mechohaulic

thanks for the video. as was mentioned, not cost effective to acquire the trailer since it's not original to the Mack . still a shame to see it go to torches and scrap.

my metal building (30x50) with insulation had basically same air set=up with the compressor in a 45ft trailer parked tight to building;; less noise . piping (3/4 pipe) coming down both sides of shop went to a tee fitting at bottom with 12 in +- extensions having drain valves. air tool fittings were at the tee . any moisture coming down side wall pipes went lower then air tool fittings. also directly off compressor was a manifold consisting of water separator/ oiler/ regulators. painting things such as a B -80 worked well . everything in the building rusted but the air was dry.

may have been told "it only needs one to start" BUT it sure would start alot better with two(or more) goood batteries. gas engine relies on spark to fire. a diesel needs combustion. good grade of fuel and spinning fast enough to combust. AND I KNOW there are those diesels that turn slow and fire right up. based on experience older= less combust== takes a lot of spark to get the "cylinder " hot🤣😱

this country said good bye to one of the outstanding Heros that gave us the freedoms we (had) have . the last surviving service man from the U SS Arizona pearl harbor attack 12/07/41 has passed away. forever grateful are the AMERICAN people for his and those who gave it their all then and to this day.

mine are ordered. thanks

don't think they have too much cell phone time in front of a paver= if any it's limited and calling in for load schedule. luck out if your dumping into a single dump paver== I never had the honor. before the days of chrome/ polished alum wheels ; it was back up to spreader, hyd pump brought the rollers of spreader into rear truck wheels to pull it as you raised body slowly . there were the few that would not pull a paver cause it made marks on rear painted rims.

in the day ,I would "sweat bullets" on the up hill grade paving projects. pulling a manual spreader then having the side extensions out!! watch the speed/ body height under trees. has to be a lot less stress having a self-powered paving machine. takes some of the pressure off truck driver. can spend more time concentrating on dump body.

thanks for the update pictures AND 5/5 info . show is up street from candle shop ;not in their yard if I recall. drop wife off (if we are still together) at candle shop then to show I go. how did the toolbox idea end up ??

would not go with definitely a BCR;; your DM also has radiator side panels if I recall correctly. also number one R model ==R607T- 1001 has the side panels since that is one very early R having many B model parts. HAPPY EASTER to You also Sir.

study the pictures show a lot of B model; or confusing could be a very early R. front axle hub caps/ early style R heavy one piece hood and the Mack name front and sides. can't judge by the interior== a BCR comes completely groomed (if ordered as such).

another possibility in conversation it may be a '64 not '54. was involved in two B C R conversions ; this could be a BCR. which for info stands for B model converted to R model. does have the B model radiator -looking at the two front side spacers used in very early R's still having B model components. much like a '66 DM being restored. on BMT.😇

nice unit. question I have is location of two speed button on shift lever? it's on left side closer to driver. sitting here splitting the make believe button and trying to recall; buttons were mounted on right side of lever making it easy for 3rd and 4th fingers to pull lever up/ down. guess using thumb works .

am I seeing a wood floor in your shop?? that must keep much dampness out ;; nice . excellent work on the B also.

similar to a 20-speed quad becomes an 18 speed , ratios close or conflict making unnecessary or impractical to use . doesn't say they can't be used. out come ????

ok !! now what the heck is a potetchiometer??? don't be using these big words on us old people. LOL

as stated by one of the BMT master Techs :: the sender must be clocked right . have seen gauges which stopped mid way due to sender installed at wrong position, larger barrel tanks were good for this. float will go to empty spot= float up to just above 1/2, higher then 1/2the float gets stuck internally on inside barrel . adjustable senders were made too long to reach bottom then install with float angle side to side not front to back.

long term disruption of economics due to the "accident" will be felt for a long time. airplane accidents don't take out enough lives for the idiots behind these events. with election on the horizon , I'd expect a few more disruptions will take place. according to news ;;investigators didn't board ship for over 24 hrs. number one red flag!!

checking the wires in all pictures no matter what style plug, they all should still be ground wires meaning none have positive voltage. picture having a sender with two terminals would still be just grounds. newer "updated" unit could be made cheaper eliminating second terminal putting chassis ground wire on one of the mounting screws. one version had a spade terminal on the sender housing also. picture of '79 basically a push on plug having one wire from plug to sender ground other wire going into harness would go to gauge

now if the first and last picture represent uber drivers;;I'm call for uber right now. LOL can even call Uber #2 having those headlights ; won't matter if it's dark out.

what's your plan ; alum wheels or inner flat silver with outer lip painted same as truck (green)?

there's those two dreaded words :::"updated and plastic". purposely stated explanation given was based on old school way before the update and plastic became common. old school didn't need modules/ resistor/ computers and others. Things worked fine TOO.

both wires were ground wires which is why original post stated the two wires checked out as ground. one wire (black ) would be a common ground going to sender mounting. second wire (red) is also a ground but going to the fuel gauge independent of chassis ground. it regulates the ground circuit going to gauge. the "hot "live wire is connected to gauge in dash cluster. sorry for confusion.

don't forget there was a common fix for a fuel tank gauge== it is called a clean stick behind the seat. also very accurate.

the reason for separate ground on the sender is because of the rubber straps which will cause the tank to loose "common " truck ground IN MANY CASES. the center post on old school electronics was technically a ground wire to gauge. in days of gas driven units it wasn't always the best idea to have a live 6/12 volt power to a gas/diesel tank. think of a scale model choo choo train in a house. as the operator turns the control =basically a rotating reostat switch the choo choo goes faster and faster and faster;; still with me?? now as the fuel in the tank of a truck lowers the floating sender lowers also. this causes the center post on sender to have lower ground voltage. lower ground to the gauge causes the needle to read lower. if your headlights have a bad ground don't the light get dimmer????? using a meter on the head light with bad ground, will you not get a lower then 12 volt read out??? the fuel gauge gets a lower ground reading causing it to fluctuate. I did say earlier it was a short version using improper technology. what do you expect from an ole man explaining old school electronics.

both wires should be a ground circuit . positive feed will be at the gauge . ground in == ground out to gauge. as the fuel float in tank raises and lowers the rheostat inside on the sender changes "continuity"= short version with wrong terminology, 12-volt ground (black wire) going in/ on sender may be 8 volts out sender (red wire) resulting in gauge not fully grounded and show half tank. taking the red wire to frame providing it does NOT have power and does show as a ground the fuel gauge should jump to full. KEEP IN MIND THIS IS OLD SCHOOL system!! can NOT say it's the same on all this modern computer stuff. I'm trying to put two added brake lights on my 2021 jeep gladiator and I find out it has to be calibrated at the computer. 3 simple tiny wires . checking system having rs light off with my lawn tractor battery ; think two wires touched. now there are only 3 of 4 led lights working on right side and the dash keeps telling me signal light out. point is staying on topic todays electronics are all screwed up.