Lmackattack

If you pull a low boy the trailer neck is narrow and will not cause interference with the fenders unless you are making a sharp turn on an incline. That's where you have to be carefull. This is where a hi mount 5th wheel helps get the space needed between wheels and trailer bottom. Another option is that Some people run half fenders on the truck and half fenders on the trailers goose neck.

E7 300-350 or 400 is one of the last good mechanical Mack engines made. E6 was just as good but the e7 have more grunt

It really depends on how tall your 5th wheel is and what type of trailer you will be pulling. Camelbacks have lots of articulation so you want to find the happy medium between the top of your tires and 5th wheel surface. If you have a hi mount 5th wheel and plan to pull flatbed,end dump,or tanker trailers the fenders can sit up high as those type of trailers tend to have much more clearance betwwn the tires and bottom of trailer. If you plan to pul van trailers you need to really check for proper clearance below the 5th wheel. I set mine up to pull lowboy and end dump. They sit kinda high and when I have a van trailer hooked to it I have to be real carful. As far as mounting them. I jacked up each rear axel and measured the max amount of wheel travel they had above the frame. When I mounted the fenders I set them about an inch higher. If I recall I had about 6" of upward travel at each axel when making contact with the frame stops.

If i was in the snow plow buisness I would personally rather have a fiberglass hood r model with the side access panels. Less rust issues and light weight. Not to mention when the plow is off its better access to the engine. Always wondered why peoplem kept buying steel hoods after the fiberglass hoods became standard. Wisconsin dot had a lot of sloped hood rd Mack's with this set up and they seam like they way to go in my book..

Why did they continue to build steel nosed r models after fiberglass became much more popular?

You can do it 2 ways. Run it up to 2100 then shift. It will fall back to around 1300 and start pulling again Or run them up to 1800 then shift. It falls back to 1000 These engines don't pull real hard past 1950. And they make most of their power around 1200rpm... Thats how I drive em

Yea 355 on the west side of the highway. Been there all week...

I saw both of them... Looked fairly clean

Saw a Greco R model today. And a few others

He might be thinking of theorally version 2 stick 6 speed that had a hi and low. It was an overdrive trans if I recall. one reverse, 6 forward speeds, ....start in low 1, 2,3,4, shift to 4hi, 5

Lol....I all honesty i was watching for cops in the construction zone...as soon as I passed you I said dammit he cought me sleeping again....

Serious question about Australia. It looks like its always warm there....do you spec trucks with heaters for the cab? Or is it just for a/c. Always thought the r models with out a under dash heater/AC unit was much nicer for foot room... Your cab looks like it has a smaller under dash unit kida like my truck has... My truck has a heat but no a/c and I have more leg room than guys with both.

Most likely a 237 does it have a turbo but no intercooler? 5 or 6 speed transmission. .. if so its a 237 maxidyne

Mine stays between 180 and 200....stays at 180 in winter even in good pull. .summer time it creeps to 200 and falls back to 190 in hard pull...rarely does it hold anywhere above 195...

Looks like pa hills in the back but the model of tucks says west coast....

Wow...very cool Did Mack continue to produce civilian trucks thru WWII ....or we're they regulated to making what ever the government needed them too...

Times like these when a camelback ant so bad....

I have dual 5" straight stacks and it's not loud in the cab. A single 5" will be slightly louder but if the exit is above the cab you will be fine....I would not go bigger than 5-6" anything larger looks like a cartoon in my opinion. Not to mention the drone and vibration it may have... Also I like a truck that can "throw" the smoke ....the big pipes just look lazy with smoke trickling out...

Before clicking on you tube video make sure you have the rest of the day free and don't mind wearing a big dumb looking smile on your face for the rest of the day! Vinny strap your self in.

I read your last post...unfortunately I haven't been out by my truck in a few weeks... Next time I'm up there I will take some photos of my rs700 mounts for you if no one here does first.

I have some green ones that were a little louse on the toggle...I used some gasket maker to secure them...

Mack diffs normaly have the auto power divider....the advantage to them is that when your driving thru a soft spot in the mud it kicks in on the fly as soon as it detects to much slip....way before you know you need it. It also releases automaticly when it sees normal traction. The down side of this is if it's worn out it may not lock in as quick as needed. For example if your stopped and know you are in the wet grass or mud you may have a little trouble getting started or getting the power divider to kick in. If this is the case this is what you do.. Release the clutch,if the wheels are spinning but truck is not moving, lightly stab the brake pedal and the divider should lock in and transfer power to the wheels with traction. The automatic power divider with camelback springs is one of the best set ups for the off road.

Wow very cool.....always liked those valuliners...I built a model of one as a kid, I thought it looked like a cool r model. I really like the dash layout. Much better than the us models. I like how the gauges are on one panel and switches on the other.....

I saw this one on the south side of Chicago last week

Last week they were filming in the north side of Chicago and down town...