Lmackattack

yea thats a good idea to get the sleeve cold so it drops in. just hope the injector hole dont get to tight with it? Over at the railway museum they have to sweat the steel "tires" on the steam locomotive wheels. they have this huge flame ring to heat the steel tire and then they have to quickly drop it on the wheel and hammer it down into place before it cools. Kinda cool to watch.

Just googled her name and she sure was a good looking girl for her day. Im digging her "top heavy" style LOL

Yea. I had made a comment the other day about how silly it is trying to up load a pic. Seams the system cant size it or if you post more than 2 they remove them and put them up as a link only. I feel that when ever were trying to show off or show some pics of trucks you have to go back in time and do it the hard way. I like to open a web page to surf the new content and have the pics pop up as its loading. Its why I rarely link pics over there. to much BS. I will search for Truxnut and will send him a PM

I like the ATHS site better than the old one but think there is much better ones out there. I noticed Frank Surber does not post as much either? John evans, Bill D and a few other names I cant think of are MIA. to bad because When I first joined they had alot to offer us with their rich trucking background

must have missed that day on the ATHS site. what was that all about? John was a great guy was wondering where he went? hate to see the good ones leave.

Last few evenings after work I have spent at the yard redoing the interior of a friends Mack Superliner. Got a nice warm bay to pull it into to work on so its esay. Last night I had Removed all the Door handels, interior panels,headliner rear wall etc... put them in the corner of the shop so I dont louse them. Night was over cleand all the tools up and got her ready to park outside. I Jump in the truck,start it up and back her out. Park her in its spot, set the brake,turn the key to off,pull the throttle stop and kill the big v8. Great. Reach for the door handel..oh um its not there.......... and neither is the other side. oh..*&^%... no window crank hanels either? Ok. vent windows open! crap.... my fat arm can reach the out side door button!!! OK So im sitting there for a min thinking how in the hell did I just do this to myself. look on the floor for anything that I can use to turn the square door handel stub. Nothing, Try and open it with my hand un my pants pocket, nope the keys and tried to sandwich the stub and turn it, nope. So Ireach in my pocket to get my phone to call for help. fumbeling in my pockets I pull out a phone,dollar bill,some change and a 3/8 open end wrench that I mistakenly took home from work. Guess what. that 3/8 wrench fit the square door handel stub like a glove. turn it and Im free! I get out looking to the sky. "THANKS DAD! or whoever told me to take that wrench home". I have locked my self out many of times but never in! Guess there is a first for everthing!

bump!

Name: MACK RS786LST (1977) Date Added: 19 July 2008 - 05:12 PM Owner: Lmackattack Short Description: 1977 Mack RS700L<br />285<br />2 stick 6 speed<br />4.17 rears View Vehicle

I have spread a few loads but I always unlock the gate before lifting. To many times Have I seen a stuck gates and even a few "rocket mans" from a box that was raised with the gate closed.

always liked the looks of them. Kinda like the DM version of Brocakway. Were these the same models used in the Die hard movies?

I see the problem. Yea you need to have a PTO that runs off the Engine revs so that when your in Gear and moving forward the more throttle you give the faster it lifts the box. right now your running the PTO off the transmission gear speed. so when you grab first gear the box is rasing too slow even at full throttel. With the PTO running off the enge RPM You would still use 1st (or 2nd gear) but a properly specd PTO will lift the box faster. PTO gearing will depend on the trans and what kind of pump speed that is needed. TO fast of a pump can blow lines and snap a PTO shaft,gear etc....

Picked up 4 oil temp gauges and have a few questions 1st I need to find sending units for them. My local dealer said the sending units are more than the gauges? (about $55 each) dont need $200 in sending units! anyways does anyone know who makes the mack gauges so I can call them up or does anyone know the ohm range for them? this is for engine,trans,FR tandem, RR tandem oil temps. single wire sendng unit 2nd where are the common locations to instill each sending unit? Trent

never seen that kind of hitch but if you can remove the towed trucks without the need of a machine that would be faster and you could drop it anywhere. that Oshkosh looks like the fleet of Cement trucks that Meyer ran in the 90s. I think they still have a few left. Strong runners and put their DMM macks on a level playing field. I always thought they would be a PITA to see out of with the big hood and sitting that high up? I can rember seeing them all day long near my house.

hard to say.... If im selling something I like to take the first person with cash as he is standing there willing to give me what I want. Some times buyers get cold feet and change their mind in a matter of 5 mins. On the other hand If I said come look at it tomorrow I would not set up any other meetings for other lookers untill after you came to look and made an offer. Trent

Not sure if I follow the question either? sorry... I understand what you want to do is spread a load but dont follow why its not working to your liking? I will take a guess and say that the PTO speed is to slow and the box does not raise as fast as you need it to spread the load?

HA HA... thats a great story... Bet you and the parts guy wont ever forget that one!

Randy the more ideas the better. as you know sometimes its a trio of attemps with diffrent ideas. I should note I cant take credit for the slide hammer trick as a old school Mack tech told me about it.

Im sure its just the TV hype. Cant have a show about work and every thing goes smooth without drama.... I work in auto racing and if you watched some of the event previews on TV you would swear that its all louse women walking around half naked, every body just won the lotto, money is no object, and you stay out all night with the crews. NOT!!!!! Not many girls come to races(unless with their boyfriend), I dont own a money tree, we try not to crash because cars are expenicive and Im in the hotel most night by 8PM...after a quick stop at taco bell..... You get my point LOL!!!

when I did the injectors in my 2 Valve I had 2 stuck injectors. If I recall I had to make a slide hammer tool to thread onto the injector. Also you may need to heat the area near the injector so it expands. When I did it I would get the truck up to temp and then started slide hammering. I even went as far as backing the hold down nuts off a little and then ran the truck at hi idel to let the Internal presser help push them free.I Like PB blaster for rusty or stuck boltes. The issue is that it needs to get down in the hole to lousen it. some times the holes are rusted to the point that you cant get the fluid down in there. They can be a PITA so go slow and work them out fyi.... When you put the new ones in use antiseize!!!

as you instructor noted you should listen to the engine. Under stand that when the truck is in motion the trans and rear ends are always spinning in sync with each other. So apon a shift change the revs will need to match each other when you shift to a diffrent gear. If you are up shifting the engine will need to drop a few hundreed RPM to catch the trans in the next higher gear. Down shifting your doing the same thing but have to rase engine RPMs. When learning its best to have a slight load on the truck/trailer so that it maintains its speed thru the gear change. This way you dont louse road speed and further complacate the shifting. also learn on flat roadway as hills will allow the truck to change speeds also. I learned to shift with no clutch and find using the clutch for shifting is harder. Upshifting RPMs should be no more than 1500RPM so that when you find the next lower gear, your RPMS wont exceed Max engine RPM. Lower the RPM the smoother the shift. try down shiftin at 1200RPM and see how that goes. the process......lift up on the throttel to put slack in the trans, lightly pull on the stick and it will come out of gear as soon as you have slack place stick to next lower gear, as you are moving the stick to the next lower gear you will need to raise about 300RPM to catch the lower gear. For starts, slowly raise the RPM to get a feel of the grind just before it falls into the lower gear. you may need to "float" the RPM untill you find the correct RPM for the gear. as you get better you will be able to stab the throttel quickly to get the fast raise of the RPMs and find the gear. with everthing start slow and understand what all is going on to make the shift. When you get a feel for things it starts to become smoothe For smooth up shifting and trying to impress the instructor I suggest you rev up to around 1600RPM and as you are about to lift off the throttle,slightly pull on the stick so it comes out of gear smoothly. move stick to the next higher gear, press on that gear lightly and feel the "grind". as you reduce pedal on the throttel the RPMs will drop, as they drop the stick will fall softly into the next gear. When ever you have light presser on the stick waiting to find the next gear you will feel a slight grind in the wrist, but thats ok, as long as you cant hear it.Go slow and get a feel for the gears and how the revs make the stick feel right before it goes in. after you understand what it feels like when the revs are to high or to low you can focus on timing the shifts so that there is no grind at all. you simply will be timing the gear changes with the sound of the engine and will start to get good at it. when learning I think that slight soft grinds (only felt in the wrist) is perfectly fine because you get a feel for what the trans is doing and what too hi or too low of a RPM feels like. however you never want to pull hard on the stick because when it does get close to the right RPM it will jam it into gear and can damage things. Mack transmissions are diffrent than others. I drive both and have a hard time jumping back and forth. been doing this for a while and I still make mistakes so dont feel bad. just that you are asking for helps shows you want to learn correctly and that says alot about you. Hope this helps and good luck! Trent

I carry all the tools I need except the ones I will need when I brake down....

I just put new carpet, dynamat, and a damper pad in my RS. you will laugh but I used a rubber backed doorway mat. just cut it to size and it looked stock. I traced it out of the old rubber mat so everthing lined up. Cost me about $60. I think it was a 5'x 5' mat. the RW im working on has carpet as well what I found odd was it had this 1/2 pad under it that was glued to the floor. think it was for vibration and sound control.

that will look real nice Larry. I like your idea of following the angel brace of the rear cab wall. it will keep the strength and look just like some of the early "walk in" style sleepers. How are you goining about hooking up the shower and toilet?????? still planning on the fridge and flat screen cabel TVs??????

Like I said over at the ATHS..... I will check the yard when I have day light. I dont get to the yard on weekdays untill after 6pm and by then its dark and I cant see in the containers.

A great looking Superliner! looks about a 195"-200" WB? lots of aluminum. is the cab on air ride?