately the hand primer and many associated fuel lines are located in a spot that is incredibly hard to reach so it's going to be time consuming no doubt. Thanks for all your help so far.

I found a shop near me that keeps the 22.5 inch Dayton rims 8.25 width in stock and they should be getting more in about 2 weeks. I found a chart online that says a 12x22.5 tire is approved for mounting on a 8.25 width rim, but I'm curious why you think it would need to be a 9 to fit. Don't want to get the wrong rim and not be able to keep the same tire "size". Thanks for all your help on this thread.

They are Donaldson lube filters, P551807. Well, at least the one that is affected is. I can't see the text on the one next to it. The fuel filter is in a pain in the rear spot next to the passenger front wheel. Took me forever to even find it. I think most of the filter locations were moved at some point and have spin ons. As for losing prime, any idea where to start on what could be causing that?

Bit of a long story here so I apologize. I've owned my 1977 CF600 for about a year now. ENDT-675 motor. Admittedly after driving it about 4 hours on the highway to get it home last May, I parked it and drove it maybe a couple more times before letting it sit for a few months, including over the winter. Priorities. I came back around two weeks ago to a truck that wouldn't start. Two dead batteries which is an easy fix. I should have removed them for the winter but didn't even think about it. Replaced one of them and still couldn't get it to start. Cranks like it wants to start but just won't. Now I'm thinking fuel issue because it sat all winter. Replaced the fuel filter and added some diesel 911 + some fresh diesel. This is the first diesel motor of this size I have dealt with so I'm really shooting in the dark just hoping something will work. Still no start. I then read a post where a gentleman says he puts his foot to the floor to start his rig and cranks for 15 - 20 seconds, so I try this. Fires up after maybe 10 seconds, tons of white smoke, but all seems fine. I then drove the rig around for a little over an hour, came back and parked it. Everything seemed normal. Couple days later (today) it cranks but doesn't start again. Open the drivers door and it smells incredibly strong like diesel fuel. I go to look in the doghouse and see white smoke coming from the exhaust in multiple different places. Not a lot, but a noticeable amount coming from the muffler and some holes in the exhaust pipe. I've read that white smoke when trying to start isn't an unusual thing but it made me nervous so I stopped. So a few questions: What am I missing? Why did the rig start the other day but today it cranks and won't start? Should I get another battery and see if it just needs both to start? Is the white smoke just a sign that I'm getting fuel, or something to be worried about? What about the strong diesel fuel smell? Also: I noticed this peculiarity happening to one of my oil filters when I checked the doghouse. Something to be worried about, or should I just replace the effected filter and build a heat shield in front of it? I'm guessing it's coming from the incredibly hot exhaust coming off the turbo. I could also wrap the exhaust with heat shield in hopes of stopping whatever is happening (I assume just too much heat). Thank you to anyone with any insight. Much appreciated.

Thanks! I’m not 100% sure what I’m going to do with it yet, but it likely won’t be all slow speed parades, so I want to be safe, especially if I have passengers. This rig served Arcadia Kansas for nearly 20 years.

Thanks for your help. Considering the price of all new rims and tires, would it be more worthwhile to convert to hub pilot?

Hey everyone, I have owned a 1977 Mack CF600 for about a year now, and I think its about time I start addressing some of its "problems" and getting it into better shape. In service in rural Kansas only a couple of years ago, it was retired and sold to a private party who addressed some long term issues it had, and it was later resold again to the person I purchased it from. This is an older photo and I have since removed the business decals as they were from the previous owner. It's also sporting a mix of different lights that the last department installed, something else I will probably try and correct eventually. I am in contact with the Mack Museum for more information about it's history, manuals, etc. but I am still waiting to get anything. The biggest thing I want to get sorted a the current moment are the wheels and tires. Like most other Mack apparatus at this time, it has 20 inch Daytons which now sport a very outdated and hard to find tire size. All of them are currently 11.00-20. Tread is getting low and they are starting hairline to crack. Searching around me for used options brings up a lot of old and worn out tires that I wouldn't feel safe putting on this rig. Through my research it seems as though I can have a shop swap out the 20 inch rims to 22.5 inch rims while keeping the cast spoke center, opening myself up to more tires and going tubeless as well. Anything I'm missing here information-wise? Is it as "easy" as swapping for the 22.5 inch rims and finding 11.00-22.5 tires? Thanks for any help, this style of wheel is completely new to me as our modern apparatus don't sport Daytons (obviously).