Ezrider

no slider, the previous owner made a window screen that velco's over the window so there is a Velcro strip on the window frame for that to attach to. i figured id leave it on there for now not that ill be sleeping with the windows down much this time of the year but come summer time i normally sleep with windows open and the truck shut off. so i thought it was a good idea. the truck has the wing vent windows with power up down windows, don't know if they all came like that they probably did.

thanks for the welcomes. and 70" mid roof sleeper is huge for me as well...lol iv been in a 42" flat top longer than i care to think about. first time i woke up and was able to stand to put my pants on i wasn't sure i could remember how to do it.

a few more pictures

well i found this forum a few weeks ago and have made a few posts but haven't yet introduced myself im based out of Bismarck nd, I haul sand gravel and aggregates primary. however most of my work takes me to jobs in the oil producing area's of the state, do a lot of road work jobs as well as some rail expansion work and a lot of other stuff. i recently bought my first mack truck witch is a 2000 mack vision e7 460 13 speed with 3.70 rears. iv known a few people with similar trucks and they were good trucks for them. the things that drew me to the mack were being able to have a 70 inch sleeper and still have a decent empty weight. the way the tanks and battery boxes ect are arranged i can put a pusher axle on this truck without stretching the frame or moving everything that's mounted to the frame. ( a friend of mine has a almost identical truck same wheel base and sleeper arrangement ect and had no issues with putting a pusher on his) i also do quite a bit of off road driving. although this is not exactly a off road mack still many things in the design lend itself well to off road use. for someone that needs a sleeper cab truck often gets paid by weight and still has to be able to take the truck offroad as well as sleep in it the truck seemed to be a perfect fit. onto the truck itself, i was browsing truck paper while i was waiting in line to get loaded and came across a ad. reasonably priced truck lots of recent work done including a inframe overhaul reasonably priced. so i press the call button and talked to the guy a bit about the truck he seemed pretty decent. later that night i bring up the ad on my laptop to get a better look at the pictures. at that point i realize it was a guy that i knew who was selling the truck and i actually had seen the truck many times. so we talk back and forth a bit and eventually made a deal on the truck. at 17k for the truck 1k for him to drive it 1000 miles to deliver it too me. included a extra set of lug recap drive tires and some other extra thrown in. truck delivered spent a day getting things setup and ready to run. (my fld and other trailer also in this pic but the spotlight is defiantly on the mack) first day of working the new truck (didn't take long to get it dirty...lol) a shot of my fld, witch has been a real good truck to me. i hope the mack does just as good for me, i think its going to end up outshining the fld though, and is certainly a lot more comfortable. the dog seems to approve so far

i use a blue parrot, witch i like. i have seen the cb's that say they are blue tooth but never really thought about it. do you have to key up the mike when you talk back to the person on the phone or is it just a constant mic like a headseat? what about when you need to transmit or receive cb while your on Bluetooth?

have you checked the switch itself yet?

i like that idea but i lack fine wood working skills to make somthing that looked good like that.

If any boost in oil psi its nominal at best Rocker assembly seems fine without actually taking it apart. When I discovered the problem I had taken the valve covers off solenoid appeared to be functional. But i changed it anyway. I then started the truck with the valve cover removed to inspect the operation. Started walked around and notice the Jake spacer quickly filling with oil. Half a second of head scratching till I realized what was going on. Rocker assembly completely submerged in oil. Quickly shut it off and oil had already run over the top of the Jake spacer. And that was under key idle. Im sure while running down the road that head was probably full of oil to the top of the valve cover.

well i finnally made it home and got to check things out, i found that one of the freeze plug like plugs in the end of the rocker shaft had come out, found the plug in the bottom of the rocker valley. i had no luck finding a new one on sunday and have to get heading back out so i just re-installed the old plug, would have rather not done that but put a little bit of loctite on it and re-installed it, the jake works now, i guess if it stops working again ill have to call mack and get a new plug.

i would like to have a place to add a couple aditional switches and gauges, pretty much all my available places are already taken and there is some prime realestate on the dash that is wasted by that little square cubby hole deal. in the center of the dash. do they have a flat panel that can go inplace of the cubby hole factory or aftermarket?

i can't see any reason not too, you will really like the 18 speed. iv had several trucks with 18's 13's 10's and 9's. 18's are a slight step above a 13, but splits in the high side are normally what is needed. not a huge differance in drivability between the two but both a huge step of from a 10 or 9 in driveability. my current truck has a 13, if i ever have to replace the trans ill probably replace it with a 18 as i do a lot of offroad but no issues with using a 13. biggest differance is 200 rpms between gears vrs 400. so you would be able to run 1600 at 55 vrs 1300 or 1800 by running in 17th you don't half to use every gear you can skip gears you dont need but there there when you do need them.

yup thats my plan when i make it back home. i went ahead and ordered a jake solinoid and had it added to the parts im going to have the wife pick up so i have it on hand when i get home, I am hoping that is my problem.

i took a hot wire directly to the pass threw conector on the head and it did not activate the jake break on the rear head. so that would have bypassed any electrical issues prior to the pass threw conector on the head.

ok so iv done more reading on jake brakes over the last few days than i care to think about (never had a faulty Jake before so never learned much about them) of course that's the upside now i get to learn about them. according to a pdf i found online and a cheap ass shitty analog volt meater and a peice of wire (haven't made it home to my shop yet so i was messing with it in a truck stop parking lot and don't have a whole lot of tools with me. from reading the pdf (witch i think is actually for 2003+ mack motors) i should have a low amp 12v at all times on both jakes and when the jakes activate it is suppose to up the current to energize the solenoid. now i cant actually acitave the jake from under the hood but i found closer to 6 volts on both leads for the pass threw. (front jake works both got the same reading so should be fine and its literally like a 5 dollar analog volt meter) so this would indicate to me that the wireing prior to the pass threw is not suspect) so now after that i got a little more gutsy and increased the idle rpm to 1000 unplugged both pass thews and used a peice of wire to jump the pass threw. front activated the jake when i did this. the rear did not. now we get real technical both pass threw connectors gave off about the same small arch when touching my hot wire too them, (not a dead short arch just a small visible spark like you would expect on a 1-2amp draw. this would indicate to me that the wiring from the pass threw to the solenoid is good. obviously im not going to tear the valve cover off in a truck stop parking lot so that is going to have to wait till i get home. but would you think it would be a safe enough bet that the solenoid is the problem to call up mack at home and order up a Jake solenoid and have the wife go pick it up so its there waiting for me when i get home. (might not make it home till next weekend and mack is only open m-f)

thats a good idea, i suppose if i have high jakes with a jumper wire i know that the problem lies in the wireing before it gets to the head, if its the same, id be looking at pulling the vave covers, inspecting the wire from the pass threw to the solinoid and if that looks fine replace the jake solinoid assuming nothing else looks out of place? if the jumper wire does not activate both sets of jakes is there a way to test the solinoid? if the jumper wire does work is there any harm in leaving it that way, about all i have ever used on any truck is high or off.

i found only the front jakes are working. unplug the pass threw connector on the rear head no change in jaking. plug it back in and unplug the pass threw on the front head no jake at all. whats the best way to figure out if the problem is before the pass threw or under the valve covers.

i recently purchased a 2000 mack vision cx613 460 e7 recent documented inframe at mack dealer including new heads ( slightly less than 2 years ago 120k miles ago) one issue is i belive the jakes are only working on the low stage. jake works in both high and low settings but dosent seem to be any different as far as braking power showing less than 5psi on the boost gauge at 2k rpm with jake on high setting (same on low setting). switch seems to be functioning properly as far as i can tell 5 leads on the switch two switched hots and looks like posibly two switched grounds and 1 constant ground (as far as i could tell plugging away at it with a volt meter and messing with the switch) i pulled the two plugs off (one to each head) the connections look clean plugged them back in. what else should i look at. oil psi seems good 20 psi hot idle 50-60 psi running down the road. engine pulls and runs good, but jaking is only slightly better than hanging your arm out the window...lol