Lmackattack

A friend and me always joked about when we die we would get creamated.then Head over to our old Mack. fire it up, pull the throttle control knob and set it to full RPM, remove the air filter and send us on our way. Dont know if that will ever happen but im pretty sure it will????. On a serious note a will does save the family alot of un answered questions and concerns.

I agree that the small local shops have people that know more and stock more of the "common" items. Places like autozone do ok for the most part but not as good as a Napa or Carquest. I agree with rob that Carquest has more of what I need and they know what it is when I ask. I bought brake parts for my 65 cadillac last month without having to come in and show them what parts I needed. thats service! Trent

Always felt that Mack has fallen short in the HP war. the E9 was the last of the "big dogs" and in todays standards the E9 is outdated (in stock form) I think the MP line is making its way forward but I think there is a few gaps to be filled towards the top of the HP games.

I think the recent reliability issues and lack of O/O in todays market took a toll on CAt truck engine sales. Most fleets I see are running Cummins,mack or DD. See a few fleets sticking with cat but the costs to maintain them are higher

just wait untill I have all the trim rings,and some other stainless trim on the dash. It will stand out from the rest yet have that somewhat stock look. Now all I need is a nice Mack Western "White" steering wheel.

and fyi I took the pic with a long exposure so it looks briter than it is. they really are no briter than a bulb. Should also note that these are "inverted cone" LEDs. this sends the light beam in both a center and outward pattern rather than a common focused light path.

I dont think so. they are LED bulbs that fit in the same sockets and no they dont glare off the glass its just a nice glow. However I made a mistake and bought some LED bulbs that are on/off only, they cant be dimmed, I also bought LED bulbs that can dim with the dash control knob. I will be replacing the ones that dont dim. The ones that do dim can be controled like a normal light bulb. Regardless they add a litte diffrent touch to the truck.

Does mack still sell any FD trucks? or are they all Special order from a outside builder?

Here they are. pics dont do it much justice. but the green looks pretty cool at night.

Not sure about the 675 stamp but IIRC some one said that towards the end of the Hayward plant mack was sending engines out and then they would build them up as needed. Mack had spent alot of useless time and money moving parts to anbd from Hayward. It may have been that they sent out a ENDT675 and then added all the Chargecooling to make it a 300+?. Also could be that the over the trucks life the factory block went bad and parts from a diffrent truck were used? Do you have a build sheet with all the S/N Info? thats where I would start.

Hello. my name is trent and I have been a closet facebooker for 4 years. I think the only reason I joind Facebook is so I could add all the girls I know from school and then search their pictures to see whos still the bad girl whore or the content house wife LOL... I Love it! Herb is on facebook alot. from what he posts he has been working in the shop and trucking everyday.

I think Mark Is correct. Cat will be releasing Vocational Trucks and plan to unvail them in March at the Con Expo Show in Las Vagas. the Joint ventrue between cat and ih tells me that the trucks will look like an IH but with cat logos on them? Should be intresting to see what, if any, noticeable changes were made.

I thought Glider kits got killed off because the truck had to have a engine in it that meet that build years emissions?

If you cant seam to find it with your own eyes You can also use a UV die and black light. Had to do that once on my 65 Cadillac that was leaking oil on around the back of the block..

Tragic in every way. Wonder why that truck did not have time to stop. Tailgating? car did not have brake lights? Speeding?

To replace the rails is a pretty big job. I would remove the box First so you have room to work. then you want to put it on very level ground and use lots of jack stands that can support the weight so the truck and the drivetrain. I would figure 2 guys can get all the bolts out in a day and Hopefully have it ready to pull the following. If you can get stock rails that have the holes pre drilled your golden. If that is the case than all you need to do is remove the bolts slide it out,drill a few holes for any of the aftermarket items. and slide in the new rail. figure a solid week if you can work on it for 8-10 hrs every day and run into few issues. I Never have done a rail job but have taken a truck down to the rails a few times. I think the hardest part will be supporting the truck when the rail is unbolted. Also Check and see if this truck has huck bolts. if it does I cant comment as I have never removed hucks.

I liked the old way. IIRC it was 10 on 8 off and no more than X amount of Hrs in a 6 or 7 day period before you needed a full days rest. Last thing we need is more BS and complacation

I will have to get a pic tomorrow of my dash. I have all my dash gauges back lit with green LED bulbs. Looks pretty slick at night.

Only one strap? Where is the DOT when you need him!

I know at work the air ride trailer has a regulator valve for the bags and I think it says not more than 40psi? But it all depends on the size of the air bag and what it needs to lift. I agree that 75 psi sounds kinda high.

dont you just love electricl problems!!!!

the concave rear wall was for the nose of a trailer. It gave a tighter Bumper to back of cab (BBC) and thus a longer trailer could be pulled. it was all about length laws back then. the dog house is what is used to cover the rear part of the engine if it protrudes into the cab. Chevy/ford vans have the center consol or "Dog house" that can be removed to access the rear of the engine for maintance. that little box on the floor under the seat was for the series/parallel switch. used for the 12volt run/24 volt starting electrical system the B613 should have a "standard" B model cab. for got to add that some B models also used the L model cab. more commonly found out west. Trent

I looked at the pics in your profile and if thats the crack in the rails....that dont look good. sorry to say. Looks like you broke both frame rails in the same spot. thats the worst of the worst. All thats really holding it is the 3rd inner channel. And yea when it lets go that side of the truck will likely sag pretty hard if your loaded. Personaly I would not drive that truck other than on site. and I have been known to be a risk taker....At a minimum you should replace the outter rail but at that rate you might as well replace both while in there. You can jerry rig it to get by for a little bit but it needs attention. The biggest issue I see is that both cracks are in the same spot. the 2 weak spots are in the same location and that 3rd channel is basicly doing all the work. I have seen a few cracked frames that held up just fine in a tractor but they had a inner channel that ran past the crack to the first crossmember on each side of the crack. When I have seen double frames crack it was either the inner or outer rail. not both. If you only had one rail crack you would get by with a good welder and a added "3rd" inner channel ran to the nearest crossmembers each side of the weld. just my .02 Trent

Good Idea to check there. some cabs will differ depending on the model here are a few common diffrences concave rear wall. Diffrent floor hight Dog house in cab firewall also the cowl aera on the passenger side may have some diffrences due to air cleaner mounting and ducting of the air.