Lmackattack

We always sprayed them down with wd40 or PB....the water,dirt,salt,,, just makes them stick over time....try that first. May want to put some vice grips on the pin and see if you can brake it free....that can be a big part of the problem as well....

Here is a Globeliner.I converted into a cruiseliner. It's sitting on a king hauler frame and I made the cab into a set forward axel and slanted rear wall... The overall bunk size is too large but it is looking the part to the untrained eye. I have battery boxes and air takes yet to install.

I joined a gym about 5 years ago..... Been there 5 times, but the weight never came off? I don't think it's working right?

By the way I already ordered a RS700l cab and hood for my next project.... I started a RS700 cab and chassi years ago but this 3D printing blows away the time it takes to scratch build. I have a spare frame to build it on but it was a cab over frame so I will need to stretch it out to 206 " like my 1:1 truck is

I thought about that but then I need to upgrade my radio to get more channels....some guys like the airplane transmitters with all the toggles and 2 sticks but I hate them when used for cars or trucks etc.... I sw a set up where the gate auto locked when the box just about got to the resting place... Poked like it worked good and No servo was needed. I may try that route for now...

Cab is made by shapeways..http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=Mack&s=0#more-products .just in the last year people have been building more cab options....this cab is a late 60's version but now people have made the +3 cabs,superliner,valuliner,grills all sorts of cool stuff...it's not ready to paint out of the box. Detail is all there but sanding is needed then a good coat of primer build and more sanding. It's better than resin but needs work before paint. It strong and slightly flexible. Looks like its made out of the same plastic PVC is made from? Al .....cab and hood will be green with black nose..silver box...almost like your BCR. The frame is black now but may paint it red down the road. Larry .....I used a cheap 4 channel radio from rc4wd....I use the 4th channel,3 position switch for the transmission shifting, So much better control for shifting..no more gear scratching! If you buy the end point adjustment you just dial in the servo for the 3 shift points and you will shift like a pro.. the 3rd channels 3 position switch is for control of a 2nd speed controller that operates the dump bed. The controller and RX was $85 if I recall...best part is its a rc car style transmitter with a steering wheel ,not the bulky Airplane style.

Been working on this thing on and off for a few years.... Finally got it running and everything works, It's got a 65 turn motor with 3 speed transmission. Scratch built box with a screw drive lift motor. 3d printed cab and hood New drive shafts and locked rear axels. I plan to put it on spoke wheels with a more aggressive tread tire. I can fill the box full of salt and spread it on the driveway. Neighbors look at me like I'm nuts! Need to make a tail gate and figure how I will have it automatically lock as the box lowers... Quick vid of the box operation https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zHxKNvnE-BI

As always... great info...... Thanks for sharing

Air restriction gauge most likely...

I spoke with Rob last week....he is doing well just busy with his shop and life as we all alr.... He said he has had little time for trucks and is going to be a grand dad again.....

Thinking back now how old is BMT?.....I remember finding this site on the old msn group page...think that was about 8 years ago?....Barry and watts mack has done a fine job keeping this fourm going

This is the only trucking fourm that I visit because of the way it's run... We can talk trucks,women,politics and still be friends....only once in a while does someone try to get out of line and when that happens it either settles itself or they get the wrath of us.... If you like wild and crazy forums that anything goes with little moderation check out " the yellow bullet" It can be a soap opera or hell depending on the day....

Yep just put a front mount on, install new intake manafold and run new piping.. You will gain some power by doing this as well...

Again had -15 weather today about -40 with the wind .......never seen my dog piss and shi! At the same time so he can get back in side quicker LOL....

-20 here........wind chill -45 Coldest I can remember in Chicago

I remember those dmm mixers running around... I stood next to one once and was amazed how tall they were... I can only imagine how bad they rode and the blind spot infront of the bumper

can't remember the location buy I recall it being a boat factory before Mack bought it?

Sen them in use . They look like the can move a lot of snow quickly...the ones I saw in use had follow cars to keep idiots from trying to pass them....

If I recall the passenger side air cleaner mounting aera has a steel plate behind the cab sheet metal for reinforcement. You may want to do the same on the drivers side. Also standard r models had an 2" indent on the passenger side to help get the air cleaner from sticking out to far. Most superliner cabs do not have this and the dual air cleaners will sit symmetrical. Not sure if it will be noticeable but just a heads up... Your driver side door will need stops welded to the hinges to prevent the door from opening into the filter housing. and watch your vent window if it can swing open 90 deg as it may make contact even with the stops welded in... If you do it right it will look cool with dual stacks

Congrats Steve.....anyone also notice dan was mentioned with his out back valuliner he imported

Dynamat helps but to get the noise level down you really need a thick pad 1 or 2" thick to go under the floor and of the firewall. We just did a r model that I drive with dynamat on the floor,roof and rear wall. ( still need to do The firewall.) it helped some but it is nowhere near as quiet as my rs700 with a thick insulation pad on the floor and firewall. Search for the stuff used on generator boxes to quiet them down.

I could have used this new form of water repellant the last few weeks....Been nothing but rain,snow,salt and road spray

All depends how pitted or dull they are... If they are scratched to hell you need to sand them first. It's a real pita.....if they are just dull pick up a few cloth buffing wheels and some bars. work your way down with the grit.... Once they are starting to look good hit them with some white diamond and the buffer wheel.... White diamond is the best I have used so far... It does not get hard like the purple stuff does... It just seams more. User friendly especially when your doing it by hand.

Just about everything just depended on what model Mack

500psi...wow! .would have thought 150psi for older early boilers.....