Lmackattack

it all depends on the type of 5th wheel you have. Do you know what model 5th wheel it is? My Fontain no slack does not have jaws. it simply has a bar that slides in behind and a wedgethat follows it to keep presser on the back of the pin. Others use Jaws that grab from each side. Most of the trucks I drove you could never see the king pin when hitched. If you did see the king pin it was thru a 1/4" gap in the jaws. I have also seen plates that had a "C" cut out of 1" steel that would swing around and grab the pin from the backside. Give us a pic of the wheel and we may shed a little more on what it is. Regarding the bolt that sticks out from the front...If its the style plate I think it is.... That should be your adjustment bolt. When unhooked that bolt is sticking out about 5" in front of the plate. then when you hook to a trailer you should see it pulled in and resting up against the plate. If you back into a trailer and can see that the bolt is not against the plate thats a sign that it did not fully latch. But again lets see the 5th wheel and we could note what it is and how it latches Trent

yep and every truck may be a little diffrent. Lucky for me all the dump trailers I pulled leaked a little hyd fluid and made that 5th wheel nice and slick. One thing on my Fontain "no slack" is the release handel has a "Stop" rod along its bottom part of the shaft. If pulled straight out it will hit the bottom backside of the hole that the rod comes thru and stop its outward movement. So you have to put some upward motion into the pull to release the pin.Its kinda a fail safe design. even if the jaws did not lock the trailer fully the release shaft will stop when the rod hits the stop plate and hold the jaw mostly closed so the trailer cant come off. I only found that out after trying to pull the "stop" rod thru 3/4" steel for about 10 mins LOL!!

Some old PB blaster will help get that lube into the places that thicker grease wont. Spray it on the under side to get the jaws,springs,bushings and other locking parts lubed. My wheel was dry when I got the truck and it needed some grease to move freely. Also look at the king pin plate to make sure the trailer is not the cause. seen a few old trailers that were well rusted around the plate. the king pin was pushed upward a little and it was trying to pull up on the 5th wheel/jaws.

I think watts mack has the heater ducts for sale.

Yea. push back on the trailer before you get out to try to pull the handel. if its still tight set the trailer brakes and push on the trailer then let the truck come to a rest with "slack" in the fith wheel. if the wheel is tight find someone to pull the pin while rocking back and forth. then put lost of grease in it for the next time

Drove a few 427s and I know what you mean with the no power down low,power at the top 200 RPM, then you have to shift and it falls on its face again. Truck will accel but you just cant feel any powerband. Never liked that engine.

That mack is known as a DMM. Its an all wheel drive model. lots of them with 3 sticks in the cab. I remember down in FL there was a fleet of dark Blue and white DMMs real clean looking cement trucks. they are a beast. look at the filler panels on the fenders

Just got off the phone with a friend. He knows the past and current owener of the superliner I just went to look at.Said its not the same owners of the RS But he remberes the RS700L from 25-30 years ago. He discribed it to the "T". Said he saw it many of times running up and down RT12 near Round lake IL. He Does not know where it went or the owner but said he will ask around as its kinda a small town around here. Trent

Just went over and looked. This was an early 80s superliner 1 has a simmalar paint job but it has the name Bonke on the door. its red with tan or white stripes. I think a local contruction friend asked me once if my RS was owned by that guy. I called him but no answer. he is older than me and may have some info on the guy? Trent

Rob had mentiond he saw this truck in a Mag but it had a smaller sleeper on it. I think He Stretched the truck for the larger sleeper. I will take a ride over to where I think he parkes his superliner??? its a few miles away. WIll check the name on the door. It hasent moved in 6 years. Its red but has a simmilar paint job...back in 20 mins~!!!!!

I live in Round lake IL..................

Mark, there was a guy up my way that had a RS700 like that. He sold it for a superliner. I think ROb knows about that truck?. this one looks simmilar to the one he knows about...Im sure he will see this thread and can comment........

THAT BLACK ONE IS MY STYLE!. I think the first red one could louse alot of the little crome bits and it would look nice. the interior is also a little overdone but again you can see that they made it into a show truck. If I hade one that flashy I would not want to get it dirty in the mud. EDIT!!!!! wait wait wait... Do I spy a pete frame under that black one?????

MY thoughts are that anything that upgrades the truck to ride and last longer is ok. Im not big into putting a old mack on a new pete frame but a old mack onto a new mack frame is ok. Air ride will not only help with the ride but it puts less stress on the truck. air bags take alot of shock out of everthing from axels,frame to the cab. I upgraded the interior of MY RS so that it has more comfort and style. Nothing wrong with the old cab but it was just plane,noisy and cold. I think it looks and feels personalized to my style.I also will be adding a air ride cab for both the comfort and reduced shock of the cab. It may not be Factory but if done right it can "look the part" Trent

yea the new electronic engines seam to start very easy in cold weather. So long as they still have good compression. The company 3406E has always started here in this cold chicago winter weather. I plug it in when I know I need to start it but some times we just need it moved and she always fires after no more than 5 sec of cranking. I fired up a superliner with E9 this morning and was suprised she took off running smooth after just 3-4 sec or cranking. the engine was rebuilt recently tho...

I have used WD40. Always had to remove the fileters tho. It works almost as good as either if you can get it to mist. Either in low doses works good. to much and it knocks way to hard. What I like to do with either on a hard starting engine is to spray it into the air system after the filter. Jump in the truck and crank the engine with the throttel stop out. as soon as the either lites push in the throttel stop and most times the engine will catch. This way you dont get a huge spray of either and fuel at the same time. I have found that if you flood the cold engine with fuel and either it wont want to lite. and if you over fuel and spray it..... when it does lite it takes off reving way to fast.

its possible that you have dirt or a clogged air line. it may take more time to fill the parking system or you have a slight leak? IIRC all the parking system does is push back on the springs to keep them released. There also may be a Anti Compounding valve? that may give you the same issue. I dont recall how that valve is plumbed but its used in alot of spring brake air systems

Will get more pics in the day time. Im waiting for some new gauge covers, and emblem tags for the 4 diffrent temp gauges. After I get those in a quick wipe with armorall and she will shine!

been working on the interior of the cab the last few months. Lots of Rewireing stuff and cutting out the spliced in wires. This truck had that goofy 121 Antilock braking system that used alot of air switches, signal switches sencors etc... lots of wires that were un plugged and left louse. So now was a good time to zip tie them up in bundels and tuck them away. while I was back in there I decided to change out the wood grain switch panel so it matched the other 2 panels that had the black textured look.I had painted the wood grain panel black but you could see that they did not match...it always bothered me! I installed the dash turn signal indacators, new switches for the marker and head lights. re wired alot of the gauge bulbs. once I got that done I thought it would look cool to have some oil temp gauges. cut the large panel to accept the temp gauges and wired them up. All I need to do now is screw in the sending units and run the signal wire to a fire wall 4 post junction block. I found some gauge covers that fit nicely but need a few more. also need a gauge for the open hole. Think I will use a clock or a air restriction gauge. While having all this fun I made a new air horn chain from Bull dogs Leash (he wont mind) while making the air horn chain I installed a Headliner that a Fellow BMT member let me pull from a old valueliner.

been working on the interior of the cab the last few months. Lots of Rewireing stuff and cutting out the spliced in wires. This truck had that goofy 121 Antilock braking system that used alot of air switches, signal switches sencors etc... lots of wires that were un plugged and left louse. So now was a good time to zip tie them up in bundels and tuck them away. while I was back in there I decided to change out the wood grain switch panel so it matched the other 2 panels that had the black textured look.I had painted the wood grain panel black but you could see that they did not match...it always bothered me! I installed the dash turn signal indacators, new switches for the marker and head lights. re wired alot of the gauge bulbs. once I got that done I thought it would look cool to have some oil temp gauges. cut the large panel to accept the temp gauges and wired them up. All I need to do now is screw in the sending units and run the signal wire to a fire wall 4 post junction block. I found some gauge covers that fit nicely but need a few more. also need a gauge for the open hole. Think I will use a clock or a air restriction gauge. While having all this fun I made a new air horn chain from Bull dogs Leash (he wont mind) while making the air horn chain I installed a Headliner that a Fellow BMT member let me pull from a old valueliner.

one thing I liked about the older Mack transmissions is that they had a positve feel for the gear change. its like a light switch. your in or out. if you miss you get a scratch. it was hard to "bang into gear" you really needed to force the stick in if your revs were off. This new Junk if your just a few RPM off it will give a split sec scratch, fall into the gate and "bang" into the gear. even with gentel stick Presser its very unforgiving. Sometimes you think your Reved matched and "Bang" I find myself then trying to go easy and you still will meet resistance.

the first few years of my Driveing career all I drove were 237/5 speed, 285/6speeds or 300/6speeds. First time I got into a truck with a 13 speed or 18 speed. I found myself shifting way to slow. In the big city I love the 5 and 6 speeds as you dont have to shift as much putting along in traffic. For the big road I liked the 9 and 12 speed macks as you could maintain a faster road speed pulling the grades

Never herd of that trailer company? I checked TruckPaper to see if I could find one, Had no luck tho?

TRUE. I dont know what the exact rules are for spring or non spring brakes. Regardless It would not stop me im just a law braking trucker

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!