Ezrider

for about 100 bucks you can get 30 lbs of r 134a if you get it in the drum. i don't know how often you work on ac systems but for me with two semi's 3 pickups and 2 cars it seems every year you have to fix the ac on something. comes out way cheaper in the long run than buying the regular do it yourself ac cans. then you can get a vaccum pump and manifold gauge set for about another 100 to get a proper recharge

opps sorry i kinda forgot about this thread. it took a lot of poking around and messing with it to figure this thing out but turns out the actual park break pump setup is under the drivers step. park break has its own hydro pump and resivor then the actual mechanism works kinda like a maxi but uses hydro pressure to overcome the spring to unlock a drive line break. pressure sensor was bad causing the malfunction.

iv called it ventilating the block, putting a window in it, FUBAR, or just blown up. i do got to give that old toyota credit though when i blew it up i pulled off to the side of the road and then turned the engine off with the key. it was still running and idling after being ventilated. had it towed home and i moved it around a few times under its own power before pulling the engine. iv got a v8 under the hood now but a lot of little things to do to finnish the installation been kinda on the back burner for a while

my e-7 460 likes to be kept above 1350-1400 or it falls on it face.

if i had the chance, I would take the cash, dash to the bank in a flash.

there is a company around here called turd burgler and on the back of the truck it says caution this truck contains obama's stimulus package

im really not sure what the story is on that one saw it on Facebook shortly after seeing the broken crank one. im guessing probably a ship looks expensive anyway

good point on the trailer lights, i was thinking led's witch are polarity sensitive. reg bulbs don't care what way the current goes. your break controller defiantly looks like the way to go. nice setup

for the most part for trailers designed to be pulled by pickups behind a semi you don't need trailer breaks. the weight of the combination will normally exceed the trailers weight limit before you exceed the tractor break ratings. that being said if it was going to be a regular thing i would want to get the trailer breaks set up. another thing you have probably already thought of is you will need to re-wire the trailer lights to positive ground as well.

i was drooling over that pic a few days ago. awesome picture of your truck

could be worse though

oofff that looks bad

how the f do you throw a mattress out while driving. iv put mattresses in trucks before and they can be a pain to snake in and out threw the door with the truck stationary. hell even a fridge could be tough while driving.

this was one of my Christmas presents this year. it might take me till next year to watch them all...lol

i know eaton fuller rears have had some issues with cracking, i have welded a couple of them up another one we welded on once and then it was starting to leak again before they blew out the 3rd so we just found a complete junk yard axle with a matching gear set and bolted it in. memory is a little foggy but i want to say it was around 5k complete hub to hub. for the forward diff

the seat is also fully inflated with air and does not even look like she could reach the pedals if the seat was in more of a driving position she would not even be able to see the top of his head where he is at. i have had to enplane the massive blind spots on a semi more than once to clueless people on job sites. like people trying to give you hand signals but they are standing by your passenger side front tire. i wish there was a program where high school kids going to driving school to get there licence would get to ride with a trucker for a day so they might actually grasp the concept of the space/blind spots ect that trucks need.

sorry to hear that.

trying to figure out a issue with a med duty single axle dump truck that has hydro breaks with a electric over hydrolic park break. its a 97 chevy cab kinda simular to like a top kick or kodiak but a bit older. its got a hydo boost break booster runs off the power steering made by bendex and a electric motor on the break booster witch i assume is how it apply the park break. have not spent more than a couple min looking it over so far but just got it pulled in and the snow melting off. any way the breaks seem to work good the park break mechanism seems to work good but when you release the parking break the the day time running lamps come on but then the park break light starts flashing on and off witch then flashes the day time running lamps flash on and off. the breaks are not actually applying. then after a little while the lights stop flashing and the service park break light comes on. this system is not something iv ever messed with fimillar with air breaks and hydo breaks but not hydro breaks trying to be air breaks. so if anyone knows this system.

well maybe the last chapter in this one. fired right up first thing this morning lit off with no installation issues no check engine lights no leaks finished the last few little things. runs good drives good. but the engine they supplied me to put in has a little cam phaser noise. then they bached at my bill even though i gave them a pretty hefty discount off the actual amount of time that i put into it. they thought a engine swap should be $500 umm maybe for a car made in the 80's. ended up dropping a extra 100 off the bill. they supplied the engine so if the engine has a problem its not my problem. i called them about the noise (witch really isn't too bad) as soon as i fired the engine up for the first time had them come over and listen too it and they said to just Finnish putting everything together. told them if they want to put cam phasers in it to bring it back and id give them a break on the labor to do them. all in all they seem happy and said they would drive it for a while and decide if they want to do cam phasers or not. makes me look forward to getting back to making money with the truck in the spring. next project is already pulled in a single axle medium duty dump truck that im sure to do some head scratching on i might post up another thread on that one luckally that one there in no hurry for

iv never even seen anything like that in person so ill be of no help but i will say that i dig the idea that would make a very cool camper

the headlight restoration kits work well. i normally make my own "kit" some 1000-1500-2000 grit sand paper and some buffing compounds normally have all that stuff on the shelf already anyway. i have used the restoration kits before though and they work fine. if they are only a little bit hazy just a good rub with some compound can clean them up

18 hours in. ready to fire less fluids. picked up a new oil filter and fluids on my way home should be firing it up not long after i get back at it tomorrow. then assuming all that goes good a little bit of buttoning up some little odds and ends recharging the a/c and it will be done.

that could engage my automatic steering wheel lock.

well things went fairly smooth on it today. pulled the intake off the new motor and got it ready to go in then it dropped right in place. only little hickup today was the dip stick tube on the replacement engine was mangled and kinked. so i pulled the dipstick tube off the old engine and then when i went to take the dipstick tube off the new engine it broke off at the block. glad i decided to do that with the engine out of the car rather than wait till i had it in. other than that everything went together pretty good. all the accessory are back on motor is bolted to the trans less torque converter bolts. starters back in still have the exhaust fuel rail and torque converter bolts left then putting the body radiators ect back together at about 14 hours of time put into it so far. i think i can see 16 hours being quite doable after you have done a few of them.