Ezrider

really more gap with less free play should give you more break squeeze. 1/2 + gap with 2" free play would give more clutch break squeeze than 7/16's with 2 inch free play. i normally setup my clutch's for closer to 2.5 inches of free play with right around a 1/2 gap and always have plenty of break squeeze. after your first setup of the clutch though you should never have to touch the linkage unless someone else has monkey'd with it. neither adjustment is terribly critical as long as they are close on the bearing clearance and free play is in range the clutch will work good. the biggest problem i have run across is people not knowing what there doing and adjusting the linkage every time they are running out of free play. then by the time you measure the bearing clearance and set it where its supposed to be you have 5 inches of free play.

there are a few different style clutches out there that don't all adjust the same way but the majority are the way macks described.

where i normally start with diagnosing a jake break problem is idle the engine up to 11-1200 rpm unplug the pass threw connectors and apply + power to the each pass threw individually and see if it activates the Jake break. this will tell you if the isues is under the valve cover or electrical before it gets there.

i assume your talking about the bridge between the two valves rather than the rocker arm itself? on my 2000 e7 460 on the bridge there is a cup bit over a half circle that actually goes over the valve stem and keeps it in place. with a open slot to be able to stick a feeler gauge, my thought is maybe the corners of the slot cutout for the feeler gauge is broken allowing it turn and walk off the stem. otherwise the only way i could see it turning off the stems is if you had a metric asston of valve lash and it was jumping around allover the place.

i pull side dump belly dump and hopper bottom with my mack, don't use end dumps so i cant really offer much advice there and don't know your local laws. for me i run 7 axles and up to 105,500lbs on harvest or winter 10% permits (otherwise legal for 96k) 4.17 gears would not be my first choice but not a bad choice, i would not choose them because my grain hauls tend to be longer 100-400 miles each way. we also have speed limits up to 75mph and a lot of 70mph speed limits. loaded i typically curse 65-70 i might run 75 at times when legal to if i am pushing it on time. i have 3.70's witch i feel is a good middle ground gear. i would take 4.17's before i would 3.36's or 3.55's but i feel for me the 3.70's is the best compromise. if you have lower speedlimits and more hill's the 4.17's might be the better choice. 4.17's would be pretty nice at times sometimes the e-7's tq at low rpms is a bit lacking for getting a 105,500 load moving in some situations offroad in spongy ground. ideally i would like my 3.70's with a 18 speed with the lower reduction low gear as opposed to my 13 speed. otherwise iv overall very happy with my setup for the work i do. my specs are 2000 mack cx613 70" midroof sleeper eaton 13 speed 40klb rears single frame e-7 mack 460hp ch's are probably slightly better suited the set forward axle gives you a little more bridge length here we must conform to bridge law witch also means empty weight is very important too, witch is one of the big things i like about my cx. i have a tri axle (2 drive axles 1 pusher in the drive group and then the steer axle) 70" sleeper and my tractor empty weight is under 20k with 240 gallons of fuel onboard and a wet kit and pusher axle. i think door sticker weight on my truck is like 16k sum-thing.

you guys are making me feel pretty small about the engine i built this winter for a project....lol nothing special 4bolt main truck block vortec heads with some very mild exaust side porting, roller rockers lt-4 hot cam 9.5:1 compression. will probably make 370-380 on a engine dyno on a good day. its going to go into my jaguar xjs convertible combined with a 700-r4 built it low compression because i may run a power adder on later either no2 or a small roots style blower. my goal is to have a good street car that can run a mid to high 12s 1/4 mile well actually first goal is to have a car that runs at all good ole lucas took the car off the road a little while back.

this winter wasn't to kind to us in north Dakota either. can finally seem more ground than snow now.

i don't know how much praise the driver deserves because it looked like the whole thing was started by him not paying attention but a hell of a save. new underwear for sure.

nice score, this is why i try not to go to auctions.....lol i already have too much stuff around that i don't have time to work on. i probably would have out bid you on that truck...lol look forward to watching some progress on it

letting it go too long/ valve wear would explain tight intake valves but it doesn't explain loose exhaust valves. nor the inconsistency in valve lash push rod mix up theory makes sense. cyl heads were replaced during the in frame. i wan't to say they were new heads but they very well could have been re-mack heads, id have to look it up to be sure. but i know for sure they were not the old heads sent out to a outside machine shop, was done at a Mack dealer and heads were replaced. i wouldn't think they would use a bunch of mix matched valve seats. but i suppose even that could be possible. i know i am certainly glad i didn't wait any longer before getting around to doing the overhead

I don't plan on stopping running my 2000 CX anytime soon. Did a little preventative on the frame this winter, was starting to get some rust jacking between a number of brackets on the frame. Took the brackets off, knocked the rust scale off, cleaned them up, sealed in between and put them back together. One of the rear sleeper mounts was replaced by the previous owner due to rot which is weird cause the other side is original and flawless. Other than mentioned, the truck doesn't have any rot issues. At some point, I would like to stretch the wheelbase on the truck a bit. At that time, I may opt to completely replace the frame rails. The truck could use a paint job which I will eventually get to but it still looks decent for now. Most don't really notice the paint flaws right away but I notice, primarily the clear coat is starting to fail. Most people assume my truck is much newer than it actually is. The only reason I might ever get rid of this truck is if I decide I need/want a large car, or quit trucking. but other than that I plan to just keep fixing this truck. if I have to put 20k into it, so be it.

so today i finnally got around to setting the overhead on my mack, as much as i hate to admit it i have never had the overhead done on this truck, of course when i bought it had very few miles on a rebuild but now with about 300k on the rebuild and my fuel millage has seemed to be worse lately. i figured i better get it done. now i have also never done the rack on a semi back when i had my freightliner i had it done by a shop. i don't really use any shops for anything anymore and have done valve lash adjustments on auto's many times and have the literature that includes the procedure for my engine for setting the valve lash so not something i felt uncomfortable with in the least. took me probably 4 hours start to Finnish.i wanted to share something i found very odd when i did the overhead on this engine that does not seem quite right to me, but having never done it myself i thought i would ask if its normal to find this when running the rack or was the rack was never properly set when the engine was inframed?i checked the valve lash on each valve prior to adjusting them and here are some things i found oddmost intake valves were vary tight the tightest one i could feel a tinny bit of lash my pushing on the rocker arm but i could not get a .001 feeler gauge in there. spec is .016 with the exception of #3 witch was dead on .016 and #6 witch was .014 all the rest of the intakes had less than .003 lash.exhaust valves all sloppy loose. with the acceptation of #3 again witch was only .025 (spec is .024) and #6 witch was .22 (too tight) all the rest were .028-..30now for the jake breaks old spec is .015 new spec for updated jakes witch i have are .021? anyway i chose to set them at .015 but here is what i found for pre adjustment lash on the jakes #1 couldn't get a .001 feeler gauge in there it was so tight #2 .027 #3 .018 #4 .021 #5 .010 #6 .016anyone else find it odd how far allover the place the lash was before adjustments? i haven't drove the truck sense running the rack but it does seem to idle smoother now.

i maintain my equipment to a very high standard. it amazes me some of the junk that i see out on the roads.

that is amazing work, i wish i had the skill for doing that.

i have never done it but i know a standard 9 speed can have a splitter box added to it to make it into a 13, there is also the 9c that is a 13 speed that already has a spliter box just its blocked out. a 9ll i would guess cannot be converted as its already going to have a splitter for deep reduction. but you may be able to trade that one out for the normal 13 back box. i really doubt you could compound them. although that would be a pretty sweet setup if you could. but as far as i am aware a standard 9 speed, is the same forward section as a 13. i even know someone that had a 10 speed they added a 13 rear splitter too and made it kinda a funkey 15 speed where you split the top rather than having a deep reduction like a normal 15.

at this rate in a few years you will be able to buy a f350 put a commercial 5th wheel on it and air breaks and be able to use it as a semi tractor. 925 lb-ft; the maximum horsepower holds at 440. Ford boasts that the F-350 can now lug up to 32,000 pounds. under-bumper receiver hitch rated for towing up to 21,000 pounds. Increasingly larger ball mounts are nested one within the other to support 2.0-, 2.5-, and 3.0-inch trailer balls that is insane for a pickup truck.

i would just take that cross member out, grind that mess off of there stop drill the end of the crank v the crack out probably 95% of the way out with a angle grinder give it a bit of a pre-heat and then mig weld it probably 1-2 inch at a time and peen each section of weld as you do them and i would be 99.9% confident in that repair without doing a frame insert

yup overhead, i don't think there is any markings on the switch unless mine are worn off.

mine is a 2000 and it throws some smoke between gears. its normal for pre emissions trucks to blow a little smoke between gears. as long as it clears right up as the boost biulds egt's are running cool and your not blacking out the sun probably nothing wrong.

used red loctite. my local napa didn't have them. do have a mack dealer near by but both times iv had the problem they were not open at the time and i needed to get going. ill probably get one in my next parts order though so ill have one on hand. if there is a better solution though i would prefer to do something different with it.

i did chew him a bit but it was not intentional. by all rights i should have made that company pay for it, but iv done probably $60-$70k worth of work for them this year. i am sure they would have paid if i would have asked but i didn't. had it been a company that i don't work with often i for sure would have gone after them for the damage. but it wasn't perfect to start with now its better than before and was not real expensive 50 bucks for the side they damaged. a few hours time. now if it happened again tomorrow. yeah someone would be paying.

i understand the plugs in the ends of the rocker shafts are known to pop out on this engine. iv had it happen twice now.its been the same one both times and both times i did a less than ideal fix by just re-installing the old plug. first time was about 2 years ago but this last time was on Sunday night when i went to leave town i lost the second stage of jakes and noticed a drop in oil pressure. so i turned back around pulled back into the shop at 11pm left again at 1:45am and still got my load on time.i have heard there is a fix for this problem by threading the ends of the shaft and installing threaded in plugs rather than the freeze plug style. or a rivet of some kinddoes any one here have any knowledge or details on this fix? i am thinking this winter id like to fix this once and for all

so a few weeks ago a excavator operator decided to try to rip my tail light assembly off my trailer. tail light assembly also doubles as the mudflap bracket and rear fender bracketso today i made a new one. bought enough material to make two of them. the other side is a little rusty as well. (neither side had holes in it before the one side got hit but getting hit opened up a bunch of rust holes.) total material cost was $90 for material to make 2 of them lets say + 10 for shop supply's (welding wire gas ect) so $50 each a lot cheaper than factory replacements and a lot heavier duty made the new ones from all 1/4" material you can see in the picture of the smashed one where i had previously had to beef up the mounting point to the trailer and the other side you can see is sagging a little so it was needing the treatment the other one had previously gotten. plus they are getting kinda rusty so i guess its a good excuse to make 2 better beefier ones. the one for the other side is started but not finished yet.

i have a legacy silver seat in leather very comfy seat, reasonably priced.

parts car? i don't really see any usable parts.